@Cassie (8b Southern AZ, high desert) Hi Al, do you normally use the ring or the tourniquet method when you air layer your ficus plants? Or do you do a combination of both (you mentioned using a tourniquet and blanching part of the stem/branch?)? It would depend on the Ficus species. For most Ficus, I propagate by cuttings, because I've found that under mist or in a humidity chamber, you can start some really thick cuttings of many ficus species (3"+). This image of F salicifolia was a cutting started from the top of a much larger tree. Same tree as above - first pruning after rooting ^^^. Ficus microcarpa cutting ^^^ in process of rooting - note new buds opening. Removing the tops of trees in training is sort of a way to create an almost instant bonsai. Once the tree is fully rooted. a little wiring to reposition branches will turn it into a 'believable' tree, resembling something one might see in nature. If we take the misting and high humidity out of the equation, I prefer ringing the plant; however, even when I use the ring method, I often use a tourniquet immediately below the top of the ring. While I'm thinking of it, the rule of thumb for the ht of the ring is, it should be at least 1/5x the diameter of the branch/ trunk being layered. Also, when you peal the bark back on many species of trees, a very thin layer of vascular cambium usually remains attached to the sapwood beneath it. It is crucial to remove that white/tan layer of tissue as part of the layering process. I'm guessing my reason for layering is probably going to differ from yours. Most plants I layer is because they are seedlings, and as such have a very ugly root system. Strong roots that radiate horizontally away from the trunk and a trunk flare at the base of the tree eventually become a critical consideration for almost every bonsai enthusiast who has practiced bonsai for more than a decade. Eventually, we develop the idea that everything we do should focus on bringing out the tree's best potential, even if we are not the owner who sees it realized. Often, that will result in trees in training for 20 years before they even see a bonsai pot. I couldn't even guess at the number of times I've been a part of brain-storming over a tree, my own or someone else's, and making radical changes that turn a tree which is an acceptable specimen in its own right, back into a bonsai in training for the sole reason a better way to bring out the tree's potential was discovered. The image below is a Trident maple which was air-layered off of it's original set of roots which were way to ugly for my purposes. I used only the ring method for this tree (wire still attached if you look closely). Notice how the roots are almost perfectly spaced (some incongruity adds to the appeal of living plants) and radiating away from the trunk. That is what I was after. The tree below is a Korean hornbeam, and 3-image sequence below shows first what a tree's seedling roots usually look like. Many growers work hard at trying to get these roots straightened around, but I have learned better results cam be had in far less time and with less effort, bu layering the plant off of its old roots. This is one way of using the tourniquet method (below), which takes much longer than ringing/ girdling or a combination of a tourniquet and ringing/ girdling. With a tourniquet, as the diameter of the trunk increases the vascular cambium is compressed as the tourniquet tightens. This 'chokes off' downward movement of photosynthate (the plant's food) and auxin, the hormone that stimulates root development and branching. With food and a surplus of the tree's natural rooting hormone accumulating immediately above the tourniquet, you can be quite certain of a plethora of roots emerging within a short vertical space. With an understanding of the tree's wounding response, I deduced that drilling holes with a 3/16 brad-point drill turned with my fingers and filled with a insoluble rooting gel should help coax the tree into producing an exceptional root base. The roots in the first image (of the trident maple) are the result of this method. Ring + tourniquet method ^^^ BTW - I no longer use zip ties as a tourniquet as they sometimes fail/ break - especially on thick layers on branches/ trunks larger than 1". I use 2-3 wraps of aluminum bonsai wire in size 2-3mm with the ends twisted tight with pliers. The wraps should touch each other, which forces all rooting to occur above the layer. What type of soil do you use when you air layer, since you don't use sphagnum moss? I'm assuming this is one of the few times you want something moisture retentive - do you use a regular potting soil? Peat moss? Seed starting mix? I usually use gritty mix for just about everything I use a pot to layer. Below, there are 2 things going on. I had just finished establishing an air layer on the hornbeam in the background and I was working on pruning 2 China dolls and 2 asparagus ferns. I was layering the hornbeam because the trunk was much too long/ tall given the thickness of the trunk, so the best way to shorten the trunk was to layer it off of it's old roots and start a new root system higher up. The top of the ring cut is at approximately the ht of the duct tape holding the pot together. Below, is a hackberry tree being layered. You can see the gritty mix in the pot This is the same hackberry, same summer, after being separated from the mother plant. In case you noticed, it's planted deep on purpose. I will let it grow wild (almost completely unpruned) and begin work on it in spring of '24. And last question (for now!), what time of year do you typically start your air layering? Spring. I like to have them separated by the end of July. Do you try to time it to plant the new plant in June, or is some other time preferable? If we're still talking about Ficus, spring will always be the best time. If I was layering, I would start the layer on Ficus just before or when I move them outdoors. They really start to want to grow then, so we might as well take advantage of the tree's natural inclinations. I'm wondering if it's better to start the process in June, since you're effectively pruning the parent plant, which would put separating the new plant sometime in August? Geography plays an important role in deciding what the best timing is. I bet you would be fine starting your layers in early May, especially if your plants are outdoors. Then, you should have no problem separating in July-August. Thanks in advance! (And I suppose apologies for resurrecting an old thread, but made more sense in my mind than starting a fresh one and linking back here). No worries. Things are slow on the forum and my wife is recovering from some recent surgery, so I have to be home and indoors for a few more days, it looks like. I'm glad for the opportunity to kill some of the time it always seems so important to save. ;-) Al

I did some fig green-wood air-layering in the past. Only because the tree was either too small (lack of preferred old-wood) and/or it was a precious/rare tree. Sometimes, I even air-layered just the growing tip. I use either Gene's peat-moss seed-pellet method if the twig is thin, or rooter-pots if the twig is fat. In both cases, I left the rooting medium visible (plastic) so that I can watch the roots. Do not girdle - green wood snaps off very, very easily. Support the air layered branch and tie it to a stake. This prevents snapping by any wind and also prevents the rooter-pot from moving around relative to the twig (bad news for any developing tender roots). Be patient! I think green wood takes longer to root. After that, let the roots develop well before cutting. To give you an idea, old wood takes ~4 weeks to root, while green wood may take twice as long. Depending on the root/leaf ratio, a humidity dome may also help after cutting the twig. Pot in the shade. George (NJ).

1/4 to 1/2 inch in diameter, maybe a little larger -preferably woody. Take a 1 gallon pot and make a cut down one side from the top to the bottom. I usually extend the cut into one of the drainage holes which is usually larger than the diameter of the branch I want to airlayer. Wrap the pot around the branch so that the branch is passing thru that drainage hole. Then tape the cut pot wall on the inside then on the outside.(I use duct tape). Reinforce it real well with tape. Fill the entire pot with moist potting soil and pack it down firmly down to the bottom of the pot. Keep packing in the soil until you get to within an inch of the top of the pot. Water it well and let the water soak in the packed soil. Then ball up some plastic bags from the super market and pack them up on top of the soil in the pot to fill that 1 inch gap. This will keep the soil from drying out too fast. Secure the plastic with some foil or tape or rubber bands. Each week, take the plastic bags out to check the moisture in the soil. If still wet, replace the plastic bags. If dry, sprinkle some water on to of the soil and let it soak up, then place the plastic back on top. You should have roots in 3-5 weeks. Now here's the great trick about doing this in a pot versus a plastic bag. Since it's so late in the season, just keep that pot in place until the tree goes dormant. Keep checking the moisture of the soil in the pot. Don't allow the soil to go dry or else the roots will die. After the entire tree goes dormant, separate the potted airlayer and store it where it won't freeze. You've got a potted tree ready to repot into a larger pot in the spring.

Pj, it sounded like you tried many methods but NOT air layering, which is well described on this site in other posts. In your case I would have taken cuttings, put them in barely moist towelling in a zip-lock and put them in the vegetable crisper of the fridge for a week. This puts them into dormancy. When they come out of the fridge, I would forget the baggie method for rooting and put them into a very well drained light potting medium (barely moist) in 16 oz plus clear plastic cups with drain holes. Put them on a warming tray covered with a plastic dome to keep humidity high. Your climate may already do both of these 'warm and moist' stages for you. When I do this method, I can usualy see good root development in a couple of weeks as well as budding and leafing out. Don't be in a rush to transplant, and remember that excess of water is a killer at this stage. Air layering works fine too, you just have to be patient, but you can do it anytime. However, it may take months for the branch to throw out roots, or just weeks. You could also try ground layering too if you have branches close to ground and can pin or weight them there for some time. My two cents... John.