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Solid surface vanity top

6 years ago

My DD's 5x12 bathroom is gutted (by previous owners) and is slated to be our next project.

The 60" vanity has a solid surface top which looks good and is simple looking. I was thinking about putting a small pony wall next to it (between vanity and toilet), but the top has an integrated backsplash foe thr back and right side where it meets the wall. So it does not have a side splash for where it will meet the pony wall. I have not been able to find any pictures to see if it will look silly. Does anyone have any opinions?

We're very handy, and DH does a lot of woodworking so reworking things is not an issue.

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Comments (10)

palimpsest
6 years ago
Are the back and side splash integral to the countertop?
mayflowers
6 years ago
I was thinking about adding a pony wall a few months ago but I decided I'd just do a deeper vanity to accomplish the same thing. Here's the discussion and some photos.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/4553946/does-a-half-wall-make-sense-here
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What about checking with area stone fabricators for any granite or quartz remnants? I imagine you could get one templated and installed fairly quickly and inexpensively if one has a stone on hand that you like. They'd need your undermount sink to do the proper cut out. I was pleasantly surprised at how inexpensive for the quality our Toto Rendevouz sinks were. Our local plumbing supply store stocked them. The big box stores would also stock a selection of undermount sinks of course. We paid about $85 each for our Toto Rendevouz sinks, with Sanagloss (Love!) The price without our contractors' discount would have been about $115, as I recall. We're going with a quartz remnant from a fabricator who said he could get it to us within a week of templating. He's charging $900 for an 85" vanity with two sink cut-outs and backsplash.
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Well, you either like the matte finish of Corian/Swanstone or not, I guess. We love it, and our 20-yr old Swanstone integrated vanity still looks new despite hard usage. As you like a glossier surface, you might want to look into cultured granite. Available at most cultured marble shops, it has more particulate in the resin, but because of the clear gelcoat has a slightly glossier appearance than Corian/Swanstone, although it looks so similar most people who see our CG double vanity think it's Corian. Wears very well (of course, absolutely no abrasives used or needed) and is quite cost-effective. Colors vary from one vendor to another, so if you don't see exactly the color you want, shop around. You can see from the reflections on the counter that the surface is definitely glossier than Corian/Swanstone's matte finish, although it's not a super-high gloss finish. Our master bath is a very narrow rectangle so it's hard to get a good shot of everything. This is the best I have of the sinks, unfortunately. It's a tan cultured granite that matches the neo-angle showerpan and surround. Hope this helps!
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This is a well-planned vanity/mirror/window layout. Your drawer base needs to be the same width as the window--right now it stops several inches from the window molding, making the backsplash look funky. But going to the end of the molding means the shower curtain is going to be even more pinched. I would measure the distance from the window molding to the edge of the tub surround. The window being so close to the tub/shower is throwing off the balance, so don't just focus on the mirror side or you won't be much ahead. This vanity looks balanced because the sink base is much wider than the drawer base. The sink is the focal point, as it should be. The larger mirror gives additional prominence to the sink area. It's not competing in size and shape with the window. With a large mirror, you can mount your sconces through the mirror for the best task lighting. But you may have to do an overhead light. I would move the outlet anyway. So now you need a plumber and an electrician. I think what's going to make this all work is if you can fit a larger sink base to the left of the window, which I have my doubts. If you just replace that vanity with a longer one, you'll get a better mirror placement but it will still look jammed in there unless the vanity is planned for the space. You're talking custom to do it right.
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Is your top cultured marble? If so, for a 1/4”, I would use a router.
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Iowacommute
Original Author
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
The back is integrated, but the right is caulked on. It looks like the plain, off white color I usually see at big box stores.

Your thread is interesting Mayflowers. We need to reuse the vanity which is also regular kitchen cabinet depth. I just remeasured the bathroom and including drywall and counter overhang there will be 13" left when measuring 18" from the center of the toilet.

We also do not have a linen closet on this level, but then we only have one kid. I came to the conclusion after reading the pony wall thread to keep the wall low and just past the depth of the vanity because of room width. I was thinking I could have shelves on the toilet side and that would hold all of the TP (we go to Costco).

The bathroom also has two doors, one to the hallway and the other is close to the tub leading to her room which is just about across from the toilet. There is just enough space for two towel hooks between the shower and door.

I was also thinking about floating shelves or a train rack to go over the toilet for extra towels.

Will 13" to the vanity look silly or seem more spacious?
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
6 years ago
How about a floor-to-ceiling cabinet instead of the pony wall?
palimpsest
6 years ago
Since the side is caulked on get another piece fabricated for the new side.
mayflowers
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Is it a double sink vanity? If so, you need a side splash, but you could tile the pony wall as shown in my thread. For a single sink, I'd remove the side splash.

I considered making my pony wall from cabinetry using RTA cabinets. You could install a pull-out, like the ones used in kitchens. You'd have room to do a 12" pull-out for TP, with tall bottles on the bottom shelf. I got the idea from mongo's vanity.

Vanities and mirrors · More Info
Iowacommute
Original Author
6 years ago
I'm still thinking about the tall cabinet because that would give us lots of storage. Do you think it would be worth it to slide over the vanity and put the tall cabinet next to the wall so it doesn't cut up the room?

It is a single sink vanity with the sink in the middle. I love Mongo's vanity.
mayflowers
6 years ago
Yes, it's worth it if you want to move plumbing. How wide would the linen cabinet be?
Iowacommute
Original Author
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
If we were going to buy one I think 12" is the the standard correct? I guess we could also make a closet out of drywall but maybe an actual cabinet would be nicer?
mayflowers
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
It wouldn't hold towels--you need at least 15" for that. Without linen space, I'd find it hard to fill a 12" floor to ceiling cabinet. It might look too skinny too.

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