I don't think it's accurate to sell a specific grade of rooting hormone for the divisions of plants you mentioned, because different plant species respond to different chemicals, whether we are cloning hardwood, summerwood, or herbaceous/tip cuttings. Even though it's generally true that the most effective concentration levels normally vary and can be roughly grouped by the 3 types of cuttings you mentioned, the most effective chemical to use varies and can be much more important than concentration levels; so, it is a combination of the concentration AND the choice of chemical that determines the effectiveness of a rooting chemical. The rooting aids are synthesized forms of the plant hormone/growth regulator 'auxin'. Indole butyric acid (IBA) and naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) are the two most common chemicals that have been found to be reliable in the promotion of rooting in cuttings. IBA is widely applied in general use because it is non-toxic to most plants over a wide range and promotes root growth in a large number of plant species. Some plants respond better to either IBA or NAA, some respond to ONLY one or the other, some may have a toxic reaction to one but not the other which will lead to poor or no growth and actually, mortality; and some respond best to combinations of both chemicals, or to other variations of either IBA or NAA based on K (potassium). Both IBA and NAA are commonly available in talc or in liquid formulations of varying concentrations. I do LOTS of propagating of several hard-to-root species, but only use a rooting aid occasionally for the most difficult. As a generalization, You should know on a per plant basis which chemical and concentration is most apt to be effective before applying it. I have found it mostly unnecessary. Learning a little about the cultural conditions cuttings prefer and some other tricks (like methods of wounding) along with cleanliness will add more to what it takes to be successful at propagating (plants) than rooting aids (except in the very hard to root plants). Al

Of course! Why wouldn't they be? If you're worried about it, however, next time just use pure honey instead of rooting hormone. To make rooting hormone soak the yellow-tipped shoots of a weeping willow tree in water. A tea made from the bark of a willow tree is also effective. When using the shoots or bark soak them for 24 hours prior to using. Rooting hormone is usually sold as indole butyric acid (IBA). It simply encourages the cuttings to form new roots.

It won't hurt the plant. As long as the powder/liquid/gel does not touch the leaves, all is okay. Just an FYI, I don't use rooting hormone anymore UNLESS I am having great trouble rooting a certain plant. Most of mine have rooted on their own within 3-10 days. Another FYI...you can make a really cheap and effective rooting hormone using aspirin or honey. And both have desirable properties to them (antifungal/antibacterial/stress reducing). Recipe for honey rooting hormone: 2 cups water 1 tablespoon honey Boil water and add honey. Let cool. Once cooled, dip cutting in solution. Place in potting mix. Recipe for aspirin water: 1 or 2 - 250mg. UNCOATED aspirin pills (you can use 2, if just 1 does not seem to be working) 1 gallon water Boil water and cool until it is warm enough to touch (don't let it get completely cool, warmth helps pill dissolve) Place warm water in 1 gallon jug with lid. Add pill(s), put lid on and shake! I also use aspirin water on sulking plants and cuttings. Seems to help them feel better.

The most efficient all round rooting preparation is IBA at 4,000 parts per million in 50% alcohol. The gels like clonex are ok in the short term but once opened being water based, will support the growth of bacterial 'blobs' which soon break down the active component. Also light, either sunlight or artificial light will render IBA ineffective in a very short time & is much more critical than temperature. So store your rooting preparations completely dark at room temperature & only dispense a small amount to use, also discard it after use & never return it to the main container as it will rapidly lose its effectiveness due to being contaminated. You can buy such preparations over the counter but it is much more economical & reliable to make your own & is relatively inexpensive especially if several friends share the cost. So to make it up you buy IBA ....Indole-3-butyric acid from a chemical supply house. Mix one gram in 125ml of alcohol, the denatured alcohol used in the household will do (so long as it is only ethanol & contains no methanol) & when completely dissolved add 125ml of clean pure water & you have 250ml of 4,000 ppm in 50% alcohol rooting mixture. This can be used to treat hardwood cuttings, softwood cuttings, air layers etc. There's generally no need to dilute the mixture, you just adjust the length of time you dip the cuttings depending on the 'softness' of the cutting material & the required stimulation. I have been using this mixture for almost 40 yrs & have had only excellent results. The standard test to see if your hormone mixture is working is to cut some tomato leaves.....yes just whole leaves cut near the stem, dip them for 5 seconds & plant as cuttings either in mist/fog or under a plastic bag. At the same time plant a similar number of untreated whole tomato leaves & wonder at the difference! Tomato are particularly sensitive to these rooting preparations & the leaf will be a mass of roots within a couple of weeks if your mixture is active. Of course the tomato leaf will never throw a shoot & will just remain a leaf with roots though sometimes they will live for months & thicken up & show every sign of growing but without buds never can! & yes try never to get any of these materials on your skin or breathe in the vapor as they are highly bio active, easily absorbed & may affect living cells both of plants & animals. Just another point gleaned from a lifetime of plant propagation: when treating most cuttings (maybe except very soft material) plant them in moist medium & mist the leaves if they are softwood cuttings but don't water in until the following day. If you water in the freshly treated cuttings immediately you will be diluting the hormone on the stems & reducing its effectiveness. With hardwood cuttings of course it isn't necessary to mist them as one day before watering in wont matter if the medium is moist.