Help me decide between these two floorplans - Fischer Homes
Brian Ohio
6 years ago
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Anglophilia
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Please help me decide between these two pulls...
Comments (33)Could I trouble those of you with these lovely Revitalize pulls for pictures from a little further back, in context with surrounding cabinets? One of my issues is sizing; most of my drawers are 30 - 36" wide so I have to consider paying up for long ones or putting pairs on each drawer. I was sure I wanted Candler but the linked picture of them installed, and the feel in my hand, has caused me to re-evaluate. They seem "thick" looking, and when I used them at the model they were also less comfortable than Revitalize. When I opened drawers with Revitalize, my hand naturally fell so that my thumb was on the angled part - do you use them that way IRL? Here is a link that might be useful: not a fan of this look!...See MoreHelp with kitchen design, trying to decide between two layouts
Comments (79)You know, I agree with you that the island perpendicular to the window wall doesn't feel as right as the island parallel to the window wall. Interesting. I stopped and thought about why that would be. My first thought was that, with the island perpendicular to the window wall, the end of the island closest to the living room now feels as if it's intruding into the walkway between the kitchen and living room. Even though the island ends in line with the side of the fridge closest to the living room, the island still feels as if it's intruding. However, when I look at the island parallel to the window, I also think the end of the island closest to the dining room feels as if it is intruding into the dining room. Even though the island ends in line with the side of the perimeter cabinet closest to the dining room, the island still feels as if it's intruding. So when you're standing in the living room, you like the perpendicular-to-the-window-wall island orientation less (because the island feels as if it's intruding towards you). And when you're standing in the dining room, you'll like the parallel-to-the-window-wall island orientation less (because the island feels as if it's intruding towards you). Given all that, I actually think this shape island (posted earlier upthread) feels the best from both perspectives: That is because the island is completely and clearly inside the invisible borders of the kitchen as delineated by the side of the fridge closest to the living room and the side of the perimeter cabinet closest to the dining room. A square (ish) island doesn't even touch the borders -- it's well inside them by a foot or two, making it impossible for the island to feel as if it's intruding into another room. This home layout is so open that it lacks some of the normal cues (walls/doorways/floor changes) marking where the kitchen ends and another room begins. So in this island's case, a setback from the technical kitchen border helps to clarify things. The island's definitely in the kitchen and only in the kitchen. Here is an edited version that stops the island a foot or two short of the borders in both directions: I'd recommend having seating just on the living room side of the island. Seating on the dining room side puts those chairs back to back with dining room chairs, and I always think that looks/functions a bit oddly....See MoreKitchen layout help please. Deciding between two.
Comments (12)"...The kitchen is on the back corner of our house and is a new build..." Is the entire house a new build or just the Kitchen? (It says "Existing Family Room", so I assume this is an addition, not a whole-house new build.) Assuming it's just the Kitchen, where exactly is the "new build" vs the existing footprint? How flexible are you? ++++++++++++++++++++++++ Some things to keep in mind: Aisles around the table...You will need to devote quite a bit of space to provide sufficient aisle space around the table. The presence of the door on the far right and the "desk" area will be an issue b/c you really need at least 54" b/w the table and the "desk" to allow someone to be one or the other and still get by. 60" would be better b/c you could potentially have seating at both. If that door will seldom be used, 54" will be fine. However, if that will be your only access to a backyard or deck (and it looks like it is), plan for it to be very busy when your children are playing as well as when you have company/parties and the outside is included (grilling, etc.). You will probably only need for 48" b/w the door and the table. I think you can get away with no more than 48" b/c the door is offset on the wall and the table will only overlap the door a little - it's not fully blocking the door - assuming the side that opens is on the right, not the left. If it's on the left, then you may need more b/c now the table will be fully blocking the door. What do you need? When there's no traffic behind the seats, at least 33" to squeeze by, 44" to walk by/pass behind to get to other seats. When there is traffic, at least 48" if there are no counters, etc., behind the seats With both counters/appliances and traffic and seating at only one location, 51" to squeeze by when someone is seated, 54" to 60" to walk by. If seating at both locations, then 60" to 72". 60" will work, but 72" is better. Possible fixes: (1) Recommended: Put in a banquette instead of a table. They take up less room b/c you don't have to plan for traffic behind the seats. -or- (2) Eliminate the desk and move the door to the top wall. This way, you won't be trying to fit so much in that small space (small when you consider you want a table + counter/desk + door in that space). -or- (3) Turn the table - but then it would reduce the amount of space you have for the kitchen work area. -or- (4) If this is a new house or you are modifying the FR, consider moving the door to the Family Room...See MoreHow to decide between two HVAC home repairs solutions? Advice, please!
Comments (6)If the furnace sits in the room you're trying to heat (the basement is wide open / unfinished) it's not a good idea to put a 'open' vented return near the furnace. In some situations the return may rob the furnace of combustion air / in the event of that causes the furnace to produce carbon monoxide due to improper burning of the gas. So if this is what you have, it changes things considerably. The furnace needs a dedicated combustion air stream to work properly. If the above statements are correct forget doing what you are thinking here.... Personally choice 1 or 2: both of them have problems to contend with, option 1 has more problems than choice 2. It's not that you can't heat the room with option one, but that heat you supply to it is going to replace the air in that room. Where is that air going to go? This is science, not magic. If you need to visualize it: take two cups a small cup and a larger cup. Fill the larger and smaller cup to the brim with your favorite liquid. Pretend the liquid is 'air'. Now try to fit the contents of the larger cup into the small cup without spilling it. (If you're a magician you could probably do it.) So under this premise: by putting a return in the room you are trying to heat... you dictate where the air in the room is going to go... (assuming it is safe to do this). Control: thermostat is on upper level, when it reaches set point the basement may still be too cold. Crank the thermostat, now the basement gets too hot. -- because the furnace is so close to the area getting heat. HVAC is a 'cause and effect'. You do one thing and it causes problems somewhere else. A solution looks at the whole problem, unfortunately for you this adds more expense. You're looking for comfort. What does that truly mean to you? (everyone has their own definition of what comfort is.) Does the above mean you can't heat or cool a room without a dedicated return: no, that's not what it means. What it means is you may still be uncomfortable. What is your reason for doing this? uncomfortable. capeesh?...See Morecpartist
6 years agoBrian Ohio
6 years agoAnne
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6 years agoDavid Cary
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Mark Bischak, Architect