Help selecting soft apricot colored english shrub rose...Zone 7a TN
Julie Pine
6 years ago
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OGRs versus English types
Comments (29)OGRs are CLASSES of roses which existed prior to 1867 -- the year 'La France' was introduced, and later named "the first Hybrid Tea". All CLASSES introduced thereafter were considered "Modern Roses" (including Hybrid Musks and Polyanthas, though today they are considered "antiques" if not truly OGRs...I mean, an antique is something 100 or more years old, so most make it on that rule). But remember that the cut-off had to do with CLASSES and not individual roses. So a Bourbon (one of the OGR classes) which came out in 1910 would still be an OGR. But a Hybrid Tea introduced in 1896 would be a Modern. I guess it made more sense 50-100 years ago, when Hybrid Teas were seen as the beginning of "something new" in roses, later followed by Floribundas (HT X Polyanthas), Hybrid Musks (a return to the "charming garden roses of old"), the various "shrub" roses (ironic since so many of the OGRs were already "shrubs"), et al. For me, the exact designation doesn't matter much. I like the idea of roses that blend well with other plants. HTs, Floribundas, some of the modern shrubs, etc. are often too "spotlight" for what I want right now -- they are better as bedding plants. I like the softer colors, the "wilder" arching growth, and having a few once-blooming roses that give more flowers in a month than most modern repeat-blooming roses give all season. They all have their place, but I'll keep the HT divas where they can better show-off with less competition -- as pot-pets with annuals, sort of like giant bouquets in planters. :-) ~Christopher Edit To Add -- Jeri beat me to it...I take too long going over my posts before I hit SUBMIT. ;-) This post was edited by AquaEyes on Wed, Sep 25, 13 at 21:00...See Morewhat's your favorite David Austin / English rose?
Comments (20)It is important to remember that I live in Richmond / Vancouver BC. I can only talk about how the roses doing here in my garden, with my soil and our wet weather. I like the following roses for: strong growth, fragrance and colour. Favorites: Abraham Darby, Crown Princess Margaretta, Charlotte, Gertrude Jekyll, Golden Celebration, Jude The Obscure, Pat Austin, Summer Song, Sweet Juliet, Williams Shakepear 2000, Tamora Here is the list of my DA roses Abraham Darby - probably the healthiest Charlotte - pretty good Crown Princess Magaretta - pretty good Jude The Obscure - great fragrant Tamora - very pretty Golden Celebration - very strong growing, large flower Graham Thomas - strong growth but black spot somewhat in late summer Gertrude Jekyll - great rose Evelynn - A diva but when she behaves, she is beautiful and fragrant Mary Magdelene - Always performes, nice fresh fragrant Summer Song - Beautiful color, very healthy Pat Austin - Great color, wonderful fragrant LD Braith Wade - Beautiful flower, not much fragrant Winchester Cathedral - very strong growing, strong fragrant Falstaff - strong growth but defoliage. Very beautiful flowers. Very little fragrant in the sun The Dark Lady - large beautiful color, no fragrant William Shaepear 2000 - great rose with nice fragrant Mary Rose - strong growht, light fragrant Sweet Juliet - strong growth, nice fragrant New ones this year, I might be able to talk about them next summer :) Heritage Gentle Hermione Lady Emma Hamilton - the color is wonderful and the fragrance is out standing. But I have only got 3 flowers so far this year so ... :) Sharifa Asma Scepter Isle Teasing Georgia Generous Gardener...See Morehealthiest roses for zone 6b
Comments (20)I am starting to think that hybrid teas, even the older ones, are not as much work to keep clean as the dense shrubby OSO EZEs and the Knock outs. wIth the HTs you just look to the hygiene, air transfer and spray them with old fashioned Sulpher Lime and dormant oil in the winter. With the twiggy new shrubs you can accumulate all kinds of fungus and stuff but they keep blooming and over grow the yellow leaves. They have to be opened up and cleaned up or they infect everything around them. I really believe this. You really cant strip their leaves off; its suicide. Here in coastal NJ we are in black spot hell, fungusamongus every spring. The nights are cold and wet. The days can get warm with big drops in temperature. Humidity all year. I have rugosas but keep them far away from other roses because they are great mildew traps. I like all of them. Some that I think are excellent for us in cold 6B are Autumn Sunset, Queen Elizabeth, New Dawn, Sea Foam, Cecile Brunner, Heritage (prone a little to bs) popcorn drift, and the newer Kordes. I have found great Maidens Blush gets some, but its worth it, so does Sidonie, but I love it. Sun, spacing, food and hygiene (pick up the leaves) are the keys....See MoreWinter performance of David Austin roses in Zone 6a
Comments (96)@Ann Marie, I have a few climbers and ramblers on a trellis and my best advice is to make sure your rose is hardy for your climate by choosing ones that are atleast one or two hardiness zones below yours. That’s the best way to ensure cane survival through winter (right plant, right place). If the rose is near a wall that retains and reflect heat, then I do zone push and have had success with climbers my zone or one zone above. For example, I’m in zone 4b and I have no problems with New Dawn and James Galway surviving winter without protection on a northwest and southwest wall, respectively. As for training the rose, my approach is to tie the canes tight against the support so that it is secure and doesn’t whip around or rub. I do this in the late winter / early spring when the rose is dormant along with pruning so that I can see the rose’s framework. It also means that I’m working with only hardened canes (I never tie soft or semi-hard canes). I use simple garden twine and tie tight double knots. I don’t skimp and make sure the final rose frame work absolutely does not move. I tie the largest, most established canes to the support first, then the rest. I may even tie smaller canes to the bigger ones. Yes, it’s “crossing branches” but so long as they are tied tight and not rubbing, I find it’s totally fine. Key is no movement of any of those framework canes. I intentionally use twine because it blends in, is cheap, and will eventually degrade (since I do this all over again every winter/spring). If the rose cane is really old and has a tough bark and I know it’s not going to expand, then I tie into the support with black zip ties (gasp!). I’ll also mention that optimal blooms form on canes that are positioned between horizontal and 45 degrees. Here’s a pic of my William Baffin climber last year on a wooden trellis....See MoreJulie Pine
6 years agoRobin Lemke
6 years agoportlandmysteryrose
6 years ago
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