Ha, I saw this earlier and came back to write pretty much what Hollysprings said. So, yeah--that. We have doug fir subfloors too, but they were definitely not designed for prime time (original blueprints called for cement tile--sadly long gone!) It was a really common subfloor wood in the West in the early 20th century because it was so inexpensive. A couple of other thoughts: - Fir is beautiful (many of our neighbors have refinished their fir floors) but it is very soft. One neighbor has a large dog and another has a young child; both floors have taken a beating (the dog floor in particular). That's the primary reason we covered ours back up. Better to keep it safe for someone who might want it in the future! I agree that I don't think it would be easy/possible to get it to tan; fir tends towards orange/red. You can stain it but it looks strange (I think, at least--our new-old fir door has a light tan stain of some sort that is supposedly helping to even the grain where there was some variation, but I think just makes it look yellow on top of the reddish fir tones...bleh). - If you like linoleum, you might look at Marmoleum Click; this is what we chose specifically because it doesn't get glued down, so someone could take it up in the future and refinish the fir. Don't know how their colors compare to Armstrong's, though. We do have another neighbor who laid sheet Marmoleum on the fir, so it can be done but obviously not if you want to preserve the floor for refinishing later. If it's already painted, though, it may not be in great shape underneath. (Ours is a mess and would require some board replacement to refinish; possible but $$. The original builders took no particular care in nail placement or matching grain since it wasn't intended to be used as a finished floor.)

So here's the hint: in the WARRANTY the main company is named: FloorSource Wood Flooring! https://www.trendsflooring.com/cms/pdf/Trends%20in%20Wood%20Warranty_082018.pdf This is how we find out MORE about a product - we look at the written statements found elsewhere on the website. The company Jaeckle Distributors is also mentioned: https://www.jaeckledistributors.com/locations What is missing from the information is the FINISH...as in the chemical that sits on top of the wood. There is no description for it or of it. You may have to reach out to the head office (Jaeckle) to ask for an MSDS or a Technical Specifications document. The more I investigate one of these companies, the more it links me to the other...without offering up much information either way.

You should have your banisters stained at the same time. On the sheen we did satin. I can't remember the brand name because the wood floor person brought it, but I think it started with a "D."

I like to point out a simple fact. FLOORING is the MOST ABUSED 'finish' inside the home. The only thing that takes MORE abuse is the ROOF. If you have a $50K roof line, then feel free to spend roughly the same amount on the flooring. Roofs should last 25 years. That's why we pay so much for them. A floor (or finish on a wood floor) *should last the SAME AMOUNT of time. That's why we pay so much for them. Think of ALL the floors that do NOT make it 25+ years. They are all cheap. Carpets that are 25 years old are considered DISGUSTING. They are considered 'builder favourites' because they are CHEAP and EASY to install. That's why builders love them. Laminate floors (entry level to mid-grade = $0.79/sf - $1.99/sf) are 'disposable' floors and will offer 10 years before they look really bad. They are in the same category as carpet. Disposable floors that are cheap and cheerful...for a small amount of time. A low-end engineered hardwood ($4.99/sf at LL) is much the same as an entry level laminate. Your expectations should be 10-15 years....just like laminate. If you want a floor that will offer 25 years of service (wood floors can go MUCH longer but they need refinishing to do this = HIGHER GRADE = MORE MONEY) you need to work in a HIGHER price bracket. I like to ask people: How do you feel about redoing/refinishing your wood floors in 15 years time? For today's investment of $7/sf (not including labour) do you EXPECT more than 10 - 15 years? You shouldn't. That's entry level stuff. How about 'upping' the price to $12/sf? Would you expect 25 - 60 years worth of life? You should...because the $12/sf price SHOULD get you a wood floor that has the ability to be refinished AT LEAST once (20 years + 20 years = 40 years). If you purchase carefully, you can get 2 refinishes out of it = 60 years. A sand/refinish = $5/sf. Compare that to a 'rip out ($2/sf) and replace ($7/sf)' cost of $9/sf (not including installation). Now you really see the difference. How much did you pay for your roof? Going cheap on a roof NEVER works out. Now compare how much you are willing to spend on your floor. Going cheap on flooring is the same thing as going cheap on a roof.