Thanks for the replies folks - keep them coming - let's have some fruity brainstorming! I've realised that the idea I had in mind was poorly conveyed in the posting (and especially the diagram.) Here's goes with another attempt... and another poor diagram! My standard tree idea was to have the clear stem out of the light and the top branch sytem (leaves & fruit) to be in sunlight. This may encourage some fruit to form and possibly ripen. The stem section may be wasted, but it does not get enough direct sun to allow fruiting from low down to high up, as most trained fruit has (cordons, fans espaliers.) However, the idea of a tree trained to be like a tall step-over (one tier espalier) might work, but it wastes a lot lot of space and would need some training! A big T - tall stem and long laterals. It will also look "ahem" bizarre (no laughing please.) I would ideally like the overall height of the tree to be around 4m and pruned so that most of thefruiting branches hang over my side of the fence. Don't mind climbing a ladder. I used to go up an old apple bush tree that had an open goblet shape that had a 1m tall stem in my old garden. That tree would do well in this situation if I removed the brances that would push into the fence. Regarding varieties I've tasted and enjoyed: Apples - Sunset, Egremont Russet, Discovery, Scrumptious, Spartan, Fiesta, Red Falstaff. Pears - Comice, Concorde, Beth, Conference, Williams. Plums - Jubilee, Opal, Victoria, Green Gage, Ouillins Gage. Currently I'm thinking of 2 apple trees, 2 pear trees and forgoing plums for lack of space and ripening conditions. As I don't want any culinary only varieties, and if desert varieties are difficult in semi-shade or sun for only half the day, then how about dual purpose variety as a compromise. Then it could be left to ripen for longer and eaten as a desert. Or maybe planting early varieties and just leaving them to get sun for longer and picking later. Suagrs may have developed by then.

I really like the tall cupheas and the Morning Light Helianthus angustifolia. They both are neat with lustrous dark green foliage, which makes a nice backdrop for other perennials. Their fall bloom is a lovely bonus. They both get about four feet tall. (I have had the helianthus four years and it has never offered to spread at all.) You could also use some nice shrubs as your backdrop. The new Double Red Knockout rose is a beautiful shrub if it never bloomed. Spireas, butterfly bushes, Korean boxwood, mugo pines, even hydrangeas would all fill the bill. If you want a punch of golden green, look for duranta, Cuban Gold. It will take on shrub like size by summer's end and is gorgeous. (Very easy to start from cuttings too, if you want to overwinter it.)

Kabby, I like the cool colors you're using in your mini bed. As for the Artemesias (artemisias?), in late winter/early spring when the weather is starting to turn the corner I whack my Powis Castle down to the ground. Even if we still get some freezing nights it doesn't seem to phase the new growth at that point. Then within a few weeks it clumps out tight and full just like the pics you've been seeing. I've had it 4 or 5 years now. The first year I didn't cut it back and it did get kinda' bare in the middle so I started doing the early cutback and haven't had a problem since. I was given my Limelight Artemesia at a plant trade and didn't realize it was actually called 'Oriental Limelight'. At least it looks like the same plant. Now I know lol! But just so you know, I have grown mine in bright full sun as well as part shade and it seems to do fine in both locations so long as it gets occassional watering. I've never had to baby it though. If you like its variegated look I personally wouldn't hesitate to plant it in a sunny spot, however it probably wouldn't be good for your front of the border area because it will grow 2-3 feet high unless you are prepared to keep cutting it back. Danielle

Wow, so many lovely photos and great responses! Thanks everyone! I currently use many of the plants mentioned elsewhere in the garden, but just hadn't thought of them as ideas for the spot I'm working on. It's great to be reminded by you folks! I can think of using Dianthus, Armeria, Buxus, Antirrhinum, Nepeta -I've had great success with N. tuberosa-, Viola, Santolina, Myrtus, Alyssum, Eriogonum, and a few shorter ornamental grasses in other parts of my yard and my parents' yard in the front of various borders. I've had a lot better luck with Pelargoniums (especially the scented varieties) than Geraniums in this particular area. Petunias also struggle to succeed here without a lot of water. 'Rozanne' was beautiful for a few months, but just didn't enjoy it in full sun here so I've been less experimental with hardy Geraniums. I have 'Attar of Roses' Pelargonium in front of a Banskia Lutea that has worked out just perfectly as edging. I'd like to go with a different foliage look than Pelargonium here however. I'd use Lavender in a heartbeat for its color, but most varieties tend to get as big or bigger than roses here. L. multifida stays more compact so I use it a bit more often, but it doesn't quite have that classic lavender fragrance to its foliage. I wouldn't say that's a big problem, but I much prefer the fragrance of dentata, angustifolia, or stoechas among others to that of multifida. Has anyone utilized Hebe as shorter shrubs in the manner of Boxwood or Myrtle? Or is anyone using a Teucrium variety to get a similar look to Boxwood? I hadn't though of Erysimum, but I planted a wonderfully rounded Wallflower this past year. I forget the name, but it might work well. I'll upload a picture of the Erysimum soon hopefully. Thanks for your recommendations and pictures everyone! Before I forget, does anyone else grow Dianthus superbus or any similarly scented Dianthus? I enjoy the clovey scent of traditional Pinks, but I have fallen for the scent many of the fringed pinks seem to offer. I think D. arenarius has a similar fragrance. If you know of any Dianthus varieties that aren't clove scented, let me know! Jay