Even Aristocraft cabinets shut properly. These drawers were probably put together wrong and will be an easy fix. Hope it's the case! Good luck.

In your second picture. Is that a screw going through the side of the cabinet?

Fori - The cabinets arrived from Aristokraft assembled. The installer simply set them in place, leveled, glued, etc. It seems that the drawer alignment step was either not completed "yet" or completely forgotten.

roof35 - It does look that way... I assume that is how it was secured to the wall? Is that not correct?

FYI - there are a total of 12 drawers in the master bathroom... these pics are just a few examples.

The cabinets do appear to be correctly shimmed and screwed on the back wall. I'm not sure why the side screws are not shimmed unless he is not done.

Same installer did the vanity in our guest bathroom just 2 week ago, same brand, same style, same grade. Those are shimmed on back and sides. Here are pics of that vanity:

Check to make sure they are level.

The only time I had seen someone shim on the side, was to "pull" the cabinet tight against a side wall. This was done because they didn't scribe to the wall. It also resulted in a out of square cabinet. By doing this the weight of the cabinet naturally goes to the floor. Something ends up giving and the result is an out of square carcass.

Also, on the third to the last picture you just posted. It looks like the rear corner brace has a space in it. This is another indication the carcass is out of square and was pulled that way.

There's plenty of reading to be found on how to install cabinets. Including where to shim, how to level & plumb, making sure it's square, and how to scribe material. Much more than I could write.

Simple way to check square is either with a square. Or measure diagonally like an "X" to points on openings/corners on the face of the cabinet. Also you can check the top of the cabinet from inside corner to inside corner. The measurements should be exactly the same.

I completely disagree with roof35. Anyone installing cabinets on my jobs would be fired if they did not use every available stud to anchor the cabinets. There is nothing wrong with anchoring the side of the cabinet to the side wall, however, I have seen the improper method and reason that roof35 is referring to plenty of times. There is no indication in your pictures that this was installed wrong. If that screw in the side of the cabinet was able to rack the entire cabinet, the side of the cabinet would be quite bowed. I would be more concerned as to whether the drawers have sufficient clearance at the door trim when pulling out the drawer.

The skewed/racked drawer is so common that it is a non-issue. I don't even have to bother looking for the correct brand or type of drawer glides to come up with a video to show how trivial this is.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GALrj1P58qo

I rarely even have to bother with taking the drawers out to make this adjustment.

Doors and drawers not shutting properly is a classic symptom of a "racked" cabinet, a cabinet pulled out of square from lack of/improper shimming. Shims bring a crooked/out-of-plumb wall to a square, level and plumb cabinet.

The GC on this job is apparently inexperienced, judging by his blaming the cabinet manufacturer.

Sure, door and drawers can be adjusted and are designed to do so. Before that happens, the cabinets must be installed properly.

Good eye, Fred. I saw and thought the same about the drawer striking the casing when I saw the picture. The lack of a filler is another clue someone is clueless.

Fred,

Take a look at the photos, not just one drawer. Its all drawers.

Anyone who doesn't check for plumb/level/square and starts adjusting drawers, has no clue.

There's absolutely no need to install screws through a side panel when everything is as it should be.

It's seen daily on here, and you confirming this is the way things are done by your crew speaks volumes.

There are some basic design errors shown here. Cabinet designs always start with a filler against a wall. Even partial overlay styles. At least an inch of filler. Walls are never square, and you need a plumb and square surface to place the cabinet against. That is a filler, scribed properly to a wall. If you don't start with a scribed filler, you end up with gaps. Or, you end up with racked cabinets by someone attempting to force the cabinets tight against an out of square wall. Which is what you have here.

"Doors and drawers not shutting properly is a classic symptom of a "racked" cabinet." It is also a classic symptom of the freight company being a little rough, shifting the back or the drawer glide. Racked drawers, not cabinets, happens every time I stand a cabinet on its side to carry it down the hall and into the bathroom by myself. A headache is a classic symptom of a brain tumor, but seldom does a headache mean you need to get an MRI before taking an aspirin.

"not just one drawer. Its all drawers." A cabinet that is "racked" is still square at the bottom drawer due to the bottom panel of the cabinet keeping it square unless the cabinet is broken. Your guess would be more likely if it was way more predominant on just the top drawers, a little on all the middle drawer, and not really noticeable on all the bottom drawers.

"There's absolutely no need to install screws through a side panel when everything is as it should be." I am not partial to leaving the possibility open for the granite installer to be able to accidently rack the cabinet, and neither are any of the many cabinet installers I know. It certainly does not hurt, or rack the cabinet when done properly, but you would rather jump to the conclusion of the rookie move you appearantly made.

What speaks volumes, roof35, is your jumping to the only conclusion your lack of experience could think of... and, do not forget that the company that sells these cabinets, and deals with them every day agrees with me as to what is most likely.

While I always prefer to put in a filler where door casing is involved, even for partial overlay (I make sure any wiggle/play in the glides would not allow the drawer face to hit), it is not always necessary just for butting cabinets into a wall. The face frame hangs over the box by ¼", and is usually enough for descent framing. I see a gap between the box and the wall all the way back to the corner in every picture, so it is unlikely that the cabinet is racked for that reason,... or even racked at all since that is the most common reason.

"If necessary, how hard will it be to uninstall and reinstall the cabinets correctly?:

Not very.

"Is it possible to remove and reset without damaging the cabinets?"

Yes, easily.

Hi Jill wondered if you found a solution for this? Are these the cabinets that needed to be taken out because the sink was too close to the wall or is that a different bathroom?

Update - met with the contractors the other day and they showed me the cabinets are square. The issue is that the drawer rails are either not installed straight (some of them were not even attached at the back) or the drawers are simply not adjusted. The reason there is screw in the side of that one cabinet - it was shimmed, but then he removed that shim in order to make it square. Also, the rubber bumpers that Artistocrap puts on their cabinets are WAY TOO BIG - like ridiculously too big. So we peeled them all off and will eventually put low-profile bumpers in. Anyway - they are going to work on them. I'll share pictures when they are done.

Mawizz - No! This is a DIFFERENT bathroom. Ugh. The guest bathroom with the good vanity (picture above) is the one we are tearing out because the cabinet configuration is not right. Two week delay is worth it.

Jill:

Did the contractors show you the cabinets were level, plumb, and on plane to each other?

Joseph, Yes... I think so. They showed me what I interpreted to make sense - they appear level and straight (using a level and a straight edge). But I am not a technical expert so I really don't know. I am going to the house tonight with my husband and will ask him what he thinks.

Of course it was ;-)