Preventing a 4X4 Redwood post from rotting in the ground
loribee2
6 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agoRelated Discussions
plant friendly way to secure posts in ground? l. sempervirens
Comments (7)In rocky clay, you have a drainage issue and moisture trapped by the concrete is the enemy of any wood, even treated. As the posts will be tied together by the structure of the arbor, you won't need to worry about any of the posts sagging, as they might if they were holding up a fence. However, you still need to consider frost heave that could cause part of your arbor to shift, so should drop your posts deep enough to get below your frost line, which in zone 6, shouldn't be below 30 inches. Dig down at least 30 inches, fill the bottom 6" with gravel, then set your posts and back fill with soil, packing it well. BUT- with a 5 X 2- 1/2 ft arbor- why bother setting the corner posts into the ground at all? My arbor is nearly the same size and we mounted the corner posts to some treated 4 X 4's that serve as skids, laying on the ground. We drilled holes and locked them down with rebar. Eventually, those short pieces of 4 x 4 base may rot, but the arbor itself has no direct ground contact, and if ever necessary replacing those 2 base pieces will be easy. It will also allow me to move it if necessary, for maintenance or reconfiguration of the space....See MoreSystemic fungicide question to prevent rot....
Comments (7)Thanks for the replies. I believe I lost so many this winter due to a combination of many reasons. They were uprooted from the ground in October where they were very happy. They were moved 350 miles north which is a different zone. With disturbed roots, they got a lot of rain in October and one night it got cool while they were wet. I then moved them all into the garage to dry out for the winter. I'm not used to babying them in the winter. In the Keys, they are fine all winter long in the ground. I think some of the tips were resting against the cold garage walls. The garage never got below around 57 degrees and a fan circulates the air. Most of the ones I lost were youngsters, 1 or 2 year old rooted cuttings. Many of them were Thai cultivars and some of them are known to be prone to black tip and hard to grow. THOSE, I do not intend to replace. In fact, I probably will only replace maybe 3 that I lost and instead get larger, more hardy trees since I now have to move them in each winter. My list of losses grew when I moved them outside yesterday and noticed 2 more missing, ones that must have rotted and I forgot to catalog them. However, I did find some I didn't know that I had. Duplicates, but still 3 surprises. One is a beautiful compact tree, a bright rainbow that was given to me by it's owner from a tree in the Keys. It roots almost overnight, is very hardy, blooms constantly, such a nice tree. The other was a Japanese Lantern that Emerson Willis brought me. Also a gorgeous extremely fragrant coral pink that I collected from a tree in the Keys. My updated winter of 2012 loss list: BALI WHIRL BLACK PURPLE BLACK TIGER CHOKKA DELIGHT COMPACTA PEACH COOKTOWN SUNSET ESSIEâÂÂS FANTASY GARDENIA GLADYS âÂÂKâ BRANDT GOLD COAST PEACHY KANEOHE SUNBURST KAUKA WILDER- 2 OF THEM LILAC CLOUDS MARY MORAGNE MELE PA BAUMAN MIRACLE PINK MUANG BEDJAPAN MUANG ONCAREK ORANGE SHERBERT PLASTIC PINK TEXAS AGGIE THAI ORANGE SPLENDOUR...See MorePreventing blossom end rot before I plant?
Comments (12)First you need to understand what actually causes BER - and it is NOT a lack of calcium in the soil. There are literally 100 discussions here about the cause of BER and why hole additives such as egg shells, bone meal, TUMS, and the many other weird things folks claim prevent it have nothing to do with actually preventing it. While having a proper soil pH is very beneficial for many reasons, including help in preventing BER, you have already accomplished that. From the point of transplanting on the key is stabilizing the soil moisture to a consistent level and allowing the plant's root and circulatory system to mature to the point it can provide the needed calcium that is already in the soil to the fruit. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: BER discussions...See MoreLaying 4x4 over a cement slab
Comments (3)numerous deck builders have to me me that the treated 4x4 is designed for water contact. although ideally to prevent it in my case I have little choice. i have no gap to provide real space but I'm assuring ventilation under the deck and keep the incline so water is not supposed to stay there. I'm anchoring 12' long 4x4 by 4 5" lag screws each (so it's roughly 3.5" distance). It seems quite secure. I'll post pictures later when I'm done with it. Drilling 2" long 5/8" radius holes in concrete is no fun... thanks for your input! -Roman...See Moreloribee2
6 years agokudzu9
6 years agorwiegand
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6 years agoKathy Yata
6 years agokudzu9
6 years agoKathy Yata
6 years agoken_mcdonnell
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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