Elevating root balls above the surface can be tricky. Especially if the raised root ball will act like a wick. It will do this especially if there is a difference between the porosity of the nursery soil and the new soil. Raised root balls are usually only indictated for plants that are susceptible to crown rot (like citrus). The benefit of which is lost by adding a layer of mulch (recommended). Figs are not susceptible. Here is what the Texas Aggies recommend: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/homefruit/fig/fig.html . Good luck!

The gnats don't do any damage. A heavy infestation of the larvae, however, will damage plants as they are down there gnawing the roots. The problem is - and you saw that with your last go-round - no matter how many of the adults you trap or kill, they've already laid eggs and the larvae just keep coming. I don't much care for MG or most pre-bagged potting mixes, but these days I can't seem to get decent peat moss at all. It all seems too fine textured and dusty. You can add pumice, if you can get it, to your soil mix to improve drainage. It is water-retentive, but helps to maintain aeration as well. You can get it fairly inexpensively as Stall Dry from a feed store. It needs to be rinsed, it is crushed and very dusty. Otherwise use the coarsest perlite you can find. But back to treating your plants, if you want to save them. One option is Bt-israeliensis available as Gnatrol. Follow the directions. It will take about 3 weeks. It needs to be Bt-i - not the "regular" Bt, that's a different strain. Gnatrol is the right one, though there may be others. Follow the directions - I'm pretty sure you have to apply it every 5 days for at least 3 weeks. And you still need to sterilize all your surfaces and pots and tools to be sure you're going to start out gnat-free after whatever treatment you choose is done. There are several Bonide products that contain Imidacloprid - an insecticide that I am pretty sure is NOT organic, but it is effective. Just follow the directions on the label. I have not been able to locate a specific pyrethrum product to kill fungus gnats, but according to the U of CO, what you want is: The most effective treatments are those that are persistent; killing adults for up to three days. A number of pyrethroid-based insecticides, with extended persistence, are available for use on houseplants including those containing the following active ingredients: bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, permethrin, and lambdacyhalothrin. There used to be something called Ecotrol? I think? That would have fit that bill - but I don't think it is made any more. It probably IS in your unopened bag of potting mix at this point - those bags always have holes and tiny tears in them SOMEWHERE. So I would remove that from the area - like into a shed or the garage, on a porch, or even just set in the yard somewhere, but away from the area. You can solar sterilize it later. You really COULD do it in your kitchen oven, but its a royal pain, and it smells to high heaven. That much potting soil is likely to stink up your kitchen for a week or more. After you've completed whatever course of treatment you have chosen - and it must be said, complete disposal of all plants and the soil they are in ought to be considered - you still need to sterilize everything. Clean all your pots and tools and surfaces to get rid of all loose debris and dispose of it. Then sterilize...

"Does anyone have suggestions for what brand / where to purchase the fixtures and bulbs?" Wait for sales at Menards. A reasonable sales price for a shop light is under $15 and a reasonable sales price for a generic T8 bulb is under $2 but the sales rarely occur at the same time. If you want better bulbs, I suggest Sylvania Sky White 8000K with a sales price of $40 for a case of 12. See http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3695796/bargain-alert-thread?n=20

Damask, What a treat to tune into on a morning when I appreciate the cheerful photos of MyDelight. Thank you! The photos are gorgeous, and capture the essence of its beauty. You are a great grower. What is your other favorite? Fun to meet someone who is also fond of MyD and also of "Rose" AVs. I tried most of the AVs you named except for the first Russian one, LE Wine Rose. I will look for it. It is so helpful to have your list. Alas, I found them all to be fussy, except for MyDelight. Novice, Russian blossoms are much larger than standards. But so is the foliage. Also, the foliage takes space, it can be unruly. If you are going for decor and a neat look, probably stay with O. They are designed to grow in symmetrical, tidy whorls. If you are going for decor and a neat look, probably stay with are designed to grow in symmetrical, tidy whorls. MyDelight is a standard but it is not typical. It has "trailer" or "rambling" genes. Trailers are easy, bloom constantly, have a carefree, natural, unstructured look. MyD has ruffly flowers, as shown, with an edge in silvery beige, blooms nearly constantly, and has "glitter." There seems to be more liveliness about it. You might want it for your daughter's room because it is a great introductory plant. It can survive "casual" care. Or try it as an experiment in growing different types of plants. It always looks good, even if not blooming, because the leaves are pretty. Damask, I grew multiples of it for our club's AV sales. But the general public did not recognize it as an AV and often passed over it! I have grown actual pink trailers that spread and I did not know how to groom. MyD is an improvement. Joanne