The other option is to just get over it. :) A kitchen is a workroom. Most people prefer to choose best in class from many different manufacturers to ensure their work room works efficiently. No manufacture makes best in class in each category, so if you choose the best functioning DW, you will probably end up with a different brand range and a different brand fridge anyway. As long as everything IS stainless, it's fine. And, there are plenty of people who even mix stainless and non stainless successfully. Anyone who comes in your home and turns their nose up at coordinating stainless appliances that do not necessarily match needs to be thrown out of your home.

I don't know if you have priced any of these yet. Expect an island hood to cost $500-1000 more than a similar wall model. Some of the fancier ones carry quite a sticker shock. It isn't hard to find ones that cost $4K when you get into the designer models. My first reaction to hood prices: "That's more than the rangetop!" When you get a quote, make sure you understand what is included. On some, the fan and duct cover are extra. It took some searching to find more reasonably priced options. I don't remember where that Miele fell - it wasn't in the sky high prices but I think it was a bit more than the one we got. It fell out of the running because it didn't have the CFM that we wanted for our burners. Some of the Miele's (but I don't know about that one because I didn't see it in person) had the lights on the back edge on a tilt where they shined into my eyes which was very unpleasant. So much to take into account. For good performance on an island, it is best to get something that covers the surface well - ideally at least 6" wider (3" on each side) than the cooking area.

I have a Bluestar 30" RCS v2 and a Zephyr Napoli 36" island hood (ZNA-M90CS). The stainless steel color match is very good. To my eye, they look as if they were made from the same batch of steel and brushed with the same tools and technique. I really love my Bluestar RCS but I have mixed feelings about the Napoli. It looks really nice but it is a lot noisier than I expected. Technically, the noise volume is relatively low and to spec -- ranging from about 40dB(a) to 66dB(a) depending upon the fan speed setting. The problem is not the noise volume, but rather, the quality/pitch of the noise. It is not the low frequency sound of air rushing through the baffles. It is a higher pitch whirring motor/fan sound right at ear level.. You can easily talk over it with normal conversation, but it is quite irritating to listen to. Also, as an island hood, its flat bottom capture area it is not very effective. If I place a steam kettle with its spout directly under the center of the hood (the baffles are 33" above the burner grates), a large portion of the rising steam hits the baffles and then just rolls around and up the sides of the hood to the ceiling. There is no effective storage volume below the baffles to capture and hold the effluent long enough for the air flow to completely exhaust it into the duct. In retrospect, I would rather have an island hood with an external blower and deep recessed, angled baffles.

I may have left out some words due to repetition. The number of square feet refers to the entry aperture of the hood. For example, a 36 x 24 hood aperture would be 6 square feet, and would require 6 x 90 = 360 CFM actual, likely needing a blower rated at 540 CFM. Pressure loss not only entails the ducting, but the baffles and the MUA path. Leaky walls are not exactly a free path for air. A leaky house may be sufficient for MUA in practice (given that the blower rating takes the pressure loss into account), but the OP may live where aggressive code enforcement will demand at least a damper in a duct to the outside. The rationale for 90 ft/min is based on ensuring entrainment into baffle gaps that typically are around 50% of the baffle area and have to deal with upward plume velocities of as much as 1.2 m/s. See also the table (Figure 4) on page 9 of the Greenheck Guide available here: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf The discussion leading to that table should prove useful for background information. In particular, the Greenheck method vs. the linear feet of hood edge (all the way around for an island hood) method is discussed. (Note commercial cooking rarely is true island type; even located in the middle of a kitchen the hood is connected to the cooktop via a back section. There may also be side skirts on the hood.) Last, let me point out that capture can fail under cross draft conditions, which are almost always worse for island/peninsula configurations than wall configurations.