Help! What is wrong with our maple tree?
CLC
6 years ago
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CLC
6 years agoRelated Discussions
What wrong with my Norway Maple Tree??
Comments (2)Jake, that is a fairly large sized transplant. I guess the windstorm before you got the tree dried out the rootball and or the leaves causing the wilt. You are probably earning its thanks for the effort you are putting forth! What to do.... First off, does this type of tree grow well in your area? Do your neighbors have good looking ones? I was amazed at what grows and does not grow in the Denver area and don't want you fighting an uphill battle. Second, use a small shovel and your finger to make sure your watering efforts are getting the rootball moist. Sometimes differences in soil composition between the rootball and our yards can either create a moist or dry spot. Small foliage is normal for a stressed tree. You are right to be concerned. Does it have a warranty and how long? Good luck, that had to be some work to plant....See MoreHelp ! What is wrong with my red maple tree?
Comments (1)I'd take a sample to your county extension. It could be a simple fungus that you would just have to make sure to rake up and dispose all the fallen leaves, or it could be something that would kill the tree. Have it checked before it has a chance to spread to other trees of yours, or your neighbors....See MoreI'm almost scared to ask, but what's wrong with my maple? Help please
Comments (9)It appears to be some delayed transplant shock - not fatal but not necessarily a good thing, either. First, you already know this but I'm going to repeat........planting a JM in June in a hot summer climate that is undergoing an extended drought is just not a great idea. Period. The tree is put at an immediate disadvantage by doing so. A reaction by the tree to this stressful situation should not be unexpected. Second, I know it seems counterintuitive, but pruning off the roots is exactly what you should NOT have done. Those fine feeder roots are how the tree accesses soil moisture and nutrients - the larger roots are only for anchorage. So the tree is now working on a second disadvantage - trauma to the rootball (JM roots are very sensitive to disturbance) and a lack of feeder roots. What I'd suggest you should have done is remove as much of the soil on the top of the rootball as possible to expose the burlap, cut any ties (and gently remove) and then unwrap the burlap surrounding the trunk and remove as much from the top of the rootball as possible, leaving the sides - with fine roots growing through - intact. Cutting off these roots has given the tree a major setback. In fact, the nursery I am associated with now nullifies their guarantee policy if removal of the burlap disturbs the rootball excessively......it is that much of a disruption to the plant, especially during the middle of the growing season. Finally, I'd want to know about your watering routine. Using an automated sprinkler system to water a newly planted tree is usually not a great idea. In fact, I discourage it. Most systems come on for a few minutes once or twice a day - this is not enough water for a new tree, particularly one of that size. And you can't tell just by looking at the surface of the soil or even down a couple inches if the soil is adequately moist down to a sufficient depth - it may appear adequately moist on the surface but be dry as a bone further down. Watering by hand, with the hose on a low trickle, for an extended period of time as often as necessary is a much better approach. The water needs to penetrate down into the soil profile at least to the depth of the bottom of the rootball and only low and slow will accomplish this sort of irrigation. A drip system or soaker could accomplish the same thing, but not a sprinkler system. So you've planted at possibly the worst time of year, you've cut off a major portion of the tree's feeder roots that supply its moisture needs and your watering program is not very suitable. Not a huge surprise the tree is reacting poorly :-) All you can do at this point in time is correct your watering practices and hopefully adequate water and cooler fall temperatures will encourage some new root development. I believe this to be recoverable but it may not be obvious until next spring and how well the tree leafs out at that time. Did it come with a warranty?...See MoreWhat is wrong with my Maple tree?
Comments (2)Yup lichens, I've seen this a lot in Falmouth, MA on trees, I think it's interesting....See MoreCLC
6 years agotoronado_3800
6 years agoarbordave (SE MI)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoCLC
6 years agoarbordave (SE MI)
6 years agoLogan L Johnson
6 years agoAshBecky 5aWI
6 years agoArborist Scottie AshTree seed
6 years agoArborist Scottie AshTree seed
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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