Katie, your picture is very dark. We really can't see details. Maybe take another one?

For an easy overview of the unfamiliar garden plants you're seeing, you might go to the local public library and look for books about garden plants for your region. And if you're looking for a particular book your library doesn't own, their Interlibrary Loan service can obtain it for you (sometimes charging a small fee). === "Plants for a Livable Delaware" talks about invasive plants which should be avoided, and those which might be substituted for particular invasives. http://www.dnlaonline.org/information/plants_for_delaware.php === The University of Delaware Botanic Garden has -- besides the garden itself -- plant info, events, plant sales, etc.: http://ag.udel.edu/udbg/ === NCSU has wonderful lists of garden plants in various categories (bulbs to trees, and everything in between). I've seen this information in the same format for other states, so I assume there's a USDA database which the states adapted for their particular climates. Unfortunately I could not locate such a database for Delaware (though that doesn't mean there isn't one). Anyway, NC's zones include DE's zones, so the NC database would be useful for you: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/index.html First, click on the category you're interested in. Then choose whichever arrangement of data presentation is most useful. Don't ignore the "By Scientific Name" and "By Common Name" at the top of each category.

Before spending money on something called "soil" take a good look at the soil you already have. It does little good to add to bad soil some even really good soil but even bad soil with the proper amendments can be made good and often at lower cost then buying some kind of "soil". Contact the people at your local office of the Washington State University Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know your soils pH and present level of certain nutrients and then dig into your soil with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. which can guide you in making the soil you have into a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants better able to ward off insect pests and plant diseases. Here is a link that might be useful: WSU CES

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new garden - how exciting! I'm sorry the first response to your question made you feel you needed to apologize. It's a good question, and a lot of people wouldn't even consider that the tomatoes might be a green when ripe variety. I think statistically you probably have a red tomato, unless you know that the gardener planted other unusual veggies. As Dave said, the way to tell is by touch - go out and fondle your tomato bottoms ð If they are hard/unripe, you may want to consider some proactive steps to tell them to get a move on. I'd start by finding out when your first frost should be (if you don't know) - try googling 'Ontario first frost' or similar - and taking a look at your long range weather forecast for nighttime temps dipping below 40 or so. If you still have some time, you can try 'root pruning' your plant(s) by slicing a shovel into the ground about a foot away from the stem on a few sides (not all around.). This is supposed to speed ripening. You can also search this forum for terms like 'ripen before frost' or just 'first frost' to get some additional ideas. If your frost is coming, you may want to make plans to cover your plants at night -sometimes there's more good weather after a night of frost if you can pull the plants through it. You're really just looking for a slight 'blush' of color on the bottom of the tomato or a little give/softness if they're green when ripes; then you can pick them and ripen them indoors. Good luck and I wish you ripe tomatoes! ~emmers Edited to add : I initially missed the part where you said you've grown most of the veggies before and thought you were brand new - my apologies. This post was edited by emmers_m on Tue, Oct 1, 13 at 9:15