Deadheading will not encourage rebloom....even on the reblooming or remontant forms. New flowers on these types are coming from a different area on the plant and deadheading will neither encourage or discourage additional flowering, this season or next.

Many gardeners will leaves the faded blossoms in place, as they are often attractive as they age and dry on the plant but if they bother you, feel free to clip them off just above the set of leaves that appear below the flowerhead.

Ok I will just leave them then . Easier :) thank u

Actually, it depends on the type. Which type of hydrangea do you have ?

I have the pink one and bloomstruck hydrangea

The bloomstruck one was planted in early May.

I'm not sure it does matter what type of hydrangea :-) Those that bloom on new wood - like the paniculatas or the arborescens - set their flower buds in late spring. Deadheading will not produce additional flowers - the buds are either present or not. Same with new wood blooming macs........deadheading the old wood flowers will not encourage either a rebloom on them or affect the flowering potential of the new wood growth. It is what it is.

FWIW, I can't think of ANY shrub that will produce additional flowers from deadheading. That is kind of the purview of herbaceous perennials and annuals only :-))

Take a look at the video link I've included.

Like the vast majority of YouTube gardening videos, it is pretty much horse puckey!! I'm sure the Endless Summer folks would like you to believe that deadheading will produce more flowers. It doesn't. You will get the same number of flowers whether you deadhead or not. If you are lucky or live in the right climate, you will get a set amount of flowers generated from the old wood - deadheading will not increase these. And you will also get whatever is generated from the new wood growth, but deadheading these will not produce any more or any less.

Even Michael Dirr, the hydrangea guru, will not commit to deadheading creating more flowering, although he does acknowledge that deadheading the flowers on the old wood growth as soon as they go over will encourage better and more rapid flowering on the new growth. But not more :-))

Check out this previous thread........there are some very skilled and experienced hydrangea growers commenting on it and their interpretation of deadheading is the same as mine. The flowering potential (number of flowers) is NOT increased by deadheading.

I forgot to mention I'm in zone 5! Very cold and lots of snow in winter! I never protect it But the pink hydrangea still comes back with beautiful blooms and very bushy !

btw the bloomstruck does bloom on old wood . This one that I bought was bloomed on old wood

Lydia, one way to tell which is the bloomstruck it should have Red stems

I also think the term reblooming is over stated you'll be lucky if you get 1/2 doz. blooms on the second flush

In gardening a lot of times the best way to figure something out is to try it. Your hydrangeas are loaded with blooms. I would try cutting one off (don't have to wait for it to become spent) and see if it reblooms like they say in the video.

That not how it works on the ES series the 2nd flush usually comes in the Fall

When you cut off an endless summer bloom, actually 2 shoots appear so you get 2 flowers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZbqpD1ihmQ

Here is a video from great garden plants where he shows that.

Some people purposely remove blooms (as painful as it may feel at the time), so they get more shoots which means ultimately more blooms with a fuller plant.

Also, I've done it myself and its worked for me that way too!

"When you cut off an endless summer bloom, actually 2 shoots appear so you get 2 flowers!"

So you get a flower on every shoot immediately after pruning regardless of the time of year?

You need to patent that plant. You are sitting on a gold mine.

It obviously have to be in the growing season when plant is active. Would take maybe 3 weeks for the new flowers to start forming.

The best way to encourage rebloom is force the plant through a cold spell, greenhouse style. Not sure what the turnaround time is, but there is a critical period between entering and exiting dormancy, even on new growth shoots, where the plant "decides" where to produce the florets. This has appeared to be a "ONE-TIME" deicision per year (unless forcing).

This year, I had numerous free-flowering hydrangeas in pots, you know, the ones that are supposed to produce flowers on lateral buds as well as terminal buds. But a late freeze of 27.7F hit, which knocked back the outer 10-20% of growth. Since, there have been literally no flowers on lateral buds except for on a few plants. Why? My theory.

There are really too many plant names to get into specifics, but some like Claudie, Perfecfion, Firelight, Blue Wave have zero flowers.

Same was the case for hydrangeas in the ground. Plenty of old wood survived this year, but no flowers. Harmony, Nikkoes, Expression, Merritt's Supreme etc etc.

Because of erratic weather and climate, controlling or encouraging this that and the other is nearly moot and is entirely left to chance. Your best bet is to indeed enclose the ENTIRE plant til around 5/1, unless you live in an area where there are no freezes after the plants break dormancy.

But I'll tell you one thing, the growers and retailers and branders won't share this information with you (Dirr's even in it for the $ and cannot paint the whole picture for you). Well, except maybe one of the old shrub gurus at your local nursery. They can smell fads a mile away. Bigleaf hydrangeas weren't really meant to grow in any kind of climate other than that than which they were originally found. The closer you get to replicating it, the better off you are (case study: Azores). Not to say they'll never adapt to different climates via evolution, but the odds of that in our lifetimes are slim to none.