AnnKH5 years ago
Virgil Carter Fine Art5 years ago
How Do I Determine How Many Annuals I Need?Comments (5)goodkamra, have you planted anything yet? It really depends on the specific annuals you buy. My petunias, for example, are pretty much jammed together with just a couple of inches in between at best. My fancy coleus, with the "fountain" shape and lanced leaves, needs room to show off. But I think your ten inches apart will look like a really spotty planting with many annuals. In fact, when you're planting a container you typically want to go a bit closer than what the little tag says on the plant. Linda's idea of the graph paper is a good one. Draw a circle to scale on the grid, and then take it to the garden center with you. When you find a plant you like, look at its recommended spacing and plot it to the circle. Different plants, different plots. Then throw in a few extra to allow for the scootching together you'll probably find you need to do, and you're set! I wish I'd thought to do this graph paper when I planted my 10' planter this year. Instead, I bought the plants in three trips. Bought a bunch, set them out on the soil and eyeballed how far they'd go. Bought a second bunch and planted everything. Bought the third bunch to fill in where things needed it. I enjoy shopping, but it certainly wasn't very efficient!...See More
Argggggh. . .How many fertilizers do I need???Comments (13)Chemical fertilizers are salts and will last as long as salt lasts, which is pretty much forever. Even if they get combined with a small amount of water (condensation), it doesn't change the strength or chemical composition of the mixture, it only changes the phase from a solid to a liquid/suspension. Dry organic fertilizers that are comprised of various mineral elements and 'meals;, like feather/hoof/bone/horn meals will remain effective indefinitely if kept dry because decomposition depends on moisture. The only thing left is liquid organic fertilizers like fish emulsion, which contain bactericides that work to prevent breakdown as long as the number of ppm of the bactericide is high enough, as when the fertilizer remains undiluted. Diluted fish emulsion spoils quickly because the ppm level of the bactericide is not as high as it is in the undiluted product. Freezing has no effect on the chemical composition of any of these products. Yes, Andrew. I would recommend FP 9-3-6 for blooming plants as well. While there 'could' conceivably be the rare case where P is deficient in (garden/beds) mineral soils, making a high-P formula useful for that specific application, they are generally counter-productive. In containers, the media supplies so little nutrition that we may as well consider it devoid of nutrients. This means plants depend almost solely on the nutrients we supply. Since we KNOW plants use about 6x more N than P during all growth phases, how can we justify using a fertilizer that supplies more P than N? I don't know if I mentioned it upthread, but excessive P in the soil solution unnecessarily raises the level of TDS/EC (makes it harder for plants to absorb water and the nutrients dissolved in water), unnecessarily raises pH (already a significant issue in our long term houseplant plantings), an inhibits the uptake of several nutrients, chief among them being Fe and Mn (iron and manganese), but N as well. This is a very common scenario: A grower is using 10-15-10 and notices some yellowing of foliage. Thinking the plant is lacking N, he/she fertilizes. The yellowing grows worse and no cause can be determined, so it must need more fertilizer - right? More fertilizer applied - yellowing grows worse ..... and so on. What's happening: The excess P in the soil is causing an antagonistic deficiency and inhibiting Fe and Mn uptake, which causes chlorosis. Actually, it may also be inhibiting N uptake, which also causes chlorosis. Additionally, because 10-15-10 provides about 9X more P than the plant can/will use, when N is depleted from the soil, there is still a large amount of P. Adding more of the high-P formulation only exacerbates the problem, so it's a never-ending spiral. This doesn't occur in every case so it's readily noticeable, but it does occur to some degree anytime we use a high-P formulation for containerized plants. There is more than enough P in 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers (examples: 24-8-16, 12-4-8, 9-3-6) to meet the need of any blooming plant. Tip: keep the P levels as low as possible for Hibiscus and never use a high-P formulation. A little extra K is nice for Hibiscus in the form of a little potash mixed into the soil or a little ProTeKt 0-0-3 added to your 3:1:3 ratio fertilizer solution. It's not an accident that MG and others label their 3:1:2 ratio fertilizers as "All-Purpose" fertilizers. They supply nutrients in the ratio found in plant tissues AND in the ratio in which plants use them. They offer you your best opportunity at keeping your salt levels as low as possible w/o nutritional deficiencies, which is a very good thing. That is a strategy woven into the nutritional supplementation of all commercial growing ops. Al...See More
How many leaves do I need?Comments (16)How many you need depends on what you intend to do with them. You should have about 5 to 8 percent organic matter in your soil and if you are starting from scratch with very little that takes a lot of leaves. If you are planning on using those leaves as a mulch you need enough so after most of the air is moved out the leaves are 3 to 4 inches thick, and that is a lot. I find that no matter how many I accumulate I can always use more....See More
How many lights do I need in my kitchen?Comments (11)One thing that might be confusing (is to me at least), basing the lumens needed on the overall kitchen dimensions. I wonder if the space on the one wall taken up by cabinets, pantry and frig should have been deducted? Because there really isn't any floor/ceiling/counter/wall to illuminate in that area. But I am pretty sure that you do count counter area even though there are also cabinets-- you want to illuminate the interior of the cabinets a bit when opened also. But yes, you do count any oversink light and UCLs in the total lumens. Based on that calculation, I did overdo it -- I could have eliminated 2 of the ceiling cans. I did install a dimmer after I saw all the brightness....See More
handymac5 years ago
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