I am going to put this here so other newbies can learn from this post also. 1) cuttings... most people dont bother with cuttings from datura because they come true from seed. 2) Varigation, it could be that your plant has something it its genes for the varigation but if you want to market that varigation then most societies want to have the varigation in the seedlings for at least 3 generations and then you have to name it and get it listed with the brug societies. For the pollination, well, nature usually takes care of itself, usually early morning or late evening bugs will do the job. It will always be an annual, the difference between an annual and a perennial is that an annual will die in our winters but a perennial will die to the ground but resprout in the spring. I killed my triple yellow datura last year.. good thing I got seeds! Here is a link for you to start.. good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: American Brugmansia/Datura Society

"Any ideas on maybe a three season plant that could be used to add some structure to the beds" Pat_tea, I don't know what zone you are in but it's likely warmer than my zone 3. I have a curved path through a perennial bed and have used Dusty Miller with Munstead Lavender behind and between on one side of the path and the Dusty Miller with perennial flax on the other side. I'd have used all lavender but the flax is hardier and I may have to replace all the lavender with flax later if some don't survive the winter. I've been quite pleased with this and would post pics except I've been too busy gardening this year to deal with the pics I've taken. The Dusty Miller is not successfully perennial here but certainly looks very good for 3 seasons. Might be perennial in your zone. Perennial flax is really only 2 seasons as needs deadheading in August otherwise one has a million of them. Lavender is still looking reasonably good here and I've been lucky with it as it's not reliably hardy in this zone. Another plant I like along pathways is Walkers Low Catmint. I first saw this on Freda's blog and loved it. See the link below and other catmint links there. I've propagated my WL but still don't have enough plants to edge the path. Will take more slips in the spring to make more plants and eventually may do the same as Freda. OK, back to the original question as to how to place plants evenly on both sides. What I did was to measure to find the center of each side of the path. My path curves so these are not equal measurements. Then I found the middle point of each side and marked it. Then I took a stake which was approximately the distance I wanted the plants spaced which was *about* 18" and marked out from the center. I then fiddled with it until it worked out fairly well at each end. I'm not a perfectionist in my garden so close enough WAS close enough. This particular perennial bed is somewhat raised from the lawn so I couldn't go too close to the end of the path but IMO it looks good. Hope that helps. :) Here is a link that might be useful: Have I Told You Lately That I Love Catmint?

I have had some bare-root iris drying out in a cool room for about 3 weeks now (after their bleach bath) while I make a new bed for them....... Just went to check on them and on one iris, the middle fan has shot up about 4 inches. That's bare-root. Laying on the carpet. No dirt or water in site. Didn't realize they could do that...

well, rats, I realize now, it was to late to remove, when I tried. I never saw the edit button once I wanted to remove the post. Thanks Raven I will go and remove this post in a few minutes. :) Moni