I can't comment on what to plant in your area at this time but my first question would be whether you need to bring in new soil at all. Is there something clearly wrong with the soil that nature has provided? New vegetable gardeners can be seduced by marketeers into thinking they need to buy in all sorts of stuff which isn't necessary. 20 x 10 is not that big and could be dug over in a couple of hours.

Go for it!

All you need to check on the seed packages is the days to maturity. Keep in mind that that date is an estimate.

Really depends on the quality of the soil. New vegetable gardeners can be seduced by seed providers to buy all sorts of seeds that won't grow well in the soil they have. Certainly not too late, although if we're talking about soil needing heavy amendments, it could take some effort. I have pretty large empty areas that would simply not support any kind of quality vegetable growth.

I guess if you're just going to buy soil, no reason it wouldn't work. 200 square feet of SFG soil mix is going to be a very pricey proposition, however. If you have the energy and muscle-power, getting a load of compost dumped in your driveway, and digging that in might be smarter.

So if there is nothing wrong with the soil, and you need to bulk it up, certainly the best, and most economical, approach would be just digging in lots of compost.

The SFG soil mix is overly expensive for general garden/raised bed use and really not an ideal mix to begin with (for any number of reasons). Just add a quantity of compost as suggested above.

Brussel sprouts and most other crucifers are cool season crops. I would not plant them now in Sacramento, even from seed. You can start them in late summer to grow on through fall and into winter.

If you can still find starts for the melons and squash, go for it. Otherwise you should still be able to grow them to maturity from seed, even at this late date in the season.

SFG soil at Home Depot is $30 for 1.5 cubic feet. Gulp ... You have 200 square feet that you want to add 8 inches to the top of. That's 133 cubic feet of soil, which multiplies out to $4000. Double gulp ...

Decent compost can be had for $30/cubic yard. 133 cubic feet of content is about 5 cubic yards. That multiplies out to $150.

Take your pick. If your soil is decent, adding compost will just make it extra decent.

SFG soil (aka, Mel's Mix) is large amounts of vermiculite, peat moss, and compost, and is more of a potting soil for container gardening.

You have still time for all three. Brussels sprouts may not fully develop.

So, what folks don't know is all the weather folks are in a tizzy because we have an extreme heat wave in the area (includes Sacramento) with expected "more than a 7 day run" of temps well over 100 (possibly to 112 midweek). Normally, you could start these plants now. You won't be able to keep a seed bed moist enough for germination given that you're in a pretty dry climate even without this excess heat. You can try plants knowing you'd have to baby them - water every morning and evening and if you can construct some temporary shade structure, do that. What happens with plants is they need enough solid root structure in the soil to bring moisture up that will evaporate from the leaves. Just keeping the soil moist without good roots doesn't do the trick. It may go back to 90s for you by the 24th. Although late, if there's hope the heat spell breaks you might be better off to wait for that.

We get weather like that most of the summer. In fact, it started two weeks ago. Putting out started plants is no big deal but yes, you have to water them once a day for a few days. I just put out a bunch of basil starts and some squash starts, and they're doing dandy. Keeping a seed bed moist is indeed some effort, but that's what newsprint is for.

I'm getting "garden soil" from a landscape supply at about $48.00 per cubic yard. (That's a lot more soil than you would think.) It is a bit course compared to "top soil" or "fill dirt" grades. Local soil in this part of central Alabama is high in clay,,,,low in sand and needs organics added to make real rich loamy garden mix. The "garden soil" I put in my beds has chunks of decomposing wood in it,,,like a said, "course." Adding some bagged sand/potting soil/peat moss and "compost" made from kitchen organics like coffee/tea/leftover vegitables/egg shells etc helps tremendously. "NO MEAT" in compost but grass clippings and fresh animal manure is okay. Manure needs time to decompose in the compost pile like 3 to 6 months depending on temperture, humidity, how often you turn it, worms etc. Bagged processed manure can be worked into soil but "never" put "fresh" manure (especially chicken) directly on crops/in soil as the high nitrogen content will "burn" the plants. (The only exception to that is rabbit manure/pellets.) Another option to consider is fill the 10x20 with 15 to 20 five gallon buckets spread a foot to 18 inch apart. That "container" or potted plant plan has "some" advantages, like keeping plant types seperate. Free buckets or black plastic growing pots can be found. The soil from these containers can be used "next season" as a base to mix/expand the entire raised bed to your desired depth. Great soil isn't cheap so aquiring it over 2 seasons isn't a bad consideration on my budget. Once your plants are in and over transplant shock,,,,I highly recommend mulch. Spread on top of your soil it prevents weeds and grass seed growth AND it reduces the need to water as much. Good luck!

The different flavors of compost are mainly distinguished by their nutrient content. That being said, be aware that compost is NOT fertilizer. The nutrients in compost are released very slowly as soil bacteria acts on it. Compost is mainly a soil amendment that improves soil structure. If you have good soil, and just want to bulk it up, just get inexpensive stuff like composted shredded leaves and ground wood. Your municipality may offer that free. If you get manure compost, be VERY SURE that the feed used was not contaminated with herbicide. That herbicide goes right through their digestive systems and lands on your plants. This is happening in many locales, and farmers and gardeners are pulling their hair out in frustration.

Once you have melons, just keep them off the moist soil. Blocks of wood, tiles, or tuna fish cans work great. You might sprinkle diatomaceous earth around the fruit to discourage soil pests.

Looking ahead, if this is a new garden bed, and you have little gardening experience, by all means get your soil professionally tested. It's not expensive. Or if you have neighbors who do gardening, find out what deficiencies they've been facing in their soil. The scattershot approach to fertilization is when you don't know what you're missing, and you try to hit everything. Your soil could look beautiful, and still have serious nutrient deficiencies.

This current heat wave might be a bit rough on starts, but if you keep them watered, a good percentage will survive. I recommend planting tomatoes (the peak of season in CA is August through until The first rains around Halloween, plenty of time left), both zucchini and winter squash, melons, corn, cucumbers, and eggplant, try planting Brussels sprouts in the fall,