Lyme test results - question
cheerful1_gw
6 years ago
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Chessie
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Soil test results-questions
Comments (14)Thanks for all the replies! I checked on a couple of things. I do not have enough wood ash to gather together enough to make a difference. From now on I will be collecting it after we burn. I went to several nurseries and found pelletized lime and pulverized lime. According to the package, the pelletized lime has to be soaked in with water for 30 minutes before tilling. I do not think my husband will want to make a huge mess with the tractor tilling in wet soil. LOL I did buy a 40 lb bag of pulverized lime. The package did not mention watering in before tilling. At one nursery, they had broken bags of Epsoma Bone meal 24 lbs for 1/2 price. I found two completely sealed and unopened bags and the nursery mentioned those were half price, too. I bought 48 pounds of bone meal for $24. It seemed like a good price. Also, I have access to horse manure. Since I have to wait an amount of time to add it after the lime, should I forget adding manure this spring and just wait until fall? I am thinking of adding lime now and then at the time of planting around April 15, I will use the bone meal for each planting hole along with a 10-10-10. Does that sound like a good plan? We are in he process of building a chicken coop so hopefully next year I will have some chicken manure....See MoreSoil Testing Results
Comments (5)Hopefully someone with lime experience will give you an authoritative answer, but off hand, 40 pounds seems like twice as much as you need at one time. I would split the amount for spring and fall. Lets say you have 2,000 square feet to cover at 20 pounds per 1,000. Lime comes in 40 pound bags so you'll use the entire bag to cover the 2,000 square feet. Start with 10 pounds of lime in the spreader and the setting mostly closed off. Then run over the lawn and see how you did. If you ran out of lime early, then estimate how many square feet you covered and how much is remaining. If you covered exactly 1/4 of the lawn, then the setting is exactly right. If you went over less than 1/4 of the lawn, then you need to close it off more. If you went over the entire lawn and had some left over, then you can open up the spreader to allow more to flow out. This is a trial and error method, but it is better than totally guessing. Estimate how much you have left over in the hopper and guess at a different setting. Once you have that setting, write it on the bag or somewhere in the garage so you can remember it for the fall. I would not sweat the fertilizer ratios. Just get sort of in the ballpark and follow the rate listed on the bag for your spreader model....See Moresoil test results & lawn care plan--help pls!
Comments (0)Hello all, I'm a first-time poster here in the Lawn Care forum. I'm an avid gardener but still consider myself a newbie--especially when it comes to lawns. I just got the results from my soil test from my local UT Extension & would appreciate your help with developing my plan for the coming seasons. The lawn I currently have is maybe 50% common Bermuda, which I hate and would like to eliminate. The remainder is probaby 25% tall fescue which I've overseeded and tried to keep the Bermuda from choking out, and the last 25% is weeds: crabgrass, dandelions, wild strawberries, and an awful lot of purple deadnettle in the winter. I had great results from overseeding in the fall last year. But I'd like to spread pre-emergent to prevent the forest of purple deadnettle I had last year. So when should I overseed fescue relative to spreading pre-emergent? Same sort of balancing act goes for spring... I need to spread pre-emergent for general broadleaf weeds, but would also like to try (for the first time) something to suppress the Bermuda. Will fall-seeded fescue be able to stand up to those herbicides in the spring? And would a fertilization schedule (which has been recommended by my county extension) need to be altered according to these factors? FYI: Irrigation is not an option outside of extreme circumstances. I don't have the infrastructure in place, nor the funds to put it there. And to be honest, no one around me has it either and (some of) their lawns look fantastic. I'm in Middle TN, slightly northwest of Nashville, zone 6B. Soil is mostly clay, but getting better as I mulch-mow grass & leaves into the turf. (This year I've been mowing at ~3.75" which has noticeably helped the fescue.) --- Soil Test results: (Note that I selected turf type as "Lawn, Cool Season". My rationale was that I want to know what helps the fescue the most--not what helps the Bermuda the most.) Water ph - 6.5 Phosphorus - 51 (high) Potassium - 183 (high) Calcuim - 1562 (sufficient) Magnesium - 142 (sufficient Recommendations: Lime is not recommended at this time. II. Medium Level Maintenance of an established lawn. Topdress annually Sept. 1 with 6.2 lbs of 16-4-8 or (other amounts of similar-ratio ferts here... I don't need to type them all out.) per 1000 sq ft. Topdress annually Oct 15 with 3.5 lbs and Mar 1 and Apr 15 with 1.75 lbs of 34-0-0 (or other similar ratio) per 1000 sq ft. If the fertilizer contains at least 30 percent slow-release form of nitrogen, the Mar and Apr applications can be combined as one application in March. --- So, ye masters of all things lawn care... any thoughts regarding the timing of: Fall overseeding Fall application of pre-emergent (mainly targeting deadnettle) Fall applications of fertilizer recommended by my county extension Spring application of fert recommended by extension Spring pre-emergent Spring application of (something like Fusliade or Acclaim?) for Bermuda suppression And one more noobish question... how can I tell which ferts are slow-release and which are not? Thanks in advance for answering my million questions. I've already learned so much from you guys; I'm just trying to tie it all together. :-) --Jon...See MoreWater Test Results/Filtration/Softener set-up question(s) -Lurker?
Comments (1)I assume you do not currently have a softener in place. Please confirm. I will try to go through your questions in order. Conductivity: This will always be higher than TDS. It has to do with they types of ions in your water. Your conductivity is on the high end of the scale based on your TDS, but not out of line. Other analysis: Do you have any rusty, brown, or black staining on fixtures? If so - test your water for iron and manganese. Sediment filtration: Two cartridge filters is certainly a viable option. Install them in parallel so that one cartridge may be changed without interrupting water supply to your home. Make sure to use 4" diameter, not 2". Big Blue is a very reliable brand. I like the clear housings for a visible indicator, but that is just my personal preference. All cartridge filters are a pain to change. If you currently have to make frequent cartridge changes you may wish to consider a backwashing sediment filter instead of cartridges. It would be similar in appearance to a softener, but pretty much no work on your part to operate. Softeners: Kinetico softeners are very reliable, but expensive (as you mentioned). If you are willing to spend the money up front and like your local dealer, they would be a good choice. Regeneration time is not an issue with any twin-tank softener, whether Kinetico or Fleck, since one tank is always available to provide soft water while the other is being regenerated. A Fleck of Clack twin tank softener would take up significantly more space than a Kinetico because you would have to purchase a larger softener to accommodate the higher flow rate for your jacuzzi tub. Sprinkler system: Yes, bypass the sprinkler system. There is no sense paying to soften all that extra water. RO: Any RO system will last longer if fed softened water. The minerals you get from water are in minute quantities - even heavily mineral laden water would be insufficient to provide the minerals your body needs. Additionally, your water has nitrates. If you want them removed from your drinking water, RO is the only reasonable way to do so. Why do you want a carbon filter? What, specifically, do you want removed from your water? Certainly two would be overkill. Once may be as well, unless you have a specific contaminant in mind. Softener bypass: Here is a picture of what a three-valve bypass should look like. And a drawing of a setup:...See Morekitasei
6 years agoChessie
6 years agokitasei
6 years agoAR Ar
5 years ago
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