Lyme test results - question
9 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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Soil test results-questions
Comments (14)Thanks for all the replies! I checked on a couple of things. I do not have enough wood ash to gather together enough to make a difference. From now on I will be collecting it after we burn. I went to several nurseries and found pelletized lime and pulverized lime. According to the package, the pelletized lime has to be soaked in with water for 30 minutes before tilling. I do not think my husband will want to make a huge mess with the tractor tilling in wet soil. LOL I did buy a 40 lb bag of pulverized lime. The package did not mention watering in before tilling. At one nursery, they had broken bags of Epsoma Bone meal 24 lbs for 1/2 price. I found two completely sealed and unopened bags and the nursery mentioned those were half price, too. I bought 48 pounds of bone meal for $24. It seemed like a good price. Also, I have access to horse manure. Since I have to wait an amount of time to add it after the lime, should I forget adding manure this spring and just wait until fall? I am thinking of adding lime now and then at the time of planting around April 15, I will use the bone meal for each planting hole along with a 10-10-10. Does that sound like a good plan? We are in he process of building a chicken coop so hopefully next year I will have some chicken manure....See MoreSoil Testing Results
Comments (5)Hopefully someone with lime experience will give you an authoritative answer, but off hand, 40 pounds seems like twice as much as you need at one time. I would split the amount for spring and fall. Lets say you have 2,000 square feet to cover at 20 pounds per 1,000. Lime comes in 40 pound bags so you'll use the entire bag to cover the 2,000 square feet. Start with 10 pounds of lime in the spreader and the setting mostly closed off. Then run over the lawn and see how you did. If you ran out of lime early, then estimate how many square feet you covered and how much is remaining. If you covered exactly 1/4 of the lawn, then the setting is exactly right. If you went over less than 1/4 of the lawn, then you need to close it off more. If you went over the entire lawn and had some left over, then you can open up the spreader to allow more to flow out. This is a trial and error method, but it is better than totally guessing. Estimate how much you have left over in the hopper and guess at a different setting. Once you have that setting, write it on the bag or somewhere in the garage so you can remember it for the fall. I would not sweat the fertilizer ratios. Just get sort of in the ballpark and follow the rate listed on the bag for your spreader model....See Moresoil for grass, with soil test results
Comments (18)toxcrusadr-- the *path* is supposedly 8' wide, not the spreader. And the path does seem to be... I didn't stop to measure it though : ) If that sounds funny though, I wonder if that's why I ran out of fertilizer sooner than I expected to... I'm not sure I'm up to all that calculating-- can I assume though that the higher the number, the more grains it puts out at once? The people at the store (who seem very knowledgeable, I mean) said that I want one bag to cover a quarter acre. Which I think is about the amount of grass we have, maybe a bit more. We have a tiny bit over a half acre total but that of course includes the house/pool/driveway/pavers out back etc. Regardless, that bag lasted for a bout 1/3 of my grass. I went back for 2 more bags and changed the setting on the spreader-- think from 8 to 6 and got some more range out of it. Still had to open the third bag though. Sigh. Maybe I should look for a highly rated spreader and buy that. This one was borrowed from my brother-in-law and I think I have found it online and if I'm right about which it is (the Scotts classic drop spreader), I see that it gets bad reviews, lots of them. Same reasons. I'm learning a lot of lessons lately, the hard way... Isn't that supposed to be the best way though? Or something. Oh and just FYI, that's only one of several bare patches. And there are plenty of weeds, trust me. It's hard to tell from this one picture but they are everywhere, all kinds. Some areas have less but some areas are also straight weeds so it all balances out, ha....See MoreLogan Labs test results - could use some assistance reading results
Comments (24)SOP's fine to go down on damp grass, and you can do it now if you want. Really, you're barely off-cycle for an app I scheduled for October 15th. Always read my dates as "somewhere kind of around this date if that's convenient for you." We can always revise the schedule if things really get off-track. Bermuda doesn't require heavy synthetic winterization and the process can actually cause damage the following spring and summer. Greening's unlikely at this point if growth has slowed significantly. However, I don't recommend keeping soybean meal (or any grain) around over the winter as the stuff is a beacon to mice and other less-pleasant rodents. Lighter organic winterization practices won't harm Bermuda, so I'd put it down. If you have shrubs, gardens, or trees, this stuff would also be very good for them at this point in the season as well. I dropped my last organics on October first (in Pennsylvania), being very certain to strike the Thuja, lilacs, trees, and other shrubs with the stuff pretty heavily....See More- 8 years ago
- 8 years ago
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- 7 years ago
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