Be careful with 'plant lights'. Some companies use that term for lights that especially accentuate a rich green color of the plants, thus used for visual effect rather than plant health. Check the box to see if it mentions anything about spectrum. 6400K or 6500K grow lights are better for plants' health and growth. And a light reflecting unit is helpful too. Here is what I mean: Green Thumb clamp-on CFL Growlight SunB 26w 6400k cfl bulb ez

The Bl'urple (short for bloomin' purple) LED grow lights are excellent for anything you want to promote blooming/blossoming. I think the primary market for those is the "medical flowers" and "recreational flowers" growers. For something you don't want to bloom a lot, a plain white light (LED or CFL or fluorescent tubes) work as well or better than the bl'urple lights. That's especially true for annual leafy herbs like basil and cilantro. Those will bolt quickly under the bl'urple "LED grow lights." For white lights of any kind, a higher "CRI" (color rendering index) is better. Your plants will not just look better under high CRI lighting, the spectrum is more even and they will grow better. This past winter, in my basement garden, I also tried some blue/white "aquarium lights." Those did fairly well for my leafy herbs and a few other non-blooming plants I had under them. White LED bulbs/tubes were so much more economical, and the growth under the "LED aquarium lights" wasn't significantly better than under good white LED lights. Brighter is always better. You'll never find a light that is even close to natural sunlight. Find a sunny spot on the floor at mid day, hold your hand out so you can see your shadow on the floor. Point one of your lights at the shadow of your hand and turn it on (about the distance from the floor that you'd place it from your plants). If your shadow is still visible, the light isn't as bright as natural sunlight.

Nice plants. Good for you for knowing their names. I'm new to succulents myself but will share what I have learned here. Reading other postings is very helpful in learning. I assume that larger front pot has a hole in the bottom. I like the aeonium pot best because it isn't too tall. If pots are too tall, there is too much soil in the bottom where roots do not reach. Most established growers here are not fond of commercial cactus and succulent mix unless it is heavily amended with perlite or pumice (often available from places which sell the potting mix). For your plants to survive, you will have to be very cautious and use that meter judiciously because the commercial mix you are using holds more water than the preferred fast draining mix. Even though it looks very nice, personally I am not fond of top dressing as you have done with the sand because I believe it keeps the potting mix damp longer. As for the plant on the far right, aeonium kiwi (a favorite of many here), it will be dormant in the summer heat. Not sure how that will affect it for your conditions since it is inside, but keep in mind that they are looking to rest in the summer. Have fun with your new plants!

Hi, I see that many of your Crassulaceans (Sedums, Echeverias, etc.) are severely etiolated. Obviously they are in desperate need of increased light, but your setup seems sufficient. Do you know how potent your growing lamps are? How many hours per day they are on? How close they are to each plant? Knowing this would help because this seems to be a light issue over anything else. Do you have access to windowsills or the outdoors? All of my succulents are faced to western or southern windows (inside), and there have been no light problems (and I'm on the East Coast!). Also, you should not worry about overwatering-- it all depends on your soil mixture. Bonsai Jack (which you had mentioned) has a great gritty mix that was designed for succulents. It is good for beginners, as it is almost impossible to overwater while using it. Using your current setup, do NOT fertilize. Never fertilize when the plants are not getting sufficient sun, as they will grow more etiolated without proper light conditions. And in regards to the C. lehmanii, it is normal for it not to look instantly better overnight. I have many mesembs, and watering when they are severely wrinkled is a gradual process. They must have continual soakings (but let the pot air out before each one) to be restored back to turgidity.