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Refinishing Hardwood floors with no sanding

6 years ago

I am buying a house that was built in 1900 with some hardwood floors that are in good shape but need some cleaning. Is there anything out there I can use on my own that doesn't require me to rent a sander? The floors really just need a cleaning and there are few spots they got a little paint on it. No physical issues and they don't even squeak. The rooms I want to do is the Master Bedroom Size: 16 x 14, Bedroom 2 Size: 16 x 15, and the Living Room Size: 19 x 12. Due to the size I am sure that would cost a few thousand just to do a basic sanding.

Featured Answer

gregmills_gw

6 years ago

any idea when the last time the floors were refinished? the type of finish that is currently on they can potentially determine the type of cleaning product needed to refreshen the look.

Comments (8)

wjacobs359
Original Author
6 years ago
No not yet, the closing date is June 30th and then I can see if I can figure out the finish
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Even without knowing the kind of wood or condition, I can't imagine replacing wood flooring in an 1890 home. In my opinion, the value is in the original material. If the floor is in good condition, it may not need sanding at all; a screening and recoat might be all that's necessary and the patina would be retained. There are many threads on this topic, try searching the Old House forum. I live in a converted schoolhouse built in 1890. The fir floors had been covered with layers of linoleum, glue, paint ... they were a mess.. but looked awesome after refinishing. That was years ago and I'm planning to have them screened soon (aka buff and recoat.) What kind of wood is it? Do you have photos?
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If the cloudiness and scratches are from sanding-- then yes, the third coat will resolve it. Be sure to vacuum thoroughly w/ powerful vac (including walls and everything to eliminate all dust) then go over floor w/ tack cloth to pick up every last bit of dust. Also make sure applicator pad is absolutely clean--vacuuming it can help.
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It looks like those floors have been recently refinished. The gloss level appears to be matte. That is a look that is hyper trendy. This trend has been going for the last 5-10 years (depending on where you are). The orange looks very good with the CEILING and the gold/orange trim. You will notice how much the new gray walls clash with the orange trim and the ceilings. For me the gray/orange combo that you have causes my vision to vibrate. That tells me the clash is in the extreme range. It reminds me of the purple/green combination. I'm sorry but if you want gray in this home, you are going to have to change the following: 1. The stone fireplace - the stone is clashing (just a snick) with the gray you have chosen 2. The ceiling - the yellow is clashing with the gray walls (but working 'OKish' with the current fireplace) 3. The deep orange wood floor - this is a big clash with the deep gray on the wall. These are expensive changes. To refinish a wood ceiling takes ++ effort from a professional (effort and time = very expensive). You either have to paint or stain it gray (not a good idea) to get it to work with the gray walls. The window trim is a P.I.T.A.! Again, it is time consuming and expensive. This has to be done to get the dark gray paint to work. The fieldstone fireplace is a subdued 'mortar gray' with hints of orange in it. Believe it or not, the mortar gray is starting clashing with the dark gray on the walls. And then there is the dark orange floors. If you want any gray in that room to work, you must redo the floors. Or you can change the dark gray to something more complimentary to the orange tones in the home. I'm not saying the mint green was a nice option...but there are better options than this stark gray colour. If you find the right gray, you can leave all the other items alone. But the dark gray you have chosen is not working with anything in this home.
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PRO
User
6 years ago
Did you want to do a spot-cleaning? Or something more extensive? We always recommend ammonia-free windex on all our hardwood floors. It's safe and won't react with the finish. (Assuming it's some kind of polyurethane finish) If you have something like a wax or an oil, those finishes usually have their own cleaning methods. But if its a poly, ammonia-free windex is a safe bet, it cleans really well, and won't harm your flooring in any way. Try using a dry swiffer and misting the ammonia free windex in front of it for a general cleaning.

The Flooring Blog- Hardwood floor care and maintenance
wjacobs359
Original Author
6 years ago
Thanks for the advice. I am pretty much just a cleaning really, they are in pretty good shape for being the age. it has a few paint spots here and there and I would like to give it a shine.
lazy_gardens
6 years ago
It's tedious, but not difficult, and hard on the knees.

Use those green scrubbing pads and mild soap and water (NOT any "oil soap") to get all the water soluble grunge off, rinsing and drying it as you go. Remove any tacks staples and other embedded junk as you go.

Then repeat with mineral spirits to get the stuff that is not water soluble.

You now have a clean floor ... if you want to hide scratches and refresh the color, wipe on a light coat of an oil-based stain that is close to one of the middle tones of the floor boards and wipe it off immediately.

You will have a floor that looks old but well cared for, and nothing you did makes it impossible to refinish later.

If you want a more durable fix, lightly sand the floor, working with the grain, then wipe on the stain and then do a couple of coats of varnish. I've had floors last 10 years with this "temporary fix".
User
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
No warranty with this comment!

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/transformations/wood-floor-transformations

My parents home had oak floors in the bedrooms. They had never been refinished. The house was 45 years old. The floors were in ok shape but dull and scratched. The finish was worn in the traffic patterns. There was discoloration from condensation by the glass doors.

I lived 1000 miles away and was doing what I could to get the house on the market. I didn't have time to rent the sander, etc. I thought I would try this kit, and if this product didn't work I would just hire it out.

The product worked.

Use AYOR.
PRO
WeShipFloors
6 years ago
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser will get off the paint.

Alan Ward
WeShipFloors.com
wjacobs359
Original Author
6 years ago
Thank you all for the advice, very helpful

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