worthy How deep did you drill the injection ports...I got conflicting instrtution from the guy who sold me this and on the product itself. The guy told me, [at BrockWhite Construtcion] to use a 3/8" bit,...he wanted to sell me a bit, I said that 3/8 looks too small when I seen the plastic port plugs, he said that these plugs..[about 5/8" diameter] will collapse when pounding in. Can you imagine...ruining the the ends of plugs! Fortunately the drill bit shank had a groove for a special hammer drill so I didn't buy it. Instruction on the product calls for 1/2" bit....that's more like it. He said to drill about 1" deep and gluing in the plug with anchor adhesive, question...I push pound the plug, large end in just below surface and glue the rest to the top including seal the surface on top..as I see in your picture. The instruction say, drill 4" deep on 45 degree [alternate] angle until you intersect crack...the guy said straight in. There is a picture on the instruction and the plugs are all straight in, the end of plastic ports are sticking out a fair amount, by this picture it look that these plugs are pushed about 3/4" deep. I don't really see it to drill 4" deep...if this product travels this good? QUESTION How did you drill and did this product come up on the next plug, 24" spacing? Did you inject water first?...they say it works better on wet cracks when Polyurethane getting in contact with moisture, it will foam and expand more. I'm ready to go but wanted to do this right, help is very much appreciated!

msgreatdeals, Thanks for your reply but I wish I read this first before sealing the 47 foot long crack (found some places were 1/4th & 1/2th but most of the crack was 1/16th & 1/8th wide)with flexible DRYLOCK masonery crack filler. Then I started to use the filler to fill in small holes in the three rooms but some of the bigger holes that were formed from removing the clumps of plaster that was not level or from removing the tackless would not fill so I went in the garage and found some cement filler that my friend used to fix the step going from the garage to the middle foyer. I wish I used this only for the holes. I hope I did not mess up. The installer has not called me back and I want him to arrive tomorrow ready to install the floor and not fixing the floor and not being able to finish and then the project dragging into next week. msgreatdeals, thanks for sharing about your concrete floor also. I hope your floor will be OK also with your epoxy repair. I did have some water damage from a leak in the Poland Spring Water coolor about 10 years ago. that is where the crack had started. I forgot about that! But all in all my concrete floor was very dry. There were fine cracks in the concrete floor in other places but they were small but I still used the sealant that is flexible to seal them also.

Are you in a northern climate? If so you would need frost footings. It will be an expensive proposition to excavate and pour footings. Also fixing the crack in the slab will be costly (if possible).

Did you say the wall needs to be two meters high? Please provide length. I agree with Geoffrey, but Keystone grid blocks and it's not going to be cheap for a two meter wall since ordinary Keystone blocks may not work; look at the specs. The following information is for a poured concrete wall. You may have already looked into these aspects but a garden/landscape type of wall will not work for a 2 meters tall retaining wall. Sure can be done but it simply cannot be straight up poured concrete wall, even if reinforced, due to huge passive earth pressures. To overcome earth pressures, a straight up wall will work only if anchored into the ground with steel I-beams inserted into the ground and reinforced with concrete and linked in between with planks or reinforced, pre-fab concrete blocks. For a two meter high wall a cantilever wall should be used but needs engineering and will be expensive. Moisture barrier such as KIM should most definitely be used with perhaps a 6 sac concrete mix, no doubt adding to cost. It can all be calculated. A properly designed concrete retaining wall, using correct materials, will resist cracking, maintain its looks and last for decades. A two meter high stone wall can also be built however needs to again follow a cantilever approach, will be quite deep if two meters high, to resist earth pressures else will need periodic and expensive maintainence.