I'm almost positive that there is drainage....in the re-pot pic, I think I can see the water that has drained out of the pot on the wood below....and then, of course, there's the matching saucer, which I wouldn't expect to see unless there were a drain hole. I'm also fairly certain that this is Pachira aquatica, and any rounded leaves (dead tips) are due to the cultural conditions in which its been grown. Josh

If your sticky substance is honeydew, which is what a lot of the typical "sucking" type pests excrete, you should beable to find the actual insects. You'll usually find them on the bottom side of the leaves, and in the tight joints where the leaf stems join the main stems. Be mindful that plants can excrete sap also, so glops of sticky stuff could be sap, and not honeydew. My Pachira does this, as well as a few other plants. As for your plant's decline, I suspect a light or watering issues. Pachira likes bright light, and will shed leaves if put in low light conditions. Also, overwatering and underwatering are big culprits of leaves that go from yellow to brown to floor. If you're using peat based soil, like Miracle Grow, you must know that after 6 months, it begins to break down, eventually turning into a very poorly draining soupy mess. This leads to a poor root system, which leads to rot. The plant then can't take up enough moisture, giving signs of underwatering. The typical response is to water more, which rots the roots more, until your plant dies. It'd be helpful to know your light situation, watering scheme, type of soil, fertilizing plan, etc. Joe

Geez, I'm hopeless today. I just accidentally closed my browser and lost a nice post with links and more info. Overwatering issues are the most common reason people come here for help, so learning how and when to water is critical. The best way to know whether a plant needs water is to push a sharpened dowel, wooden skewer, or disposable chopstick all the way through the soil to the bottom of the pot, and watering only when the dowel comes out dry to the touch. The next thing is controlling soil moisture with your choice of soil. Check out info in the links for info about 5:1:1 mix, which works well in houseplants. It needs watering more often than MG, but that's a good thing, because it provides a moist (not wet) environment for the roots, with lots of aeration so the roots can get oxygen from the air. This isn't a great time of year to do a full repot, because it's better to stress plants when there's ample sunlight to help them recover, but doing it now might be the best option, especially for the peace lily. The pachira might be able to wait until June if it's in good shape now, especially if you use 'ballast' to replace some of the soil at the bottom of the pot. I did this last fall with a sad plant that I had just put in an oversized pot of MGMC, and it recovered quickly and was in really decent shape by late spring. Give us more info and some photos that show the peace lily's condition, and what the root system looked like when you replanted it, because it sounds like it needs intervention sooner rather than later. Did you let the fine roots themselves completely dry out, or just some of the soil? It's okay if the roots stayed moist, but completely dry roots are dead roots, so I'm hoping that you didn't let the whole thing get bone dry. You'll know quickly if things are bad because the whole plant will wilt, but we can cross that bridge if we come to it. Here are a few links. Good Growing Practices Ficus Trees in Containers Dealing with Sick and Dying Plants

Please post pictures, how much do you water when you water? Is there drainage holes in the pot? I don't think your watering properly. You dont need to fertilize, I rarely do, a good potting mix has nutrients in it. Other members will have some thoughts. I just saw the picture you posted, if your using that meter for moisture, I don't recommend them, I find them useless, I use my finger or a chop stick to check for moisture.