Zebra STRIPES in lawn after Scotts Weed and Feed! Please help!
curlygirlie1189
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Terrie
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Heavy Rains after applying Weed & Feed
Comments (8)dchall... Yes... I know and have read all about the cons of W&F but I'm not sure what else to do. I live in the burbs with the lawn the size of a postage stamp and all I want it a nice lawn that doesn't break the bank and I don't have to drive all over town looking for specific products that I have no clue how to use... LOL If there are alternatives I can use that I can find at Home Depot, Lowes or WM.. then I'm all for it. Gas is $4 a gallon and I keep telling myself "It shouldn't be this hard or complicated. To answer your questions I haven't even turned on my sprinklers yet as mother nature has taken care of the watering needs so far this season. With TX being TX... I'm sure we'll be in a combo heat/drought wave soon enough and I know not to over water and let the grass tell me when it needs watering. Right now my mower is set one up from the lowest setting. If I take it down to the lowest setting.. I'll be hitting dirt in some places. Grass type... I'm assuming it's typical Bermuda... like I said I live in one of the new subdivisons that pop up overnight so I'm sure the builders just put in basic bermuda. I also wanted to say.. if my posts come off as mean or offensive... that's not my intention. Just getting really frustrated with this lawn thing. One person says the Scotts 4 step plan... another call it the devil......See MorePlease help with the weeds in lawn
Comments (0)We seeded the lawn from dirt after removing the old grass, mostly weeds. My backyard looks great however, my front is filled with weeds. We have a mix of seed that germinated two months ago with various patches that germinated about two weeks ago. How can I control the weeds in my front yard. They are starting to take over majority of our new lawn. We used Scott's weed and feed...it did not kill the grass but it didn't seem to do much with the weeds. I am located in the NY area. Please help...so much time, effort and money has been put forth and we are losing the battle to weeds in our front yard....See MoreWeed B Gon & Weed & Feed near new trees
Comments (21)I use Milorganite in the spring as well, for summer and fall I use the Scott's Turfbuilder product designed for that season. I am by no means a lawn expert though, these are just easy to find, relatively inexpensive products that do the job well enough for me. I'm confident you could kill the ivy (and not your trees) if you have the time and patience. Again I'd suggest trying the Weed B Gon Chickweed Clover & Oxalis concentrate in an Ortho Dial N' Spray hose end sprayer. Just pick a calm day and get down low to avoid spraying the tree trunks and leaves. If the ivy is anything like wild violet it will take a couple of applications but it will work eventually. Then like you mentioned you'll have to rake out the dead ivy and reseed the bare patches. But as others have said, a weed-free (or even weed sparse) lawn is a huge commitment so I don't blame you for hiring it out--if you can find someone to call you back. Last thing I'll say is that no matter how diligent you are about your own lawn, if your neighbors aren't equally diligent you will always have some of their dandelions, clover, ivy, etc. filtering into your lawn. So I've lowered my expectations and live with a semi-weed free lawn after 13+ years at my current house....See MoreLawn overseeding with weeds! Please Help!
Comments (3)Let's start with a lawn calendar. You've been off calendar so far. March/April - at the first sign of forsythia blooming in your neighborhood, use a preemergent herbicide. Mid April - spot spray broadleaf weeds (clover, dandelion, spurge, etc.) with something like Weed-b-Gon or Weed-b-Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer Late May - fertilize for the first time with a plain fertilizer, not weed n feed. Early September - fertilize for the second time, no weed n feed. About this same time you can overseed if you need to. Mid September - spot spray broadleaf weeds again Early October - evaluate your overseeding efforts to see if you need more seed. Late November - when the grass stops growing but before it changes color or you get a hard freeze, apply a high N fast release fertilizer like uncoated urea. Do not get tempted (by TV commercials) to seed in the spring, and don't get tempted to fertilize early. The late fall fertilizer will awaken the grass early in the spring and cause it to grow fast. If you miss the fall application of chemical fertilizer, you can apply any organic fertilizer at any time. Organics have a different way of fertilizing, so all the cautions go away. Don't bring in any new topsoil unless you have low spots you need to fill. Topsoil and sand will always change your drainage and often for the worse. The last thing you want to do is build a dam that holds water up against your home's foundation. Besides grass seed sprouts at the surface, not buried under a light app of topsoil. It will sprout under light soil, but if you don't need it, don't do it. For this upcoming overseed, I would get a tri-mix of Kentucky bluegrass, rye, and fescue. If that is what the Scott's product has then fine. The KBG and rye will do well in the full sun while the fescue excels in the shade. Overseed the entire yard to get the colors to blend in. The newer seed could be deeper green than your current turf. Mow the lawn at the mower's lowest setting, remove the loose grass, apply the seed, and press it down with a rented, water-fillable roller. Watering the tri-mix is a little tricky because the three seed types germinate at different times. First of all you water new seed to keep it moist, not soggy, all the time. Usually that means 10 minutes three times a day for 1, 2, and/or 3 weeks as follows. Rye comes first at one week. Fescue comes at 2 weeks and KBG takes 3 weeks. So if you watered for only one week, all you would get is rye grass with just a small bit of early germinating fescue. There would be no KBG. The KBG has the advantage of spreading to fill thin spots, but it has the disadvantage of sometimes turning brown in a harsh winter. Since you're new to this, here's more on watering mature grass after the seed is up and growing. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall. Mow at your mower's highest setting for most of the year....See MoreRyan
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