Water the soil and not the leaves as watering the leaves can promote fungal leaf diseases. Your aim is to keep the soil evenly moist, which is -obviouslly- hard to do. To tell when to water the soil for sure, use the finger method: insert a finger to a depth of 4" into the soil (the mulch does not count) and water if it feels almost dry or dry. Also mark on your wall calendar the days when you watered. To help maintain the soil moist, cover the root area with mulch, about 3-4" of any type of acidic mulch, up to drip line or a little beyond. Plants in sandy soil need about 1/3 to 1/2 more water than plants in clayish soil. Continue watering with the finger method for about 2 weeks. Then review the information on your wall calendar. Determine how often you water and set the sprinkler to do the same on the same frequency (every three/four/etc days). If temperatures change by 15 degrees or more and stay there, consider rechecking using the finger method. Beware of moisture and temperatures problems this winter. I live in Zone 8a and our winter temperatores fluctuate a lot. Temperatures can zoom to almost 80 and the crash to the 20-30s. We can also go over two weeks without moisture or we can get a little rain each week. This winter try to maintain the soil moist as best you can with the help of the winter method. During future winters, you can water much less than the finger method suggests because the plants are dormant and well established. But just because they are dormant, do not think you do not need to water. One dry winter season ago, I turned the sprinkler off and forgot. I suddendly noticed that most of my camellias started browning the leaves! Oops! The part that I cannot help you with is exactly how much to water to apply to the soil for plants of this size. I try to make sure that each watering will keep the soil moist to a depth of 14-18" but perhaps someone else can advise for such large rootballs. There is Coast South Carolina Camellia Society in Mount Pleasant that you can try to contact. Wesley Fisher is their president. You can reach them at (843) 388-0329, at wesfish@bellsouth.net or at the link below. Does that help you? Luis Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Coastal Carolina Camellia Society Website

Those are the cast off skins of aphids, all different sizes because they shed them several times from birth to adulthood.

Yeah that sounds like a good idea Sheila...I never thought of something like that? How do those work exactly? And Seil I didn't plant in cardboard as in 'packaging the Rose came in' I mean I had moving style boxes I broke down and then I wet them down really good to put under mulch along the slope to deter weeds. I made sure to leave about 5" or so around each plant bare with a little mulch. I did however leave the soil on it when I planted, I didn't try to make bareroot? You think that could've caused it? I just want to know how to save these ...also it rained last night...not sure how hard because it ended at least an hour or two before I woke up so when I stuck finger in soil down so deep that I had no finger left! It felt pretty moist all the way down...but idk how much rain feel so idk if that could happen from the rain we just had overnight? And today has been overcast with next to no sun all day..so sun wasn't out to dry it out.

We've been here in NorCal for over 40 years with PVC 3/4" sched 40 irrigation pipes. running everywhere. We've probably dug up most every shrub/tree twice over those years. Never, ever have seen any damage from roots to the pipes. The only damage to the pipes has been from our picaxe when we try to dig up old plants. But that is easily repaired. The roots just grow around them, as they would a rock in the soil. So, YES, fear not. Oh, and by the way, you can prune the Camellias to about any height. I have a bunch that are 7' tall espaliered against a fence. -Babka