I fear your bad timing is your biggest issue from what I have heard from other So. Calif growers. You'd be late planting now even for my zone and you are much further south in zone 9-10. I think you are still trying to use NE planting times and they aren't valid for your new location in any way.

Planted at the right time shade cloth shouldn't be necessary and shade cloth can just create other problems if used incorrectly. The sun isn't a threat to them but the air temps can be. So there again it is planting times so that they can set fruit before the high heat of summer and then again in the Fall that solves the problem, not shade.

Daily watering shouldn't be necessary either - even in the deep south - and that alone could be much of your problem with production. Daily shallow watering only results in shallow rooted plants that become water dependent just to stay alive much less produce. Variety shouldn't be an issue either since southern CA produces much of this country's commercial crops. But again they plant much earlier - like March-early April.

I'd suggest you do your research now with other local gardeners (and on the CA Gardening forum here) and plan on a Fall planting.

Dave

Many parts of Los Angeles don't have any frost at all, and the plantout times can easily be March or even February. But yes, once temps get up in the 90s, and don't cool off a lot at night, they won't set fruit. I'm a little surprised by your assessment of "sad growth". The growth should not be impeded by the heat. You may have some other problem. Daily watering? Why? You may have just ended up with root rot.

You might try for a fall crop, and plant out in July. You now have more than one growing season.

I've grown tomatoes in Orange and San Diego counties. I usually plant in March, but you can plant for a fall crop in June and July. They will only set fruit when temps are 65-85, but fruit will continue to ripen in hotter and colder weather. I picked tomatoes into January this year, until the rains started and the ripening fruit began cracking and rotting.

Poor growth can come from many factors. In my current location, I have nematodes (easily identified from the gnarled and node covered roots on failed plants). I get around this by planting varieties that are nematode resistant. You may also have nutrient deficiencies. Examining roots, taking foliage to a good nursery or a master gardener, or getting a soil test are all good ways to get information about possible nutrient deficiencies or disease. In general, with drip irrigation you'll have less foliar disease than the east coast, but nematodes and other soil borne diseases are a possibility in southern soils that don't freeze in the winter. I doubt that shade will help unless you live far inland and the eucalyptus may make things worse. Tomatoes don't set fruit when it's hot, but they generally respond with rampant growth given enough water. We might be able to help you, if you can post some pictures, including leaf close ups.

Thank you all for the advice. It looks like there is a lot I'm going to need to learn about for this new climate! I've never even heard of those pests.

I'm going to try for a July planting, water well but not as frequently and not use any shade. I'll plant a variety and see which do best for me.

I'll let you know how I do. Thanks again.

I'm in SoCal, Riverside County north of Temecula. I started planting out in Feb this year and covered for frost protection two or three times. I have been eating large tomatoes for a few weeks. Some tomatoes are better with heat than others and if your nights stay below 70 degrees as mine do you will likely still get some fruit set. Siux is good in heat as is a new cross called Flamenco, Porter, and most cherries. I don't have shade cloth but wish I did. I grow mostly in Earthboxes and container to avoid gophers.