Whitewashing a red oak floor makes it turns a bit pinkish, which I don't find attractive. It also won't work with the white cabinets. Also, when it wears off in high traffic areas it will look very unattractive, as you will see the original wood color there. Your floors don't have to be a dead blackish brown. They can be a beautiful deep mahogany color which will add life to the kitchen, and look very rich and elegant, especially with a beautiful sheen. That will be gorgeous with the white cabinets, and black counters.

The cheapest, easiest, fastest option = ignore it. If, after 6 months, it still bothers you, then see if there is a fix like was stated above (remove finish, water pop again and then apply finish once again). The beauty of oil finishes is you can do this without refinishing the entire floor. Personally I have no problem with it. I see three planks that have stayed blonde. This tells me the wood/cut is having plenty to do with this rather than technique. You have more projects than you have time right now. Ignore it - it can be fixed any time.

@Joe Macker. I added protective film to my windows to block UV rays from causing damage. The advantage is that this protects everything in my room. I had damage to my furniture - both cloth and wood from the light streaming in. I have an Eastern exposure. You can't tell that there is any kind of protective film on the windows as mine are not tinted - or tinted so slightly that there is almost no difference but they are rated for close to 99% blocking of the UV rays.

The only good thing to come out of Lumber Liquidators is litigation! I'm serious. LL has had SOOO MANY lawsuits (how many SJ?) that they have had to incorporate new installation requirements for DIY people (ie. non-professionals who THINK they can save money doing it by themselves). Here's what I'm talking about: https://www.lumberliquidators.com/assets/images/installation/bellawood.pdf LL has REALLY upped their game when it comes to their installation instructions. And to be clear, the 5" product rates as 'wide plank' and therefore needs either full glue or glue assist with nail in place. That makes this a much more expensive floor to install. And then there is the humidity control that you MUST HAVE for any wood...but wide plank, prefinished, LL stuff needs even more effort to have a happy wood floor. Sadly the wife has already spotted this (including the price point). It is going to take a small miracle to change her mind. Tell her the 'cheap stuff' gets very expensive...very quickly. Just looking at the close up of the wood sample (not the room shot...) you will see the SHORT ENDS do NOT sit properly. And that's their BEST photo for this product. Let's just say you have been warned and the photos on the internet are telling you there is a known issue. If it is in the advertising photo, you can expect it to be found in your flooring install.