This forum used to have some real experts in KBG varieties, but they have moved on. One thing you should know about seed is you get what you pay for. All the seed you see at the box stores has a component of weed and other crop in it. The percentage you see listed in the guaranteed analysis is by weight. The really bad news is good seed is heavy and weed seed is light. In fact the worst weeds, common bermuda and bentgrass, have seeds the size of dust. Those seeds weigh one eight-millionth of a pound - meaning a pound has 8 million seeds in it. In a 10-pound bag of good KBG you could have 0.10% weed and get a full lawn of weeds. More expensive seed will have 0.00% weed and other crop listed on the label. Most weeds can be gotten rid of but bermuda and bentgrass are toughies. I'd spend the money for better seed. It is usually sold online only. Another thing you should be aware of is that spring is a bad time of year to be seeding a lawn. Why? Because the crabgrass seed is sitting there waiting to get enough water to sprout. If you are watering enough for grass seed, that is more than enough for crabgrass seed. That is why fall is the recommended time of year to seed new grass. Crabgrass dies in the fall so you have all fall and winter to establish your turf before the crabgrass tries to return. Spring is also a poor time because the new grass roots don't have time to become established and able to resist the summer heat. You may dodge that bullet with your location. With those thoughts in mind, go ahead and seed now and hope for the best. Anything that happens can be corrected in the fall. Please don't till your soil before seeding. No matter what your soil is like, the best thing to do for it is to get grass growing. Clear off the current vegetation with a verticutter (power rake, slit seeder, or other similar tool). Blow or rake off the litter, scatter the seeds, roll them down, and water daily, 3x per day (10 minutes only), for 3 weeks. If you really want to improve the soil, look at the organic forum. If you don't care about that, then just be careful about using exactly the recommended amount of fertilizer on Memorial Day, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. Going too heavy with chemicals is much worse than going too light. With organics it is looking like the reverse of that advice.

Jackallenss, The author of the link is complaining about labelled bags of grass seed that don't specify what's in it. The purchaser has to read the contents carefully to know what they're getting. If the bag is labelled tall fescue, it will contain tall fescue. All the more reason to avoid something called 'contractors mix'. It's not clear what it contains. I think what you and Ibanez don't understand is pennington, scotts, etc... don't actualy produce grass seed. They buy it from seed farms and package it. They sell many different cultivar mixes, so you can't say their seed is good or bad, you can merely state that a particular cultivar that their bags contain may be good or bad. What they have in their bags tends to vary from year to year based on availibility and price. When I buy seed, I always read the label. While I haven't memorized the stats for every fescue seed, there are a few common ones that do well for me and I tend to buy them. For example, scotts uses wolfpack and tar heel. Both have done well for me in the past, so I'll look for them. I've had bad luck with rebels, so I avoid it.

Thanks for providing a photo. The weed grass is the only thing I see from the picture and is what I call 'winter grass'. It is an annual, which means it grows from seed each year. It will die when the hot weather sets in, but only after it scatters it's seeds for next year. In the meantime it will have shaded out what St. Augustine grass there is and it will take a while to fill back in. Plus you will still have the dead clumps to deal with. Pulling it out clump by clump is what I did, but if you don't have the time and inclination to pull it out you can try keeping it mowed very close to keep it from going to seed, but that will not work 100% of the time because it seems the seeds will just grow horizonally below mower height and then they would still have to be pulled. It's a tenacious little bugger to get rid of. Little clumps will keep coming up and going to seed. You really have to keep after it for a couple of years. This coming fall you can spread some pre-emergent weed killer at the proper time, around the end of September I think, and this will help to keep the seeds from germinating, but you'll still have to pull a few clumps as soon as you see them. Now is the time to spread compost and Fertile Garden on Leslie Rd. is the recommended place to get it. They have several compost mixtures for grass. You can talk to them and see what is recommended for your conditions. If you have pretty good soil already you can probably get by with spreading an organic fertilizer such as fifty pounds of soy bean meal per 1000 sq. feet of lawn. Looks like you have the makings there for a beautiful expansive lawn. Hope this give you a few ideas on how to proceed. If you post your pictures and questions on the 'discussions' forum, which is more widely read, you will get some more answers. Scroll around on the link below for 'Turf Grass' for additional information. Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Answers ...

Nutsedge is what ya got . 'Ortho nutsedge killer' at Home depot , and it may need repeat sprays each year. If they don't have that particular Ortho product at your home depot , you can order it on-line and have it delivered to your store for free. Get the one with the hose end sprayer . Your probably going to have to re-seed again in the fall........depending on where you live, make sure you seed at least 6 weeks before the first average frost date.