SOS pads, and re-usable containers
9 years ago
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How to tell when compost is usable
Comments (32)I'm late with this reply to entry by JamesMarconnet 7 (My Page) on Sun, Jul 8, 12 at 6:21 I too have a ComposT-Twin. Although their advertisements (like those of other mfgrs) says you can make compost in 14 days. It's Hooey! For me, a batch takes at least 6-10 weeks. Just because it's brown and crumbly doesn't mean it's ready. If I can still recognize the source of a high percentage of pieces, it's not ready. I used to put the compost in a pile for another several months before use. There is a difference between what comes out of the bin after 2 weeks, six weeks, and several months. I finally was able to get ahead of my needs and "stock pile" enough compost that it could "finish" before I put it into the square foot garden. Without testing, I believed the aged compost was better than that fresh out of the composter. In the mean time, I have acquired three or four 39 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans. I put the compost into those bins, thereby keeping seed contamination to a minimum. It doesn't dry out, and rain is not leaching out anything. I screen it out of those bins into another bin, and use it from here. The screenings are dumped back into the composter. Following this protocol, I get in five or six batches per year. With regard to your tomato plants going yellow, I had the same problem in my earthboxes. I added a couple of tablespoons of bloodmeal (12-0-0) as a top dressing. Over the next week, everything went green. Obviously the plants were starved for nutrition. One plant is very lush green, and my concern now is that I over-added Nitrogen. Time will tell. One nice thing about bloodmeal is it takes a lot to burn a plant. Nitrogen is consumed in the composting process. I don't know what you're composting, but wood, sticks, and sawdust consume a great deal of nitrogen. If it's not completed, when you apply it to your plants, it will get that Nitrogen from the soil, robbing that Nitrogen from the plants....See MoreFriend's mom left behind canning supplies - are they usable?
Comments (4)Well, I wouldn't try to use the pectin, it's outdated and might not produce a jell. It might be fine, but I'd hate to waste a whole batch of fruit gambling on that. The Fruit Fresh I'd probably use. it's just ascorbic acid to keep fruit from browning, you could try just a little on a piee of fruit and see how it works, then decide whether to toss it or pitch it. The pickle mixes I'd probably toss, although they would be safe. The spices have probably lost a great deal of their flavor, and so your quality would not be as good as with fresh stuff. Again, not a safety issue, so that's up to you. Finally, the pickling lime, I think is probably fine. It doesn't spoil, I don't think. None of those things are "necessary" for canning. I use vitamin c tablets dissolved in water in place of fruit fresh and pickles get made "from scratch" with pickling spices. I never use commercial pectin because it takes too much sugar and is too inconsistent, I use a longer cooking method. I can't speak for the pickling lime, my pickles are horrible, LOL. Lots of people do use those things and they are very handy to have on hand (and expensive to purchase), so I'd see what I could salvage if I were you. Annie...See MoreNeed ideas for re-usable grocery bag storage
Comments (34)I keep plastic bags tucked into empty paper tissue boxes. I find the "boutique" size is the easiest to store. Then I scatter them around the house in bathrooms, closets,etc and in the car. A surprising number of plastic grocery bags can be stuffed into one empty tissue bag. Years ago I bought a bunch of little plastic trash cans that are made to reuse plastic grocery bags. A link for something like them is below. I'll be the first to admit, they are not "decorative" but by now, everyone "gets" the point. I can loop 4 or five bags in each can, one inside the other. It makes it so easy to collect the trash from bedrooms, bathrooms, the office and laundry room. Here is a link that might be useful: Trash can for reusing plastic grocery bags...See MoreShowplace drawers & usable space: need help on a weekend!
Comments (11)Ann: thanks very much! So, it sounds like you had SP customize their typical/stock 4-drawer to your current configuration: can you please tell me how much usable vertical space you have in your bottom 7" drawer (measured from the inside bottom of the drawer to the top of the drawer opening itself)? TIA. jakuval: busy is good, I'd imagine, in your line of work! :) I just saw your edit: I, too, asked about removing intermediate rails on SP cabs, and was told this could not be done (by both SP and KD). KD told me this is because the Blum hardware attaches to the rail itself...is that correct? SP didn't give an explanation - they said to talk to my KD. Can you confirm? From what I can see (correct me if I'm seeing these wrong), the back end of the hardware attaches to the back wall of the cabinet box itself (I think this is actually a view of the heavy duty Blum, but I think the standard Blum also attaches similarly): And the front portion of the glide hardware actually attaches beneath the drawer itself: So, the front end of the hardware doesn't attach to any part of the cabinet box itself. Any idea why SP would not remove at least one intermediate rail? That would certainly allow us to pick up 1-1/2" of usable height! Also, given the rear box attachment, does this mean I need to have the rear box reinforced for any cabinet box that might house a heavy duty Blum drawer? Also, RIR? (I tried googling this one, but couldn't come up with anything I thought might be relevant to cabinets.) Drawers vs cabinets: I'm using both judiciously, thanks. So far, it does appear that I would be served best by going with mostly drawers. Have spent the past 24 years reaching back into a 24" deep cab space, unstacking, re-nesting, etc., I'm ready for a change -- it'll also force me to purge/donate items I don't need any more. I see the utility of pullout trays, but I just know around here, trays will be yanked out to partially open doors, and I'll end up with scratched up doors. Completely agree about not stacking items in drawers: any anticipated 14-16" bottom drawers (I have a few) will accommodate baking dishes/casseroles, etc. tilted on their sides. Did not realize that I have leeway to use 1/16" increments! Sooo good to know: I thought I was stuck working in 3"s. Seems like I've been doing nothing but fiddling with my spreadsheet and drawer/cab specs lately, and am going a bit bonkers. Trying to keep perspective (a la seeing the forest for the trees), but one does easily get mired! Combined cabinets: didn't have a clue about this! Backing up, is it possible to combine cabinets AND incorporate drawers? For example, I've got two side-by-side 36"s cabs planned, each containing three drawers. I can actually order, say, a single 72" cabinet (with one center stile @ the 36" mark), with six drawers, and this would be less expensive than the two 36" cabinet set up? Is there any downside I should be aware of? (We're going with granite countertops.) I'll also have a 27w 3-drawer cab to the left of my 36w sink cabinet: am I able to combine those two into one space, effectively eliminating the wall between the two spaces? It would greatly open up the undersink area for DH to work: our RO filter/tanks are housed under there, and he would appreciate the extra workspace. Thanks so much, if you have time to reply....See More- 9 years ago
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