SOS pads, and re-usable containers
9 years ago
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Container soils and water in containers (cont.)
Comments (150)Philoz, I used Air-Pots last year. I used them only for rooting (which will change this year) but they come in sizes to 120 gallons. One of the nice things about them is they are shipped flat. Therefore, the assembly involves one to wrap the flat sheet and secure it with a "fixing" (in my case its something very similar to what holds the upholstery into your automobile sheet metal.) When it is time to repot/root-prune, you can remove the fixing, and unwrap the container from around your tree in place. This is necessary because of the design of the container, but it comes in handy for other reasons as well. The overall design of the container is suppose to prevent (or at least minimize) many root problems associated with container growth. I found it to be moderately successful. I posted on the use of the pots in this forum. I think I just titled it "Air-Pots". I seem to remember a distributor in Australia. good luck, ~james...See MoreNeed ideas for re-usable grocery bag storage
Comments (34)I keep plastic bags tucked into empty paper tissue boxes. I find the "boutique" size is the easiest to store. Then I scatter them around the house in bathrooms, closets,etc and in the car. A surprising number of plastic grocery bags can be stuffed into one empty tissue bag. Years ago I bought a bunch of little plastic trash cans that are made to reuse plastic grocery bags. A link for something like them is below. I'll be the first to admit, they are not "decorative" but by now, everyone "gets" the point. I can loop 4 or five bags in each can, one inside the other. It makes it so easy to collect the trash from bedrooms, bathrooms, the office and laundry room. Here is a link that might be useful: Trash can for reusing plastic grocery bags...See MoreShowplace drawers & usable space: need help on a weekend!
Comments (11)Ann: thanks very much! So, it sounds like you had SP customize their typical/stock 4-drawer to your current configuration: can you please tell me how much usable vertical space you have in your bottom 7" drawer (measured from the inside bottom of the drawer to the top of the drawer opening itself)? TIA. jakuval: busy is good, I'd imagine, in your line of work! :) I just saw your edit: I, too, asked about removing intermediate rails on SP cabs, and was told this could not be done (by both SP and KD). KD told me this is because the Blum hardware attaches to the rail itself...is that correct? SP didn't give an explanation - they said to talk to my KD. Can you confirm? From what I can see (correct me if I'm seeing these wrong), the back end of the hardware attaches to the back wall of the cabinet box itself (I think this is actually a view of the heavy duty Blum, but I think the standard Blum also attaches similarly): And the front portion of the glide hardware actually attaches beneath the drawer itself: So, the front end of the hardware doesn't attach to any part of the cabinet box itself. Any idea why SP would not remove at least one intermediate rail? That would certainly allow us to pick up 1-1/2" of usable height! Also, given the rear box attachment, does this mean I need to have the rear box reinforced for any cabinet box that might house a heavy duty Blum drawer? Also, RIR? (I tried googling this one, but couldn't come up with anything I thought might be relevant to cabinets.) Drawers vs cabinets: I'm using both judiciously, thanks. So far, it does appear that I would be served best by going with mostly drawers. Have spent the past 24 years reaching back into a 24" deep cab space, unstacking, re-nesting, etc., I'm ready for a change -- it'll also force me to purge/donate items I don't need any more. I see the utility of pullout trays, but I just know around here, trays will be yanked out to partially open doors, and I'll end up with scratched up doors. Completely agree about not stacking items in drawers: any anticipated 14-16" bottom drawers (I have a few) will accommodate baking dishes/casseroles, etc. tilted on their sides. Did not realize that I have leeway to use 1/16" increments! Sooo good to know: I thought I was stuck working in 3"s. Seems like I've been doing nothing but fiddling with my spreadsheet and drawer/cab specs lately, and am going a bit bonkers. Trying to keep perspective (a la seeing the forest for the trees), but one does easily get mired! Combined cabinets: didn't have a clue about this! Backing up, is it possible to combine cabinets AND incorporate drawers? For example, I've got two side-by-side 36"s cabs planned, each containing three drawers. I can actually order, say, a single 72" cabinet (with one center stile @ the 36" mark), with six drawers, and this would be less expensive than the two 36" cabinet set up? Is there any downside I should be aware of? (We're going with granite countertops.) I'll also have a 27w 3-drawer cab to the left of my 36w sink cabinet: am I able to combine those two into one space, effectively eliminating the wall between the two spaces? It would greatly open up the undersink area for DH to work: our RO filter/tanks are housed under there, and he would appreciate the extra workspace. Thanks so much, if you have time to reply....See MoreNeed help making kitchen usable
Comments (33)You could get rolling Iris Pet Containers for the dog food. These would easily roll in and out of the closet that has the hatch to the crawl space. Iris Pet Containers at Amazon. If you have a local farm store, they might be cheaper there. Above the pet containers, you could put shelves in and use this closet as your pantry. You might want to install cleats on the wall for the shelves to set onto, so that if you do need to get into the crawlspace, the shelves would pop out easily and you could go down the hatch. If you stored larger items like crockpots and such on the lower shelves, then they wouldn't take too long to remove them when necessary. If you had the pantry in the closet, it would free up the wall where you currently have the black shelves. Then you would have space for more counter (baking area?) and upper and lower shelves, or the hutch or amoire you might find. You could also do this area from Ikea cabs or find used cabs that would fit here. Maybe a storage shelf could go between the toilet and the tub for the linens and bath storage, freeing up more of the other closet for pantry items, too. If you want to get more involved, you could move the stove around the corner, like below. The counter you have looks just like "black labrador," and if you have a Bargain Outlet near you, you could order the angled pieces fairly inexpensively to wrap the corner. It just depends on how involved you want to get and how much you want to spend in the interim. If you do slide the stove around the corner, it would be a good idea to have something between it and the doorway, for safety's sake. Although there are folks here who would attest to stoves being by doorways for years without implications... If you do this, you'll need a slightly smaller unit on the long wall to open up the walkway more. IMO, moving the stove like this would take you from dysfunctional kitchen to mild but tolerable wonkiness. :-) If you can't get the doors back on, curtains on the cabinets would be another option to visually calm the space. It also would go along withe Victorian-Industrial aesthetic. Drop cloths would be inexpensive, or Wal Mart has some very nice, reasonably priced prints right now if you think plain white curtains and your family might not mix....See More- 9 years ago
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