New build. Blank slate HELP!
brodyt
6 years ago
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trickyputt
6 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
6 years agoRelated Discussions
New 'blank slate' tropicalesque front yard ideas?
Comments (14)Lisa, actually I learned from one of our published resident experts here, Field Roebuck, our soils are anything but terrible. Our blackland prarie clay soil is actually the second most fertile land in the world, from accounts I've read. Many nutrients and micronutrients, usually a lack of organic material is all that's missing, and a lack of nitrogen. In any event, mix compost with your clay before planting. As for the tropical look, glad to see many peope are into it! I went whole hog into OGRs over the last 3 years, but have mixed in several tropicalesque plants, and overwintered 3 bouganvilleas and a hibiscus and several sago palms and a Chinese palm. Have a few more this year, and added a couple of Mexican fan palms. They will need wrapping in sub 32 degree weather, as I understand it. I also ordered several gingers, as roots, which came up, and 4 crinum lillies. I guess I'll find out how they take our summers and winters this year! The tall in back, medium in between, and short in front may sound common sensical, but is very good advise. And I have 'overplanted" in some areas, but I like having to find new homes for perrenials and other plants, and enjoying the full look that comes with dense planting. Anyway, good luck on your new adventure! Keep us updated on your progress....See MoreNeed help with dining room in new home. Blank slate waiting for help.
Comments (2)You are in "conversations." Will get much more feedback if you post in Home Decorating....See MoreNew Home - Blank Slate
Comments (27)Those pictures work. As I've mentioned previously, I would definitely do a return leg on the retaining wall, such that the grade no longer created an open end, inviting washing and erosion from behind the wall. Exactly how the layout goes would be something to figure out in plan view. From the front angle it doesn't looks as much like it's necessary to add a separate second wall above the first. An on site evaluation could determine just what's needed, but I wouldn't be adding retaining walls unless they were necessary. While it's commonplace as all get out, I consider it a shame when a nice house has a majorly underwhelming entrance area. Here, the steps are undersized. They ought to be at least as wide as the doorway assembly including the side lights. They would be dramatically upgraded if they were flanked by a blocky pair of cheekwalls that correlated with the column configuration. That necessitates widening the walk as it approaches the steps. But I think all the fuss and bother is worth it for elevating the entrance status and creating a dramatically more inviting one. In my planting scheme I'm suggesting only two shrubs (one per window), two small trees, the rest being perennials, with annuals flanking the steps, and groundcover linking everything up. If you wanted to busy up the planting scheme a little there's generally room for a little of that without making a mess of things, but subdividing and adding more is something that you'd figure out on a PLAN. I can only draw so much before too many things become covered up. I would imagine there is a high likelihood that two street trees (and maybe one at the left side of the drive if there's room) would be useful, but that would be determined from a picture taken at a distance that shows everything from the curb and back....See MoreBlank Slate New Build
Comments (9)To decide what you use for groundcovers, you will want to look at the whole picture, such as sun vs. shade, evergreen vs. deciduous, desired texture and maintenance level, soil pH and texture as well as zone. I have never gardened in zone 7, so the plants I would use might well be completely different than most of what you could use, but just to look at some examples of varying texture and color, look at these ideas, not as specific suggestions, but as examples of different feel or appearance. Heather/Callun; heath/Erica; Japanese forest grass/Hakonechloa macra (green, gold, or variegated); groundcover juniper from blue star to gold foliage types to plain green cultivars; sedges such as Carex pensylvanica, C. Ice Dance or various other native and nonnative varieties; Arctostaphylos uva-ursi/Bearberry or one of the groundcover cotoneasters; groundcover true Geraniums such as G. 'Biokovo' or 'Karmina'; Vinca minor, either solid or variegated; Veronica 'Georgia Blue'; Sedum(it now has a different name that I can't recall but most places still use Sedum) ranging from Angelina to Blue Pearl to Blue Spruce; Coreopsis verticillata; Symphyotrichum ericoides AKA Aster ericoides 'Snow Flurry'; common daylily/Hemerocallis fulva These are all groundcovers that would work in my area and some such as the heather wouldn't most likely be happy in most places, but I want you to look at a bunch of different groundcovers to decide what "look" appeals to you for your use and in your situation rather than starting with one type of plant that might or might not work aesthetically or practically in your setting. So type in the plant name and the word groundcover and then choose images to get a feel for some different looks. You can also visit local arboretums or botanical gardens or garden centers that have demonstration gardens to see what works in your area and particular growing conditions that might appeal to you. If you haven't had a basic soil test done to get pH and texture, do that before choosing plants so that you only look at plants that do well in the conditions you have. I have well drained, acid, somewhat sandy loam in a cold area, so my plant choices have to take that into account along with amount of moisture available either naturally or with irrigation and light levels. You (or someone you hire) will need to do the same evaluation for your site and then within site parameters choose plants that meet your aesthetic goals. As mentioned above, function and evaluation of site need to come first, then hardscape and longterm plants such as trees usually come next (though with your bare soil, putting in groundcovers such as your grass and also mulch and/or groundcovers in garden areas is wise), and then the details. So before getting into the details, think about how you will use the overall space since that will drive decisions such as path or water spigot placement: do you have kids that need a play structure or soccer field; where will you store trash; placement of patio or deck or other outdoor living areas; where will guests park and how do you want them approaching the house; is there a need for shade of the house or seating areas or animal areas; where will food crops be located; where are your outdoor water sources; do you need wind breaks or living snow fencing near the barn or house or driveway; are any future outbuildings or additions planned; etc etc. You may have thought through all these things but I don't have a feel for most of that from what you have given us. It's easier to deal with potential issues in the planning stages, though not everything in the plan needs to be actually built at once if time or funding require spreading things out over time....See Morebrodyt
6 years agobrodyt
6 years agowhitewatervol (Z 8a/7b Upstate SC)
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6 years agokrmarchese
6 years agoYardvaark
6 years agobrodyt
6 years agowhitewatervol (Z 8a/7b Upstate SC)
6 years agoKim in PL (SoCal zone 10/Sunset 24)
6 years agoYardvaark
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoemmarene9
6 years agobrodyt
6 years agobrodyt
6 years agoKim in PL (SoCal zone 10/Sunset 24)
6 years agobrodyt
6 years agoYardvaark
6 years agobrodyt
6 years agoYardvaark
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agobrodyt
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoKim in PL (SoCal zone 10/Sunset 24)
6 years agokentc
6 years agomarshaaa (5b CO, Castle Rock)
6 years ago
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marshaaa (5b CO, Castle Rock)