maryil: " I am very interested in the Miele Convection Steam Oven, and having a 30" induction cook top. I would like to have a conventional oven as well, but not really a 30", a 27" would be fine." As you have discovered, there are great differences between both the actual vertical dimensions of various cooktops and ovens and -- just as importantly -- the clearances that specific models of cooktop require below, or that certain models of oven require above, the appliance. We have had an arrangement such as the one you desire, but not with the brands that you have been looking at, for almost 15 years now. From our (possibly obsolete) experience, the LG induction cooktop is the skinniest induction cooktop that you are likely to find. It is about the thickness of an Apple MacPookPro laptop of 2008 or so vintage. Part of its secret is that the exhaust for the air that the cooling fan blows over the electronics when the cooktop is in operation is at the rear of the cooktop above the surface (in the stainless trim). The exhaust slots are very skinny: about the thickness of a U.S. nickel, but they seem adequate to the task. Because the volume of the room is for all intents and purposes infinite for the purpose of accepting the cooling airflow, considerations of saturating the exhaust area as could happen for units that exhaust into the enclosed volume beneath the cooktop are moot. Among wall ovens, we found that the Bosch convection (not steam) ovens were a few inches shorter, top-to-bottom, than the other brands that we measured or checked the specs for. That would allow you to mount a Bosch lower (farther from the underside of the cooktop), but you then would be stooping lower to lift your Thanksgiving turkey out of the oven as your guests salivate. Because we had no problem with clearance below a cooktop, we used the compactness of the Bosch wall oven to mount it high, with a shallow drawer under the oven for hard to store items like cookie sheets and pizza stones.

Good point to talk about relative values. However, it seems to me that a failed controller board or boards (apparently costing $800 and maybe $1400 to have replaced) is more akin to having a blown motor in a car, or maybe major damage from hitting a deer where your insurance company wants to total the vehicle. Those are much bigger financial hits, ones that as Lily'smom says, were you get to "the thought process when deciding to replace a car." Now if we were talking about, say, a Miele induction range priced at $7k ($7500 with the 5 year warranty), it makes arguable economic sense to go ahead with an $800 or even a $1400 repair. A six year old Miele range, with a $1500 repair, might very well be worth around $3000 to $4000. For a six year-old Elux, though, it is a good deal less clear, which is where cjzimmer seems to be asking for help. Here's my 2 cents on the questions asked. Sounds to me like the stove is the EW30IS65 slide-in model. At least, that was the only induction range that I recall Elux selling as a two-oven induction range back in 2011. (IIRC, it had the regular oven and the "baking drawer" in place of a warming drawer and that was how Elux could call it a "two oven" stove.) If memory serves, the stove was priced at around $3200 back in 2011. What's it worth now? Maybe $1600? Maybe a lot less. Seems to me that we had a posting here a couple of years ago from somebody who picked up one from Craig's list for about $1000. On the other hand, if you were going to buy the current version Elux slide-in (EW30IS80), the asking price is usually $3200 but sometimes turns up on sale at around $2900. Compared to that price, an $800 or even $1400 repair looks more economically rational. Trouble is that this is the point where we run into a lot of uncertainty. As Lily'smom points out, maybe other components will start failing. Then again, maybe they will not. Conversely, do I want to spend $2900 on a new stove that also might have a major failure in another six years? Or, to borrow Kaseki's formulation -- would you be willing to pay $450 per year to lease a stove and then go lease a new one when it dies? Another alternative would be a less expensive replacement range. Two examples that come to mind are the Elux freestanding that Lily'smom is getting (also recently purchased, I believe by 3katz4me). Seems to run around $1800. That, of course, is a frestanding range and might not be to cjzimmer's liking. So, for a slide-in, there also is the Frigidaire induction slide-in range (FGIS3065). Made (afaik) in the same factory which produces the Electrolux ranges. The Frigidaire slide-in often seems to be sale priced at under $1500. Otherwise, the next least expensive slide-in induction models are the GE (PHS920) and the two Samsung slide-in induction ranges, all seemingly priced around $2200 to $2500. Will these ranges --- or the $3+k Bosch slide-in (HIIP054U, soon to be replaced by the HIIP055u), the $3k JennAir/Kittchenaid cloned slide-ins, and the new LG induction slide-in --- be more reliable, longer lived than the Elux/Frigidaire products? No way to know. We know that some of them will fail early (plenty of online complaints about that, too). But what percentages? Impossible for us to say because there is (as yet) no readily available -- available to us, that is --- long term statistical data. So, "in your shoes," my inclination would be to go with a less expensive model from a reputable retailer and read the extended warranty terms very carefully.

Wow, you've had almost exactly the experience we did with Samsung and we also switched to the same Electrolux. We had three replacement Samsungs (same model as yours) as various problems could not be either properly diagnosed or fixed over a three year period (all under warranty). The last one had the top explode and at that point we took Samsung to court. They paid and we bought the Electrolux which has been great. Only relatively minor complaints about the Electrolux which by the way has been totally reliable. I'd prefer to be able to directly choose a heat setting rather than turning on to medium and then going up or down. I love the large burner at right front but the right rear is too small to use on anything but a six inch pan when a 12" pan is on the front. Overall we are very happy with the Electrolux. We're going to replace it but only because during a kitchen remodel we opted for a 36" range and nobody makes a 36" so will move to gas. Overall though I'd give 5 stars to our Electrolux experience and about 2 stars to Samsung.

It is possible for one strong person to do a swap, but it is much easier for two. Do you have a friendly neighbor who can spend an hour helping or two short visits? Shut off power; confirm induction unit's power is off with live power sensor tool. With underneath cabinet cleared out (ahead of time), disconnect electrical line under counter in cabinet Disconnect any underneath mounted hold-down scheme One person underneath pushes up unit (bench press) while person above slides two boards under unit so unit rests on boards that are resting on countertop (have boards ready ahead of time). Board setting can be a weaker spousal task before helper arrives. Two persons outside cabinet lift up old induction unit and place somewhere (can be done by one but there is higher risk to unit and/or countertop). New unit is installed in reverse order of above steps, assuming it fits, and in conformance to its included directions. (These should be read before hand.) Proper adherence to electrical connection rules related to using connection means approved for their purpose is mandatory. Adherence to correct electrical cable conductor sizing and breaker sizing is mandatory. Electrical steps and adaptation of the existing configuration should be gone over ahead of taking up the helper's time. Installation may require two separate helper visits if the new unit's hold downs are incompatible with the old unit's and time has to be taken to bond or otherwise connect a different hold-down scheme for the new cooktop.