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Quick fire hydrangea producing no flowers after two years

5 years ago

I bought a Quick fire hydrangea online two years ago. It arrived as a tiny plant, probably about 4 inches tall. It has since grown slowly to about 18 inches tall. It has put out leaves each year, although not very many, and it has never produced even the semblance of a flower bud.

I'm wondering if this is normal. Any feedback you can give me is appreciated. I'm starting to wonder if it was even properly labeled and is the right plant.

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Comments (3)

luis_pr
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
It will produce -eventually- a flower bud(s) but closer to the summertime in the northern climates and when it gets old enough. I have had to wait several years when ordering some of these tiny plants but, they will bloom when they feel they have developed a good enough root system. Just keep giving them TLC and no pruning. Other than observing the leaves and making sure that they match the ones for QF, I am not sure what else you could do to confirm that you got a QF. I hope you get one or several blooms this year!
Lee Grayson thanked luis_pr
NHBabs z4b-5a NH
5 years ago
I would expect that under normal growing conditions that you might see flowers in year 3, but you haven't said anything about growing conditions. Where are you? Is it in sun or shade? Do you water it if conditions are droughty? Is it mulched?

4" is a really tiny plant, and it may just need to gain enough size to support flower growth.
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Thank you very much, Finegarden, for responding to my ?? - even if Vancouver, BC is a very Hydrangea-friendly place compared to ours (challenging Winters and hot & humid Summers) nevertheless, your experiences with your QF give us hope and inspiration!,<:->Hi Lilgreenfrog, although we both are in similar z# your elevation and our relatively flat midwest may make real difference as far as sun exposure is concerned, perhaps some experts will clear your ?? But one thing certain is patience and following advice from more experienced afficionados pays off. My 17y/o Nikko has rewarded me this year with many and huge blooms and to this day, I still find new buds that have just formed while the earliest clusters are now turning to her mature, sagey-green, color - thanks to Hayseedman's Overwintering thread & Maria' s (from Ottawa) flat cardboard method. Too much sun exposure is another question ... I resorted to sheltering Nikko with an arbor and a fast climbing SA clematis when she lost her source of shade. QF will not need such extensive protection thank heavens, hopefully someone will anwer your question ... I'm interested to know too. Hang in there & Good luck!
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Hi George and yellowgirl! I also agree that I need something between my property and my neighbors'. What my photo did not show you though, was how this area in question looked from the driveway. It's actually directly looking at the end of bed on the left. In fact, it is not such a wide area. This area needs something pretty and not so big. A conifer like Picea orientalis will be too tall for this area as it is too close to the house, and the base of the mature tree will be even wider than the width of the entire bed. That's why it will not work. I am choosing something like the Sugar Tyme Crabapple because it has a good size and upright habit for this area, and it's so gorgeous in spring! It is actually going to look spectacular from the driveway. Also, the persistent and very bright red fruit during winter will look absolutely stunning with the snow during winter. Another thing is, since there is no other evergreen tree in this woodland setting in my backyard, would it not look odd to have one single evergreen there in this island? In any case, you have given me a lot more to think about, which is great! Thank you. I will certainly take a look at some evergreens at the nursery this weekend before I decide on the crabapple or something else. BTW, I have a Prairifire Crabapple in my front yard, so having this white flower crabapple in this backyard area visible from the front is going to look very nice.
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Little Bas (only one s) if you want to look for it - I got mine from Brushwood nursery, mail order. I think for me there have been a few keys for success: - size the shrub and the clematis well - a large vigorous clematis will smother a shrub that isn't a really vigorous grower with a head start, while shorter clematis, or ones with longer internodes will be easier on the shrubs. - stiff branches are important on the shrub, so that the clematis doesn't pull the shrub out of shape. I may have taken a few more photos this year. I'll look, but it may be a few days since my home internet is down.
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They tend to shed some bottom foliage in the hot summer months, especially if bought now and planted in the hot summer months. Their root system is not that big so, monitor the soil by inserting a finger into the soil and watering -the soil, never the leaves so they do not get leaf spots- if the soil feels dry or almost dry. When watering, use enough water to get the soil moist at a depth of 8". It is quite rare for it to have small blooms as it normally blooms very early in the summer months so enjoy those few blooms. If they dry out and turn brown then so be it. Do not panic and let it simply use the nutrients to develop a larger root system instead. Make sure that the plant has 2-4" of organic mulch at all times, which will conserve soil moisture and provide future nutrients as the mulch decomposes. I would not fertilize it anymore and instead, wait until after all danger of late frosts has passed in spring 2022 to feed it again. All paniculatas are deciduous so it will eventually lose foliage in the fall 2021 but it will leaf out back in the spring 2022. Since the plant is not yet accustomed to getting this much direct hot sunlight (it was probably in part shade the plant nursery), consider providing some temporary shade in the afternoon and-or evening.
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October_Gardens
5 years ago
Sounds like it should've grown larger by now. Consider your soil conditions and any need to change them (richness, nutrients, mulch, etc). Otherwise it might need more time.

Also, I've mentioned this many times on the forum specifically regarding QF: If you prune in August or any time after, you risk preventing next year's bloom depending on where you cut, so either prune immediately after the blooms turn dark pink - or - let it go all winter and cut off the spent blooms only (no other stems or nodes) AFTER new growth has begun.

I think I pruned mine last july and it's completely loaded with buds right now.

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