Hey, I'm in Cedar Rapids too! I would suggest direct sowing your squash, zucchini, and cucumbers. I transplanted some last year that I started and really, the direct sowed ones caught up with the transplants in no time - not worth the trouble of starting them indoors. I've no experience with melons so I can't help you there. Tomatos - I'd say mid-late March and you'll be okay - lanky plants really don't do that well. Broccoli can go out a bit earlier, I believe, so you could probably start that right now but I'm no expert as I've never grown it from seed. When in doubt, follow the directions on the seed packet! This my second year gardening here in IA and I can't wait! Good thing I'm having my third baby late-March/early April - gives me time to get into a routine before the gardening season really is in earnest!

Well, I am quite thrilled to read these great responses! I live in Zone 7, but our Winter is still long. The zones just refer to the extremes in temperature, not how long it lasts. I have noticed volunteer tomatoes come out earlier than I would choose to plant out. So, I can watch for that as a sign. I do not have any trouble with legginess of my tomato seedlings. I have a picture window that faces full-South, and shelves there (for seedling starting in Winter) outfitted with shop-lights. I read somewhere that it is important to use fresh bulbs (fluorescent tubes) as the light diminishes over time. I do not get new ones every year, but if one seems to put out less (judging by the plants), I use that on my alpine strawberry seedlings or something else that doesn't mind. I want to start even earlier because I'd like to keep tomato strains true when I grow them out. I plan to grow out severl this year, and if one flowers first for a week, then they are in the clear, and I can mark those fruits, and then not really worry about the rest. I guess what I mean is that an early & staggered start will allow me to focus on each plant as it comes into bloom, selecting from that, and moving on to the next one. I do have some limitations (medically), so it would be easier to focus on them staggered rather then so many at one time. It may not work out the way I hope, but I figure it is a good experiment for this year. By choosing good varieties for this (my un-familiarity with varieties hurts my experiment here) I can better insure success. The funny thing is that I don't really eat tomatoes--except in spaghetti sauce. BUT, everyone else loves them, and I find there is a group involved with tomatoes that have a zeal for the plant like no other vegetable/fruit. A great deal of home-breeding is going on, and I find it the most fascinating thing. Tomatoes provide a great opportunity to study genetics at home, and to look very intensely at varietal development in plants. I guess I am hooked for a reason not common to most, but I am hooked. So, I will try my experiment this year, and see how it works for me. I am thankful at the varieties/categories I see mentioned. When mentioning "use determinate or dwarf" plants, how can I find out which is which? I have consulted some websites, but is there a thorough tomato base out there? Keep the posts coming! Happy Holidays, Robin

If the grasses are hardy for your zone, it makes no difference to cut them while the soil is frozen or to wait until it thaws. It is the activity of the grass and when it starts to grow that will determine the timing. And cutting back or not cutting back has no impact on whether the grass will increase in size (spread). Grasses growing wild have no one to cut them back and they will develop properly. Cutting back just improves the appearance in the garden and reduces self seeding on those so inclined. The Calamagrostis (Karl Foerster, Avalanche) are cool season grasses and will start growing soon so cutting back now before they are in active growth is advised. The flame grass is a warm season grass and won't start growing until temperatures warm up in mid to late spring so you can wait longer for those if you like.

I agree with Linda on the management program ^^^ And do the cuttings right away of course to be ready. Usually indoor plants don't get good light when they get too big and they still need to be hardened off since the protection behind glass or walls with lights does not season them properly. Because of that reason alone I would start over and harden off over the last week with the new clone. You certainly can guillotine the main stem and train the suckers. If I recall this topping method was the main method used in France well over 100 years ago, before determinates were introduced to Tomatolandia from Florida. Good luck! PC