Oooh, that's a great Aeonium. Many people, including me, would kill for such a nice, large specimen as that! And it does not look too poorly from here, with the exception of a couple things. Summertime is the time Aeoniums go dormant and most of the time want a major cutback on water, or to go basically dry with just a sip of water periodically. Summer is also when the rosettes ball up like yours are, which could be perceived as them sort of shriveling up. That is completely normal for this time of year. Full sun could be fine. I happen to do only part-sun with mine over the summer, to try to encourage them to wake up faster when fall comes and temperatures start dropping a bit. My conditions aren't ideal, so my plants are potted and I move them around in an attempt to please them at various times of the year. What isn't normal are the few branches that have flopped over. Where the branches have flopped, are they kind of mushy? If so, they're rotting, and you should remove them/perhaps cut them back to the main stem, to where the tissue is green and healthy inside. Also feel around the base of the stem for any mushy, rotting areas, and I would pray the root system is healthy and there isn't any rot going on below the soil line. My Aeoniums generally start waking up in the fall, and they do most of their growing through the winter and spring, until hot weather hits. Aeoniums are characterized as winter growers, which just means they don't like the heat much. If your summer doesn't get very hot, they can decide to not completely ball up and go entirely dormant, but instead only partially ball up and keep slowly growing through the season -- most of my Aeoniums went completely dormant this summer, but in the exact same conditions a couple of them didn't, and that's just a fluke. Aside from the few problem stems you have going there, I would hope it's one healthy plant. Just make sure you remove what has rotted so that the rot cannot spread. Don't let the balled-up look of the rosettes scare you. The leaves will open up and really start growing soon. Out of curiosity, I'd like to see a closer view of the plant. It has a look to it a bit like Aeonium balsamiferum, which I quite like. This post was edited by teatree on Sun, Aug 4, 13 at 19:55

The fungus spends the winter in infected plant debris in or on the soil where it can survive at least one and perhaps several years. It can also be seed borne. New spores are produced the following season. The spores are transported by water, wind, insects, other animals including man, and machinery. Once the initial infections have occurred, they become the most important source of new spore production and are responsible for rapid disease spread. A thick mulch indeed does help against splashback and also serves to keep moisture in. A good organic mulch will also decompose and compost in place. Compost makes for healthier plants which are better at fighting off diseases. In fall I clean-up as best I can by removing all plant material. I use a straw mulch and remove that as well and place into the compost pile. I then lasagna compost with a mix of grass clippings, shredded leaves and new compost on top. I plant right through that in spring and then straw mulch again.

It looks like it might just be sunburn or nitrogen burn to me. I'm assuming you've not shown the undersides of the leaves because they look normal? Are you wetting the leaves when you water/fertilise? To be honest, I don't have much experience with diseases on basil, but I used to wet the leaves when I first started gardening and they quickly burned. It looks similar to what I can see in the photo.

Kendra Not the soil to add, but perlite. That is the white granules, few are visible in your soil (but it is better to add more). You can buy a bag of it, screen it and rinse it. I would add some and gently poke the soil closer to the rim with a chopstick (so I won't disturb the roots much), to mix it in - not leaving it on top. Or if the soil in the pot is loose enough, you could shake some out holding the plant. Mix this with perlite and put back in the pot. Perlite is very light and easily floats to the top. This would be temporary help, and if you don't feel confident about doing it - don't. I am only suggesting it for a time until you decide if you want to make 'proper' mix. You would need to make it yourself - they don't sell it in stores. There is just couple of places you could order similar by mail, but I am not willing to pay the $ they ask + shipping so I don't buy it and can't advice you about them. robinswfl gave you good advice, re-read her 2 posts again. Using well draining soil is much better for the plants, and makes it easier for the grower because it decreases chance of overwatering. Sure, even gritty mix could be overwatered, but it would take lots of water to do that+leaving pots sitting in saucer full of water. Keeping plants outdoors is also much better for the plants, and with that kind of soil one doesn't have to worry much about the rain...again, just my opinion.