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Newel Post attachment to top of cap?

6 years ago

I've embarked on a project to bring my stair railing up to code and add some decorative trim. I've gotten myself a bit stuck though, so I'm hoping for some help.

This is a photo of the stair railing in the "before" condition.

And here is where I am now:

I'm trying to figure out how to securely attach my new newel post. Do I need to remove the cap to attach to the wall framing? The previous newel post was attached above the cap had a vertical screw in the center and a finish nail on each face holding it up. I was able to remove it pretty easily. Something like that doesn't seem solid enough. Would a long lag screw installed roughly perpendicular to the cap be enough? If so, is there a recommended screw size spec? I haven't been able to find many examples of newel posts installed on top of an angled cap like this.

Comments (5)

User
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
The IRC requires a guardrail to withstand a 200 lb concentrated load and a 50 PSF load applied to the entire guard railing. I don't see how that would be possible without inserting the post 6 or more inches into the structure below.
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
6 years ago
^ Yep.
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Erin
Original Author
6 years ago
You don't think it would be possible to meet the design loads even with a half lap and lagging parallel to the floor into the existing knee wall? That seems to be the typical detail. I would prefer to avoid penetrating the structure of the knee wall if possible.

When you say structure below, do you mean the floor joists (there's a basement below), or the knee wall?
PRO
Mint tile Minneapolis
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I use"Key locks" usually I route out into the floor/structure sometimes this requires Installing blocking from below and in between joists, sometimes in a tile floor scenario like yours Ill beef up and route into the Return face of the knee wall. This all gets done and planned for in advance .....I fear youll need to back up :):)

I would remove and route out the face for the keylock and re-secure face with 2.5" deck screws, shims , glue that you will later hide behind the footprint of the newel....of course you need a very stout and secure wall/plates first.... you can also beef things up by resecuring the runner by shimming glueing and screwing that into plate and then utilizing a fillet system to attach balusters (also hiding the deck screws)..... Ive attached an example, unfortunately those prefab skinny newels dont allow a lot of wiggle room....you can simply wrap the foot of the newel too...Staircase work is a bit tricky and has a lot of parameters..eh'...- best

Fillet examples..
Erin thanked Mint tile Minneapolis
Chad Wooley
4 years ago
For did you secured the newel post to the knew wall?

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