It is possible. I've only done it once, but this is what worked for me when a Temptation bulb started to rot while blooming without roots. 1. Cut out all of the rot and apply cinnamon to the wound. 2. Make sure to let the wound dry all the way. It may take a few days. 3. Apply rooting hormone to the basal plate. I used KLN. 4. Pot the bulb back up in hydroton and place the pot over a seedling heat mat. I normally use taller pots, but with this particular bulb I made sure the basal plate was within 5 or 6 inches from the bottom of the pot to make sure it had good contact with the heat mat. 5. You may want to secure the bulb in some way. You don't want the bulbs shifting around in their pots because that can break off new roots. I found the rot on that bulb while it was blooming with two scapes so the bulb was already using up lots of stored energy. I don't have measurements but by the time the bulb started sending up healthy leaves it shrunk from about 32 cm to about 21 cm. After the bloom stalks shrank away, the bulb tried to send up leaves but the first 4 or so faded away. When starting any forced amaryllis in S/H I would stake the bulbs, and keep the bulbs on heat mats until they can secure themselves in the Hydroton. It would be easier to put in the stakes while potting up the bulbs instead of trying to force the stakes through the hydroton once the scapes start coming up.

First thing I would do is fire your house sitter. It should survive if you can cut it back to white wood and the roots didnt turn into dust. I agree you should make sure its established before winter sets in if time permits in your growing season. I'm not familiar with Zone 7a but that would seem to be equivilent to NC, TN, AR, OK, etc. You may need to wish for an Indian Summer. In my climate I would give it a drink, perhaps some superthrive and then keep it in partial sunlight for a week then full sun until weather forces it inside. Good luck.

Some folks do that and there are several threads in the backposts where it's discussed, if you want to do a search at the bottom of the page: I'm too lazy this AM to do it. LOL But take more that one cutting and be sure they've taken before discarding the plant it came from. And yes, it will take successive cuttings to get the timing right so that you have a seedling at the right age to plant outside. Most folks I know don't clone plants b/c they usually want to plant different ones each year. And yes, under grow lights the plants will survive over the winter. But don't expect fruits if you let them get to that stage. Take cuttings earlier than that. Whether it's cost effective for you to do so depends on how much importance you place on having the same variety, meaning, is it a rare one, or a common one that you could raise from seed at the same time you raise all your other seed grown ones. Ray has some that he really wants to clone b'c he started out with a hybrid, I think it was Purple Haze. Carolyn

I would leave it one more year. It may sucker and die on the top, but the new shoots will prosper. If these shoots come from above the graft they will be true to variety. If they come from below the graft they will be rootstock. Save one of them and graft whatever variety you may like. You could save more than one shoots and add a second variety if you chose. I have a couple of these. Multifruit trees. If your space is that limited it may not be worth fooling with, but I enjoy challenges like that. I'm young and have space. Maybe it will recover completely