Moved a large climbing rose but
bella rosa
5 years ago
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5 years agoRelated Discussions
Moving a climbing rose in February, help!
Comments (6)SAFTY FIRST That ground is hard enough to break a pick axe and your back all in one swing. I don't think anyone wants to hear how you had to go to a phone to dail 9 1 1 end up delaying your move over a few pulled muscles or perhaps a few stiches. pfzimmerman has a good idea or two it could work on the water concerns for thawing a frozen ground like yours is always up to you. On cuttings from some this might be worth a shot however I highly doubt that it would work at this time of the year I give three thumbs up on the Burling suggestion Another idea and perhaps a long shot There is a group (in my area) called friends of roses concider giving a rose growing group in your area a call(if you can phone call them) and explain your situation to them I am almot certian they will work with you or future owners for a win win result. Aside from your sentimental values a 100+ yr old rose is worth this effort as well....See MoreLarge (climbing) rich apricot rose for 'shade'
Comments (3)Thank you very much mighaelg, I appreciate the information, and it sounds like you really know roses! I know I have to be careful with my choice, and I'll probably decide to go with the Westerland just to be safe. It's not that I feel like Westerland is a compromise, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't some other obvious choice I was overlooking. I'm not keen to "invite" challenges like blackspot or winter die back, especially since I won't be providing the optimum sun exposure. I really appreciate your input - thank you!...See MoreClimbing roses in large containers
Comments (5)Moe, wooden barrels are fine for temporary plantings. The wood rots out after a few seasons, leaving you with a real witch of a repotting chore. What kinds of trees are you talking about and how far away from where your first choice for the roses are they? How close to the house will you have to plant the roses if you choose ground option 2? It's possible the roots may not be an issue. It's also possible the sun along the house may be quite sufficient. That spot I would want to determine three things about...how intense would the reflected/radiated heat from the house walls or any paving be? How decent would the drainage be? Depending upon where you are, the age of the construction and local building codes, it might be you have engineered soil which is compacted to remove all air space, eliminating drainage, but making it more secure footing. And, how extreme would alkalinity leaching from the house foundation be for the planting holes? If you're going to pot the roses, you will need tall trellises upon which to grow them and those become sails with any wind. Plan on picking them up regularly if it's windy where you are. Large, more permanent pots, such as concrete, would last worlds longer and be heavier making them more stable in the wind, but you would still have the issue of the drainage water leaking out on the paving upon which the pots will rest. If you go that route, put smaller, bush type roses in them so they can't as easily blow over and once the pots fail, you won't have a horribly prickly, Jack and the Beanstalk plant to repot. That job CAN be done, but it's often worth paying someone else to accomplish. It ain't NO danged fun! Been there. (I was the one paid to accomplish it and I looked as if I'd been making love to a bale of barbed wire!) If the tree root issue is potentially too extreme for your comfort, do some more exploration concerning planting them by the house. I think that may be your safest, easiest choice. Kim...See Moremoving an older climbing rose
Comments (1)Pretty much as you've described. Ideally, you want as much of a root ball as possible, but that's not always possible. You'd also benefit from balancing the top growth and root ball as closely as possible. It's also possible to literally bare root the plant, if that is doable where you are at this time of the year. You'd want all the foliage taken off to reduce the water transpiration and keep the plant from drying out. Right now, creating food isn't as important as keeping the plant properly hydrated. You may cover the top growth with a mound of loose soil/mulch which will prevent it from being dried out by wind or direct sun. You may cover it with sheeting or old tee shirts which you keep wet with the hose or any other method of keeping it shaded from any hot sun and kept moist against any drying winds. If it's raining fairly regularly where you are, the rain will do much of that for you. I'd get the new planting hole prepared as much as possible so you can lift the plant from where it is and get it under soil ASAP. Treat it as you would a newly planted bare root and you should succeed easily. Good luck! Kim...See MoreRebecca (zone 4)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agobella rosa
5 years agoaltorama Ray
5 years agoRebecca (zone 4)
5 years agoaltorama Ray
5 years agobella rosa
5 years agoUser
5 years agoSeeingreen
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agobella rosa
5 years agoaltorama Ray
5 years agoRebecca (zone 4)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agobella rosa
5 years agototoro z7b Md
5 years agomcnastarana
5 years agoRebecca (zone 4)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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