HELP! How long before smell from final coat of oil-based poly leaves?
sreimer
6 years ago
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_sophiewheeler
6 years agohandymac
6 years agoRelated Discussions
why is everyone pushing water based poly?
Comments (123)Angela Noble, Applying 3 coats is meaningless if, the contractor does not prep or apply the proper coverage. All of Pallman's water borne finishes require a final cut at 100 or 120 grit and 450-500 coverage per gallon. The sealer will seal 80% of the pores with proper coverage of 450 sq. ft. per gallon. Allowing 20% of wood for the first coat of polyurethane to grab onto. With an additional 2 coats of water borne polyurethane at the proper coverage of 450-500 per gallon. Your floors should be more than sealed. If, the products was diluted or applied improperly. Your floors will not have the proper coverage and will not be properly sealed. Leaving it vulnerable to premature wear and failure. How was the product applied: T-bar, rolled, brush? Are there gaps in the floor? Was there any thinning of the product?...See MoreAnyone try the Vermont Natural Coatings PolyWhey yet?
Comments (26)I have a rental on a low budget to turn, but I have taste. 70’s dark brown muck cabinets...budget said we had to salvage them. They had NC tags on them, thought ‘they’ll sand ‘nice’. They did but the bases were not oak and the faces are oak. I opt’d to do the vinegar and steel wool stain and go for the drift wood effect. I did a water poly test and what a nightmare! my beautiful gray weathered cabinets went right back to dark brown (on nice mission furniture nice. On these cabinets NOT) Read blogs and got to the wipe on heirloom satin coating by Vermont. SO AMAZING! So happy with the outcome! I have the driftwood look, clear I didn’t add gray stain and it brought out the different grains of the mosh of woods that ended up being these cabinets. Not the original end we envisioned, but the best because Vermont Coatings allowed an amazing finish. They look custom! I’ll post pictures when done. Anyone wanting to preserve that driftwood finish...this is it....See MoreStained cabinets - how shiny? & water or oil top coat
Comments (10)With a stain that dark, ambering is not going to be an issue for you but I would not use an oil based product regardless. Brain cells are too important! My personal preference is minimal sheen so I use matte finish top coat or low luster. As mentioned, the names and sheen will vary among manufacturers. With any of them there are certain things to remember - never shake the can, do not stir vigorously so as to create bubbles but DO continually stir gently as you are working. the solids settle out very quickly with low luster products especially and what you are left with on top is going to dry improperly and give you inconsistent sheen levels. This is a big project and needs to be approached with the long term goal in mind regardless of the time it takes which will be longer than you think - it always is. When you get tired of it and try to rush it, you'll see the result of that in the finished product. This is hard for me because if you were a friend of mine here in flesh and blood I'd do anything to talk you out of it. Of course it can be done and many people show their beautiful results but for every one of those there's probably 2 people who got part way into it and wondered why in the heck they ever started. But I'm going to be a cheerleader and say go Shee go! - you can do this, take your time and don't ever work on it when you're tired....See MoreLow VOC water-based poly: Vermont Natural Coatings? Vermeister?
Comments (23)Polyurethane is not water proof. It is water resistant but not water proof. It will slow down the transition of water from the surface into the wood but it won't stop it completely. My guess is the edges that allowed a snick more water to reach the wood have had a snick more finish taken off. That's about as exciting as it gets. The drop in the gloss level is not something I would worry about. You sanded a finished surface. In other words you scuffed it up so much that you reduced the gloss level. Have you removed all the finish? No. Have you reduced the gloss level? Yes of course you did. That's what sanding does. Again, the issue with adhesion is going to be an on-going situation. Regardless of gloss loss or not. You can test treat a plank or two and leave them alone for 2 weeks (allow full cure) and then try the scratch test. I would leave them alone. Install the floor and use it until it becomes so bad that a full sand/refinish is needed. The only way to ensure good adhesion is to do a full sand/refinish. Until you get to that point, you could be setting yourself up for failure....See Morejfcwood
6 years agoCancork Floor Inc.
6 years agosreimer
6 years agolazy_gardens
6 years agosreimer
6 years agosreimer
6 years agojfcwood
6 years agosreimer
6 years agoCancork Floor Inc.
6 years agoveggiegardnr
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agosreimer
6 years agoglennsfc
6 years agojfcwood
6 years agosreimer
6 years agoCancork Floor Inc.
6 years agosreimer
6 years agojfcwood
6 years agosreimer
6 years agosreimer
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoWendy Hillman
6 months ago
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