Were I a countertop fabricator, I may give a customer a choice as to where to have seams or not, depending on layout, yield, and budget.

I was shown where and how the seam would appear on my mock up.

Kitchen · More Info

Close up and then back, so you can see where it was actually placed.

Kitchen · More Info

The first fabricator told me he'd put it about a foot to the right of the sink.

I wasn't keen on that.

My corner is empty. There is no cab under it. Only 2 2x4's on the wall.

Mine were all straight runs. The small seam is at the sink.

Although the seams at the sink (front and back) would have been shorter in length than anywhere else in the counter run, I didn't want to deal with crud in the crevices. Options 2a and 2b: just to the right or left of the sink. Since our main prep area is to the right of the sink (which is in front of a large, counter-height window), I also didn't want to either deal with crud there nor stare at a seam all day long. We opted for a seam ~ 18" to the left of our sink.

@Terri, why is the seam curved by the edge, is there a reason for it?

It's called a "French miter". It's mitered in the inside corner of the countertop where you need it, but it's shorter and therefore less conspicuous than a true mitered corner. It improves slab yield too, which saves everyone money.

Joe I know see a heck of a lot of counter tops in your biz and would appreciate your thoughts on where it would be best in my kitchwn layout. i honestly never thought about it til now.

My kitchen guy was here adding up all the sq footage needed so I could have a reference point when looking at slabs, but without question he said, "we will put a small seam here at the sink". At the time "small seam" sounded great to me but later that night I started thinking that it seems a lot of people have uninterrupted sink perimeters without seams???

terri that looks really good. I couldn't see it til I zoomed in. I would be happy with that, but then again I would be happy with that counter top! Geez! Drooling over here! Real marble correct? I would not have wanted a foot to the right of sink either. Did you have a small seam option at sink?

Raven mine are straight runs too maybe that why at the sink? That looks like a nice tight seam I'd be happy with that.

javiwa thanks for feedback that makes sense too.

thanks for pics. I never really thought about this small detail. Last counter I had was Uba tuba done small seam at sink and was very happy with it but then again it was dark and the seam was tight so not noticeable. Now going a light color makes me a little leery that it may be more noticeable? Hmmm?

Behind our stove, two cuts. But, I have a small kitchen.

Because of my cabinet layout, there was no reason for a seam at the sink.

Yes it's the real deal and I LOVE LOVE LOVE IT!

They did really good on fabrication and install.

Thanks Joe for explaining the why. I just knew what it was called.

Again the first fabricator wanted to do a straight seam AWAY from the corner.

I'm so glad I went with who I did, and got what I got. :)

MaWizz;

Drawings with dimensions, please.

Thanks in advance Joe!

115" is getting near the limit for slab size. How big are your slabs? How many did you buy? Does the stone have directional movement? How obsessive are you about matching flow? Would you be willing to purchase additional stone for the best possible seam match? What is that next to the fridge, and is there a panel and filler next to the fridge to support the counter properly? Because there doesn't appear to be proper support in that area to have a built in under counter appliance there. (Nor does your pantry have a filler against the wall, which will mean the doors wont open properly, if at all. And the whole run may not fit at all if a wall is out of plumb or square, which is all walls. And are you OK with your sink not being centered? And do you realize how small of an opening a 33" corner lazy Susan has? And that this kitchen would be better with a peninsula than a barrier island? And did you know that you are going to have a weird crown molding return on the window wall cabinet on the end because there isn't enough room for the crown projection factored into the design?)

There are no simple answers. A lot more info is needed.

MaWizz:

If you stick with that basic drawing and choose engineered stone which comes in 120" lengths, you'll have a French miter at each corner and no seams at your sink.

Sophie thanks for looking at everything! Wow I guess I need you here to help me :D Hopefully I can answer all your questions!

115" is getting near the limit for slab size. How big are your slabs?

120"x63" most likely with what I'm looking at

How many did you buy?

None yet. Currently slab shopping :) KD saying I need 2

Does the stone have directional movement?

No

How obsessive are you about matching flow?

Non issue based on what I'm looking at as most are consistently random if that makes sense.

Would you be willing to purchase additional stone for the best possible seam match?

Maybe yes

What is that next to the fridge, and is there a panel and filler next to the fridge to support the counter properly?

Note: That drawing is almost identical to same footprint and cabinets we have now just mainly a cosmetic update.

So yes panel on side of fridge and tall pantry on other side.

Because there doesn't appear to be proper support in that area to have a built in under counter appliance there.

We were planning a wine/beverage cooler in that place now...I would think they know to have that since they work on million dollar homes everyday but I will ask to be sure!

(Nor does your pantry have a filler against the wall, which will mean the doors wont open properly, if at all.

??? Not sure what you mean we have it that way now and open the pantry all day long

And the whole run may not fit at all if a wall is out of plumb or square, which is all walls.

I'm sure the walls aren't plumb or square who's are? lol this isn't the first house I've owned but then again the first house we bought was a builders house who lived there 1 year before us and it was darn near perfect! I'm assuming the installers make all those adjustments.

And are you OK with your sink not being centered?

No that has already been addressed the cabinet to the left of the sink is too wide and will need to be customized to fit.

And do you realize how small of an opening a 33" corner lazy Susan has?

Yes, I don't use those corners much at all. I currently have 36"'s but making an adjustment because I want bigger drawers which I use all the time. As for the corner base cabs one side has a tall blender, a slower cooker and a few other gadgets and the other is just some canned goods we save for hurricane season. We eat pretty clean so most of the food we buy is fresh Whole Foods not canned or boxed. Also, we have a tall pantry and a double door pantry which is super handy for large items, bulk stuff, and best no bending or squatting! I'll save that for the gym ;) we honestly have an over abundance of storage. All my top shelves in uppers are empty!

And that this kitchen would be better with a peninsula than a barrier island?

oooo I disagree with you here this is way better than a peninsula in this layout. A peninsula would be too close to the kitchen table and we would have to walk around it every time from table to sink with dishes. Also, my prep area would not be central to working or landing spot in the kitchen. I did have a peninsula in my first house this is way better! DH and I may take out the fridge wall down the road and make a longer island parallel to the range but for now we feel this is best for function. Not sure why you refer to it as a barrier island ? It's not blocking anything? It allows for 2 way traffic instead of 1.

And did you know that you are going to have a weird crown molding return on the window wall cabinet on the end because there isn't enough room for the crown projection factored into the design?)

nothing is weirder than the granny crown I have now lol. i'm not sure exactly what your talking about here tho? assuming my KD has it under control ? Yikes! If it means anything I currently have at least 3" crown now and going to a low profile box crown not sure why there would be an issue if going less? Also, I have an 18' vaulted ceiling if that matters? No crown touches the ceiling

There are no simple answers. A lot more info is needed.

appreciate your feedback! I'm sure I have overlooked some things and will take all the help and advice I can get :) Hope those answers help!

Thanks Joe ...interesting that your opinion is different than my kitchen guy. I honestly don't know.

Thanks featherbee I didn't question either because I know they do this all the time. I just can't recall a lot of pic of seams at sink like he is suggesting. But small is appealing!

MaWizz, as I said I had one fabricator/installer say he'd give me a straight seem about a foot off the sink. Yet the other templater said we do corners with french miter and showed me where and what it would look like on his ipad. I loved that option and it looks way better than a straight seam. :)

Thanks Terri I'll talk to him next week and see what the options are. Another thing I'm interested in is that I like that thick counter look. Just not sure if it can be done with Quartz? Or if it's even a good idea?

I think my counter top is 3cm. Eased edge. I just measured it and it's measuring at almost 1 1/4". Centimeters mean nothing to me. :) I sew and bake in the US. I'm not real comfortable with the metric system. :)

Lol ...Terri I hear you on the metrics I was asked if I wanted 2 cm or 3 cm and I was like what?! I was kinda thinking 2" hee hee ...kidding of course, but I do like that thick look and I believe mitering is a way to achieve that but I'll need to ask my fabricator if it can be done with Quartz, if it's a good idea, and cost? I too like the eased edge.

The mitered seam didn't cost any more, it's just how this company does it. I'd think it could be done with quartz too. The eased edge is just "clean". Fancy edges never appealed to me.

The rounded edge on the inside of my sink and the two outside side edges cost a total of $150 more. The sink cut out was $200 or $250.

"The rounded edge on the inside of my sink and the two outside side edges cost a total of $150 more."

This is why I keep preaching that fabricators should sell this option instead of that gawdawful ugly cheap "pencil" edge at sinks.

One chip, and that's "when", not "if", and you've paid me nearly $300.00 to fix it on site. Pulling the faucet and sink, profiling and polishing a proper round over, and reinstalling the sink and faucet to reduce the risk of future chips could be $500.00 or more.

Joe, I wouldn't have known a thing if it wasn't for hanging out here for over 3 years.

I'd have gone with whatever the "pro" told me. It's nice to get pro's that are truly knowledgeable. I didn't have to ask him about the rounded edge he suggested it right away, after showing the template layout mock up before I approved it.

I'm going with an eased edge on my counters. So I should request the fabricator to have rounded edges on the inside of the sink cutout?

Dream:

Unless you want to pay the above rates, yes. Of all the places in a kitchen that need a rounded edge, sinks are priority number one. Is your designer or fabricator paying me? I didn't think so.

Dream, on an undermount absolutely.

I went one step further and had the two outside edges/sides of my counter top run done as well. They left the eased edge on my stove sides (inside run edges).

The sink thing I knew from here. The templating guy suggested the outside edges.