My first thought was similar to T2D's and Ken's, that adding shrubs to your current bed, which is relatively narrow, won't be enough to balance the size of your lovely colonial. I think you want to broaden your approach to the issue, though this may be way more info than you want. ;>) Before planting woody plants, you will want to do a general front yard plan so that you don't later have move things (much more difficult with woody plants than perennials.) So here are some general questions to consider: - How do you (or will you) use the front yard? for example mostly to frame the house, or for touch football games or will you want a front yard seating area eventually, etc -Where do people need to be able to walk to get to the house from the street, from the driveway, does the mailman or paper delivery person cut across the lawn? - Will you want to be able to easily get around the corners of the house into the side and back yard, for access to utilities or with yard equipment? - Do you want to block any views or be sure to leave any sight lines such as to or from the deck or porch or a neighboring structure? -Do you want shade for any of your outdoor areas? -Does your dog have particular paths s/he uses where you don't want to plant? I would begin by figuring out where you want your walkways and access to be so that you can plant around their eventual location. Be sure to plan walkways wide enough for two people to walk abreast to look welcoming and access wide enough to get whatever needed through the space. You don't need to actually do any of these right now, just know where they will go. Then widen your current foundation planting. If needed it can go on both sides of the walkway across from the driveway to the door. Be sure not to plant anything so close to the house that its eventual size will interfere with maintenance of the house. For my old cape (much lower than yours) my beds tend to be 10 feet or more wide, and the shop/barn, which has a similar mass and height to your house, has beds wider than that, along with large trees to frame it. Once you have figured out some of these general questions and done some general planning, you are ready to start to answer your original question. My inclination would be to leave a large sweep of lawn between the house and the road (unlike Ken's beautiful yard, but very different house and setting.) I would probably place a large tree (sugar maple, blue spruce, etc) off the corner of the house, 30 or more feet out, depending on its eventual size - something that will have some mass to balance the house and sort of frame it. Traditional with your style of house is sugar maples out by the road, which is a look that I find appealing. Be sure that anything large that you plant is not going to interfere with overhead wires over the long term. I'd also probably place a smaller ornamental tree with nice branching structure on the opposite side of the house from the larger tree and closer to the house, though still more than half the eventually width of the tree away from wires or the house. I like T2D's suggestion of a hardier Japanese maple (Emperor I would be my choice for you,) or some other ideas include paperbark maple (Acer griseum), Stewartia, red-flowering buckeye, crabapple, a hardy clone of redbud (I have one and there are some in Plymouth at PSU) or dogwood. I have both Kousa dogwoods and pagoda dogwoods and there is a thriving red-flowered buckeye at my local school. Pagoda dogwood in spring: From garden photos 07 and in August the birds love the berries From garden photos 07 Also consider spire-shaped trees closer to the house such as a columnar gingko (but still keeping in mind the eventual width.) These will help ground the house without blocking the nice architecture. Think about adding a large bed with small trees, shrubs, and perennials close to the road (but far enough back that the plows wouldn't interfere with it.) From the road, these plants will look relatively larger and will help ground the house. In the bed near the house, one way to add height would include clematis (particularly C. Stolwijk Gold which has blue flowers in spring and gold foliage - can get from http://hummingbirdfarm.net/clematis.htm when they open their online ordering later on) or other vines like native honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) on a trellis or obelisk or on a wire framework up your porch pillars, or even growing into a large shrub. Large spring-blooming shrubs might include traditional lilacs (grow slowly, so get larger ones if you can afford them,) some of the larger hardy rhododendrons such as Roseum Elegans or PJM (red foliage tints and medium leaf size), some of the native viburnums, hardy magnolias, Amalanchiers (shadblow is one of the common names), chokeberry (Aronia), high bush blueberries or a variagated leaf red-twigged dogwood which will have multiseason interest unlike the regular green leaved ones which are really only nice in winter. There is a lime-foliaged Philadelphus (mock orange) and a variety of dark and variagated foliaged weigela. Golden/charteuse elderberry (Sambucus Southerland Gold) has multiseason interest as do some of the dark-leaved varieties like Black Beauty or Black Lace. There are a couple of forsythia to look into with gold or variagated foliage: Fiesta, Kumson, Evergold' and 'Gold Leaf' AKAGoldleaf, though you may not get flowers except below the snow line. Look into conifers - I know there are some shrub-sized selections of blue spruce, but I have had some issues with bud worm killing back new growth. I don't have much in the way of deer issues usually since I am in a rural enough area that there is plenty else for them to eat, so you will have to talk to the neighbors and nursery folks near you about what is less likely to be eaten or plan to have deer avoidance strategies such as spraying or black bird netting over vulnerable shrubs. I can tell you that in my neighborhood both arborvitae and yew are deer candy and so you probably want to avoid them. Here is the 2012 USDA zone map. http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/ If you click on NH you will get a larger image of NH and can probably figure out if you are still in zone 4. I am north of Concord in the Merrimack Valley and am in zone 5a, but there is a lot of zone 5b north of me, so you may find that your zone designation has changed. That will help you select plants. I know you commented that you don't need winter interest due to snow depth, and I used to feel that way also. Then I though about all those months when it isn't the growing season, but there also isn't much snow as well as years like this one with little snowfall. So what most people consider winter interest I consider late fall (Nov. and Dec) as well as early spring (March or April) interest and I do plant for that. T2D's suggestion of visiting nurseries to see what is available in spring is a good one. I tend to plan for general shapes or sizes and types of plants (evergreen conifer, or rhododendron, or deciduous shrub with gold leaves) and then visit area nurseries and find what appeals to me that fits my requirements and is available. Driving around established neighborhoods both now and in the growing season is also a good strategy. Find areas with architecture similar to yours and see what appeals to you, both in plants types and placement. In gardening season if folks are out in the yard, they are often happy to tell you about what they have planted if you ask. Besides Plymouth State (one of the grounds workers used to put up a weekly what's blooming on the web and do periodic plant walks, but I don't know if he still does), Dartmouth may have an arboretum that you can visit for ideas as well if either of those are close to you. Fnally, consider asking some version of this question on the New England forum, or just go over there and browse. You will find that there are some great gardeners there with a lot of expertise. Check out some of T2D's photos of her garden in various posts.

Sue, I hate to bring this up - I always enjoy discusions about what plants to add to existing plants and I don't want to rain on your enthusiasm - but where are you planning to add these new flowers? Is there more to this bed that's empty or emptier than the bed in your picture. I ask because my Alchemillas are currently as tall as your 3 Endless Summer Hydrangeas and wider. My Endless Summers are nearly as tall as my 4 ft tall fence and 3 ft plus wide. My guess is that in 2 or 3 seasons you'll need to move things out of the current bed. From your pix I'd think that adding a few annuals here and there would add the late color that you're missing. Here's a few old views from my garden - I thought about posting them in the "What is your stupidest garden mistake" post, except I couldn't decide what area to show everyone! LOL 2003 Stone Bench bed. Same stone bench with alchemillas in bloom 2005. Can you find the bench? the mugo pines? the stone path? Alchemillas long gone from bench area. Picture is from 2007. The Lady's Mantle was moved to back side of the 3 trees in this long skinny bed. Alchemillas were replaced by Caramel Heucheras and Strutter's Ball daylily in the center section edged by the stone path. Since the above picture was taken, an alchemilla seedling has seeded itself into the second heuchera and is nearly as large as the heuchera! I haven't figured out how to separate the two - heuchera are really touchy in my garden - and I'm afraid if I pull it and tear the two roots apart (if I can tell which are which) then replant the heuchera - it will promptly die on me. :))

In a similar situation (with some parts getting a tad more sun than you and some parts a tad less) I have many daylilies, veronica, shasta daisies, asters, phlox, perennial foxgloves, helenium, geraniums, echinacea, penstemon, solidago, hellebores, coreopsis, rudbeckia triloba and (I think) Herbstonne, scabiosa, lupines, bleeding hearts, monkshood, astilbe, lilies, and liatris. I also let columbines, feverfew, campanula, and Queen Anne's Lace reseed (I know some think QAL is a weed but I love it!) All of the above do well although the helenium is new so not sure yet how that will do. I also have reseeding nigella, larkspur, and few other annuals that are left over from my market-selling days. I let these reseed and they seem to do well in the part-sun gardens. For shrubs I have weigela, flowering almond, carolina allspice, hydrangeas, deutzia, boxwood, hollies, spirea, quince, and a couple of roses that are doing okay, not necessarily thriving, but that may be due more to my neglect than their situation. I did plant a Lyda Rose in a friend's garden in similar conditions that is spectacular! And I have a Darlow's Enigma in almost full shade that is doing well. Red or yellow twig dogwoods may work too. One of my gardens used to be a shade garden till we lost a beautiful oak, and there are hostas in it. It still gets some shade, but the first two summers the hostas fried (I didn't move them because we had planned on getting a new tree but life got in the way!) This year I am determined to give them more water to help them along, and so far so good, including this last week of 85 degree weather and no rain for weeks. The hard part for hostas here, like for you, is the direct afternoon sun. If you have sections that get morning or later day sun hostas may work better there. If you go with astilbes they may need supplemental water as well. I also have put in dahlias last year and this year. I did the flowers for my daughter's wedding and planted almost 100 tubers last year, and even with leaving some in the ground to die and losing some over the winter in storage, I still had about 85 tubers this spring. I don't have any "full sun" conditions at all, and in a weary attempt to get all those tubers planted this spring I had to put some in somewhat shady conditions so I'll see how they do. The ones last year in part sun did quite well (I converted my vegetable garden, the sunniest spot, for the dahlias last year. This year it's back to veggies so dahlias are roughing it lol) But many are in the same part-sun conditions as last year and they did quite well. Depending on moisture levels in you garden, itea, clethra, cephalanthus, salix, and viburnum may do well. I take care of a friend's garden with similar sun conditions but it's practically a swamp, and these thrive there but I think they need the high water levels. She also has ligularia in here, another moisture lover. Surprisingly, peonies and hydrangeas do well, and I would think this soil waaayyy too heavy and wet, so maybe the peonies would work for you too. She has another plant here that I can't think of. I want to say sambucus but I'm not quite sure, and so not quite sure if this one needs lots of water as well. I also like to supplement some bare spots with annuals. I never did many annuals till I started selling at market and now I love so many of them. I always have zinnias, and annual rudbeckias, and I also like cosmos and cleome. Sorry, didn't expect this post to be so long but kept thinking of more stuff! Hope this helps! :) Dee

No "great" updates, honestly. I did trim it down a lot earlier this year, and it definitely looks better for it! Now that I know it's OK with it, I'll do a better job of trimming this winter. Since posting this, my mom passed, my dad got COVID which led to end stage pulmonary fibrosis, and one of my dogs passed... so it's been a rough year :-( Obviously I haven't had the time, energy, or money to focus on the gardens like I wanted. I have 2 sunshine ligustrum in another section of the landscape, though, and I'm kinda thinking about pruning them and then planting the cuttings all around the front of the butterfly bush (leaving the back open so that I can get in and prune the butterfly bush easily). That wouldn't cost anything, they're drought-tolerant so I wouldn't have to worry about watering them after the first year, and the evergreen yellow would offset the purple colors well. I had to Google the vitex... wow, that's going to be gorgeous! I'm going to have to look in to that, I'd never heard of it :-O