New house - extreme air suction in HVAC Closet
karyn
7 years ago
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karyn
7 years agoRelated Discussions
older house, new hvac diy help!!!
Comments (18)Yes, the mastic stuff is the bomb! I had used it on a chlorine leak scrubber system some years ago. The trick is to buy or mix to just the right consistency and then you are basically painting a plastic seal or your chosen thickness. I too think the aluminum duct tap is expensive, but it is approved, gives a good smooth interior, and when used over the mastic I will bet it stays in place giving the best of both. We used IR to check our electrical connections in the plant. 480 volts at 100 amps generates measurable heat when the connecting screws are loose and that uses power. So, though I have not had the energy audit I have purchased an IR gun (got it cheap!) and am finding lots of unexpected holes. I was also surprised to find the walls did not show the heat level I expected. It turns out that the previous owner did some exterior wall insulation. A 1950's house here in California had next to none. This means that my AC unit is oversized, not having that loss to compensate for. It will still work out. I will have to fine tune for efficiency now, but if I ever build the extra conditioned floor and attic space it will be about right. The furnace is still oversized, but that is why I went for the two stage. It just hit me that what most of you guys are talking hard duct as it is normal. That stuff is better done by a professional unless you have all the equipment and can afford to practice (waste cost). But then you would, if you did your research, nearly a professional. I am doing Flexible ducting now because it's easy and my final configuration will not be fixed. My attic space and roof may be changing in the future if I can find the money. At that time I will be doing hard duct, wall stacks, and the like. That is major and will probably be contracted. Right now I want to spend as little as possible to get my system working. I have a wall heater and window air, so the efficiency increase could be as large as 50%. Just replacing my water heater with a tank-less last December gave me about a 15% reduction in gas usage and I think we are using more because it doesn't run out in the shower anymore. If the HVAC works as well I may save over $100 per month this summer on AC and an unknown amount next winter on heat. Hey, I just looked back at this and my other posts and realized that they are WAY long. I apologize. I am more used to writing memos, letters, and manuals. Give me time. I will get used to shorter posts....See MoreBuilding new home - HVAC options
Comments (18)spray foam in rafters for an unvented attic..it is an option. it allows the hvac contractor to do a regular install instead of configuration of fur downs/trey ceilings etc. but...unvented foam sealed attics are Semi-conditioned, not conditioned. the ambient temp & temp inside of the foam sealed attic are usually within 10 degrees of each other. and, the tradeoff for spending 3x the cost for foam is smaller tonnage hvac system. so hvac co needs to be on board. using foam covers a multitude of building problems..oversized holes for plumbing & electric. IC instead of ICAT recessed lights, oversized cuts at bath fans, stove vents, fireplaces not sealed off in attic and thermal bypasses all become non-issues when the air & thermal barrier is moved from attic floor to roofline. as we put more efficient hvac equipment into attics, we have to be careful. these units produce colder air (our issue in summer) and plenums condnesate in an vented attic. this is one of the reasons that foam has become such a strong product, because now the attic isn't as hot, and colder air in the plenum doesn't cause as much condensation in foam sealed unvented attics. I'm trying to get my page online for videos up and running. I just uploaded video of an open cell foam install. the videos show how to seal the roof to attic floor (soffit/eaves) connection properly, how to seal at passive turbines on roof (for existing homes) and the last is after rafter bay has been foamed, how to come back & fill in voids & low spots. later this week I hope to have time to get it up and ready for viewing. drop me an email & I'll share the link. I'm getting pros & cons as to making it open to public...which I'm inclined to do...but have gotten feedback against it...so for now..you'll need a password. as a homeowner you have to be very selective in chosing a foam company. it isn't the owner/salesman that makes a good install, but the person doing the install. if they rush...they miss areas, if they move too slow the job takes longer. temps of mix,combo of chemicals, roof temp & moisture content all have to be consitered. I'd expect to see pictures of previous installs, be allowed to go on a job to see the process & to be able to call previous homeowners to see if they achieved savings & comfort after the install. ..yeah...I'm picky! but I've seen some really bad installs over the years. finding a good company, with an experienced installer...takes time. as I test the air tightness & measure the depth of the install, companies locally know that they have to meet my standards. here in La., we use open cell foam...what is the type for your area...open or closed? if you go this route...interview companies. make sure you know going into it that you still have to meet the code requirements for R-values. with closed cell at R-6-7 per inch & open cell at R-4 per inch..the right amount of inches have to be installed. the whole 2-3" 'performs as' is hogwash. 'average' fills are hogwash. you want an install with no dips (low spots), no voids or gaps & a good seal at the attic floor/rafter area so that no hot humid air enters at soffit area of the house. I'm attaching a picture of a good install of open cell. note that the rafters are 2x6 and are well filled between rafters , faces of 2x's are covered. the bid was for 7", but at lowest point the foam is 7" thickest point closer to 8". note the soffit (roof to attic floor) also. this is what is necessary for air seal of attic. fwiw..the company that did this install, the owner is the installer. in my part of La., these seem to be the people you get the best install from. not so much with salesman selling job & installer doing the job. best of luck....See MoreHVAC: House Design - HVAC input please
Comments (6)I suggest separate systems for the first and second floor. That is the best way to have even temperatures on each floor. It costs more up front, but you potentially have lower operating costs. You could zone the loft off the second floor system. However if you are going to be working 10 hours days with multiple pieces of equipment generating heat then spend the money on a mini split....See MoreSingle HVAC zoned or two HVACs without zoned system
Comments (27)The biggest problem with HVAC zone systems is knowing when to choose it as a solution and when not to. Some HVAC companies it's about "sell, sell, sell" whether or not it works... there's more money in "sell, sell, sell" --- when it's only about money? So does the comment above mean I do it for free? No. If you think that you are reading things that aren't there. New construction? best to choose separate systems 9 times out of 10. In order for a zone system to work, you have to know what you are doing. Most HVAC companies staff (the techs they send you) are 20-30 year olds. How much practical experience could they possible have? It's best for HVAC zone systems to be an elegant solution. A HVAC zone system is a tool in the tool bag. Not all homes are suitable for zone systems. Some homes there is no other way, and in some cases complications to those problems will make an HVAC zone system design possibly more prone to problems. You have a problem now, do you want more problems. These decisions among others are decided "in person" --- so considering that becareful what information you decide upon from the internet. Just because it's here doesn't necessarily mean it's true. That said: Depending on equipment level chosen, how many different floors you have in your structure, how much room you have available... will all be factors that make you decide one way or another. From there it's in your best interest to pick a contractor that is skilled: especially when it comes to HVAC zone systems. (there's a lot of garbage out there.) (click to enlarge if necessary) I service the Katy, Texas area....See MoreAustin Air Companie
7 years agoBruce in Northern Virginia
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