I have found caudata is easy to roo,t so your chances are good.I would put it in what ever medium you use and in close it in some thing and give warmth and light and it should root fine.I have on small cutting in a clear cooking jar with the lid closed so lots of humidity and its starting to grow.

aleready have and their not the nicest pic for references of either hostas thats why i am asking here .....the hosta library doesnt have all the nicest pic of all the hostas in their and they dont all come with with a good description either.

patusho25, All three of the Phenakospermum guyannense I got from Tropilab in Suriname are doing well. I've only had this latest group for about 6 months. I finally got them to send me some with roots and leaves attached. They have been outside under shade cloth ever since I got them, but they'll go inside the greenhouse some time in November when the nights start to fall into the low 50's. Here's a letter I got from a strelitzia "expert" in South Africa concerning the various kinds. Dear Gary Strelitzia alba: Stems unbranched, up to 10 m tall, with tuft of leaves at the apex, producing young growth from the base. The leaves are distichous, petiolate with an oblong blade. The sepals are white, and abaxial. The two lower petals of S.alba have small rounded auricles. Strelitzia nicolai : Stems in clumps, unbranched above, up to about 10 m tall. Leaves are petiolate. The colour of the petals of Strelitzia alba is white, while those of Strelitzia nicolai is blue and rarely white. The two lower petals of S.nicolai togetrher form a sagittate blade. The inflorescence is compound. Strelitzia caudata: Differs from S.nicolai in florescence, in the shape of the base of the petals and in the tailed lower sepal. Differs from S.alba in the more pronounced lobes of the lower (adaxial) petals. Differs from both in the more divergent sepals and petals. The slender tail like projection form the middle of the keel of the lowest petal is the reason for the specific name of S. caudata. Stems unbranched, generally up to 2 m tall or more. Leaves petiolate. Sepals white and petals light mauve throughout or only towards the base. S. kewensis (cross between S. reginae and S. augusta) although S.augusta is a illegitimate name and therefor a synonym of S.alba (1970. Moore & Hyypio. Baileya 17.) I'm not sure if it is still being grown in South Africa. Sources: http://www.encyclopedia-online.info/Strelitzia Dyer. 1945 Flowering plant of Africa Volume 25 Plates 995-997 Yours sincerely Mrs.Snyman PRECIS Information Officer Hannelie Snyman PRECIS Information Officer South African National Biodiversity Institute Phone: +27 12 843 5000 Fax: +27 12 804 3211 E-mail: SnymanE@sanbi.org URL: www.sanbi.org (I just wish they would have sent some photos!)

Caudata, like phuwuaensis (formerly sp. Phu Wua), flagellata, khaosoidaoensis, and family, prefers high humidity, and does best grown semi-hydro. I only water when the reservoir is completely empty. The leaves should be stiff, and they feel kind of cardboard-like. New leaves, until mature, will be thin and shinier. The plants can be slow to grow, and quite slow to root. The one plant that almost didn't survive my AHHoya order was flagellata yellow. This was from one of my October orders. I took cuttings, and they JUST started rooting: Bottom heat is a MUST for rooting, if conditions are cold/cool. As far as growing, here are some pics of how I grow mine: Here is a pic of a cutting I took of caudata gold to sell over the summer: The crusty stuff on the "pot" is from a fertilizer flush/ProTeKt (which can leave a crusty residue when it dries on non-organic surfaces), and is of no consequence. New growth beginning (around a month after taking the cutting): Rooted phuwuanensis cuttings (for inventory, cuttings made early December): Nice, new growth forming on the cuttings: Healthy, stiff, leaves: Mother phuwuanensis plant (no clue why the peduncle is pointed up like that, lol!): New growth on mother plant: