Looks like maybe greasy spot; it is caused by a fungus that usually originates in dead leaves on the soil under the tree, hence orchard sanitation is very important. Greasy spot, like most fungal infections requires high humidity conditions. You can google citrus greasy spot and find lots of ways to treat it. I prefer to prevent it; and for that I use a systemic fungicide; and only stronger measures when there is a significant outbreak that has not been controlled by the systemic. I am a big fan of Bayer Silvacur; but there are other good products. Ask your local nurseryman.

First of all, yellowing and brown spots on the leaves of tomato plants can be a sign of different types of diseases, such as early blight, late blight, or septoria leaf spot. These diseases are usually caused by fungi that thrive in warm, humid environments and can spread rapidly in crowded, humid conditions. Based on your description, your tomato plants may be experiencing some type of fungal disease. Brown spots on the leaves, along with the white residue you mentioned, are common signs of fungal infection. Additionally, the presence of fruit flies on plants could also indicate fungal growth, as fruit flies are attracted to the sweet odor produced by fungi. To address the problem, it is important to take some steps to prevent further spread of the disease. First, you should remove all infected leaves and dispose of them in the trash, rather than composting them. This will prevent the spores from spreading to other plants. You may also consider applying a fungicide spray to the remaining leaves, especially if you see new spots appearing. As for leaf yellowing, this could be due to a variety of factors, including nutrient deficiencies, overwatering, or pests. You mentioned that your soil was low in nitrogen and phosphate, so applying organic fertilizer was a good next step. However, it can take a while for the plants to recover, as the yellowing can be the result of previous stressors. As for fruit flies, you may want to try some natural remedies, such as using sticky traps or applying a dish soap and water solution to the floor. These methods can help reduce the number of flies without the use of harmful chemicals. Finally, since you mentioned that you are a novice tomato gardener, it's always a good idea to do some research and educate yourself on common problems tomato plants can face. I would recommend visiting a website like https://thegardenplants.com/pests-diseases/leaf-problems/, which from what I've seen has quite a bit of information on leaf problems on various types of plants, although I don't think there is an article on tomatoes many of the solutions for these problems are useful regardless of the plant in question. I hope this information is useful to you and good luck with your tomato plants!

Hi Mr caledon Looks like a generally healthy plant that is starting its fruiting phase and coping with a combination of issues: Dry/soaked uneven watering, nutrient transport to developing tomatoes and perhaps not hardened as well as you could have. But nothing we haven't all seen and in my case quite often. If you have iron and epsom salt hit it lightly with them, if not, increase the fertilization around 20% if you are controlling that and be sure to water more evenly from now on ... and as usual, not to over-water. my 2c PC

The fairly regularly spaced brown dots near the leaf margins are occurring in extremely large cells called lithocysts, or sometimes 'rock cells'. They're sometimes referred to as 'rock cells' because they contain a concretion ('rock') of calcium carbonate in each cell. Because these cells differ in structure from surrounding cells, it shouldn't be surprising that they are more or less affected than surrounding cells by unfavorable cultural conditions, so their claim to fame in this case is, "You saw it here first". If your plant is seemingly back on track and has a lot of foliage, you can cut through the stems of spoiled leaves, leaving the stub of the petiole attached to the branch. It will fall off in a week or so. Wait though, to see that the foliage loss is stabilized and growth has resumed before you start pruning leaves. Ficus b doesn't appreciate being over-watered. It causes a drought response and shedding of foliage, along with other issues like slow growth, impaired root function, Ca deficiencies, ..... Ideally, the plant would be in a soil that allows you to water to beyond saturation whenever you water, w/o having to worry about root health/function. If you can't water correctly, you'll be in constant battle with your plant's soil for control of the plant's vitality. The following links should be helpful: About Ficus b Help with excess water retention. Al