Do my walls need to be plastered?
Debbie T
7 years ago
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Debbie T
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Thought I knew my walls: plaster walls after removing paper
Comments (7)The wallpaper also often leaves stains on the wall even after it is removed. Use Easysand or Durabond to repair the damaged finish coat unless you have a source of lime putty. Durabond is so hard it is very difficult to sand. Easysand is just that, easier to sand. Both are setting type joint compounds. You should use a bonding agent on the areas needing repair. It prevents the old plaster from absorbing water the new material needs to cure correctly. EUCO WELD is a good brand. If you cannot find plaster bonding agent use Elmer's white glue cut 50% with water. In either case, paint the agent on and wait for it to get tacky before putting the patch on top....See MoreWhat would you do? Plastic tile on old plaster walls
Comments (18)I had the same plastic tile in a rental! After I took it off, it took about a gallon of joint compound to level the walls, and even then...those were my newbie days. So dumb I used ready patch instead of mixing up some good stuff that I could breathe while using. The house had been moved three blocks in the 50's and the walls were really off, above and beyond anything my simple patching could do, so I added textured wallpaper in a nod to the lincrusta/analgypta style (except it was the 12.50/roll stuff from HD because my landlord was thrifty-minded): Wish I had a picture without the sagging oak leaves and with the chair rail we eventually added. We enjoyed that bathroom for a good three years until we finally bought our own fixer. And I was glad for the practice on that place; gad what a newbie I was (and I'll be saying the same thing of myself now in 5 years). but at least thanks to casey, worthy, brickeyee, and macv, I use the right stuff on plaster now (bonding agent, durabond, and sometimes easysand, depending on the situation). Anyway the lincrusta look worked very well for us. We painted it with BM blue lapis, then bought the bottom of the color strip (darkest, I think it was simply called Navy or Blue), mixed 50/50 with glaze, and rolled on, then wiped off with paper towels until we had the tone-on tone look we were going for. Man I loved those walls, and got lots of compliments. They were inspired by the bar in the the British show As Time Goes By, if you ever saw that one. Except those were a brownish red instead of blue....See Moreapproach to working on my plaster walls
Comments (36)Still busy with the remodeling so I didn't get a chance to upload pictures last weekend. Maybe next? Anyway, finding someone to do the plaster was tough. There aren't many in my area (SF bay area) though more than in other areas: SF has a lot of existing plaster and though people are mostly replacing it, there's enough work to keep folks busy. I don't actually remember where I found someone to do the work. Some mix of Yelp, Nextdoor, Angie's List, and general web searches. I found several people that will do minor repairs but mostly do stucco, no interior. I only found two that actually do interior and one never got back to me. The guy I found is old school: Irish accent and all. He started in London and did a bunch of work in NY before moving to the bay area. He runs a single crew of 3-5 guys and does a lot of the work himself....See Morehow do I remove a plaster wall to half?
Comments (9)I agree that a diamond saw (or any decent fine-toothed blade) will cut the plaster without any problem. However, I've been very cautious with cutting plaster so that I don't end up with a lot of patching afterwards. I've had very good luck with a Dremel multi-tool (the one with the end cutting blades) to cut out areas for receptacles, but that may be too tedious for an entire wall. Plaster is quite hard to penetrate, and you will get unpredictable fracturing around the cut line. I would use wood, a long straight edge, or at least a double layer of painters tape to stabilize the surface, and then cut through the plaster with gradually deeper cuts. The first cut would score and penetrate the hard skim coat. Subsequent passes would gradually cut the rest of the layers of plaster. Is there wood lathe behind the plaster, or is it rock lathe (which looks like sheetrock)? If it has wood lathe I might consider first cutting the wall about 6-8" above the final cut line, and then using deep clamps to hold boards on both sides to stabilize the wood lathe as its being cut. Vibration breaks the plaster because it is so inflexible, and you want to keep the wood from moving as you cut. Bruce...See Morevoila
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