Would something like this work?: http://www.homedepot.com/buy/broan-elite-external-900-cfm-blower-for-broan-nutone-range-hoods-332h.html Probably will work (I haven't any idea about the motor interface, or the duct size interface) but the actual flow rate may be a tad low for such a large hood and stove. You probably get what you pay for in these cases. It is always possible to buy and install it, and then at some later date if it proves too wimpy for your cooking style change it. My guess is that it might be too wimpy for anyone who actually intends to make full use of a 48-inch Bluestar. kas

Thanks for the reply Kas. Fortunately my sense of aesthetics trends towards the severely utilitarian, which mostly (but *not* always) keeps costs lower. I hear you on realities of demolition. We have a c. 1875 farmhouse which at this point has only its siding, trim/casings, windows, foundation, chimney and rough framing left as original. All of which have needed repair. The change orders have all been more along the lines of "Look how you can see the roof rafters caving in now that the ceiling is ripped out; let's hurry and sister those up before the new roof collapses." At any rate I purchased a Proline hood (minus blower, of course). I saw the poor reviews of this company here, but I'm hoping since it is in stock and doesn't have much in it to go wrong I'll be OK. And I can always refuse the charge if it doesn't show up. Now I need to figure out my ducting route. These old houses don't have tons of extra room for ducts. This forum has really great advice on how to competently install ductwork for remote blowers too. Can't say enough good things about Garden Web!

3ilovepie, you said your dinning and kitchen are in the same room. What does it mean? Do you refer to literally both in a room or just open concept? I had my VAH at full 900 CFM this evening, pan frying fish sounds louder than the hood. Have you actually listened to VAH's sound? In case of not, you can go to Caplan's to try it. They should have a live 2-blower model at the time I bought mine. 3-blower one sounds same or even slightly quieter than the 2-blower. IMO, cleaning is not really an issue. I don't even need a dishwasher to clean the dripping trays once a while.

The Wolf 1500 nominal CFM blower that I have is sourced from Broan as Joe noted above. As I recall, being an induction motor, it requires two-conductor-plus-ground cable, probably with AWG 14 conductors. (If you are desperate to know this, I can get into my attic to look.) Romex (NM) cable should do unless your municipality has some peculiar requirement otherwise. Even an amateur electrician should have the needed cable on hand. My Wolf hood (made by Independent in those days) uses a rheostat-controlled diac/triac circuit for motor control. (This is probably described somewhere on Wikipedia, as well as in various 1970-ish transistor circuit guides, such as the one by GE.) More sophisticated integrated circuit motor controls exist if one wants to initiate a research hobby to look them up. Note: Semiconductor motor controls operate in a reverse direction from lighting controls. Upon turn-on, the motor is given full power to start up, and then further clockwise rotation of the control reduces motor power. (In the diac/triac circuit, the reduction in power is due to increasing amounts of the electrical cycle being removed from the motor power waveform.) The Wolf blower housing has its own damper that opens when the motor starts. I believe it to be forced open by the air pressure. The hood damper is still useful as one wants to keep wind impinging on the system from leaking into the house, and warm household air from leaking past the hood into attic spaces. If your hood doesn't have a damper, order one from Fantech for your size ducting, along with a couple of duct clamps. I'm not sure that locality of repair is really an important factor in a roof-mounted blower. You or your designated victim will have to get up there and remove parts to get the motor out, and then replace it. If a meteor hits the blower, just plan on replacing the entire assembly. While my unit generally keeps the roof below it clear of snow, or at least self clears the snow, in very cold weather with a humidified house damper freezing is possible. If you have very deep snow, a more commercial style up-blast blower assembly on a suitable pedestal may be a better choice. kas