Next summer, just be sure to grow them in a shady spot. Hoyas seem to do very well in shade, and there's way less risk of sunburn. I had a few out this summer on a shady shelf that got just a bit of afternoon sun, dappled through other plants, and they exploded with growth! If you just cut off that growth, it will spring forth with new! Denise in Omaha

In the heat of the summer, some yellowing due to all forms of heat stress is expected. Down here for example, we are still in summer mode; we just hit 95 degrees yesterday. Buuuuuuuuuut in northern IL at this time of the year, I expect hydrangeas to be in shut down mode. Yours are obviously ahead of the neighbor's hydrangeas but not a big deal. The green leaves will then turn yellow, brown out and fall down. Or if a dip below freezing happens, some green leaves will actually look dark green ugly and then turn brown. You can let the brown leaves drop down on their own if you have no fungal issues. If you do have fungal issues, you can throw them into the trash instead. You can leave the spent blooms for Halloween/winter interest or deadhead them whenever you want. As usual, maintain 3-4" of mulch in preparation for winter and -still- keep the soil as evenly moist as you can for now. Once the plant goes dormant, you can reduce waterings down to once a week or once every two weeks but stop waterings when the soil freezes. This year is expected to be warmer than normal due to El Nin~o on the northernmost states. They say it will be the strongest one in 50 years so maybe try to read up on what to expect weather-wise in IL. Wild temp changes may "awaken" some dormant plants and this would especially negatively affect any mopheads, oakleaf and lacecap hydrangeas. Their stems and invisible flower buds may get zapped if not winter protected. So if you have any of those, consider using winter protection. VS, being a paniculata, will not need winter protection as panics care usually hardy to Zone 3 and develop invisible flower buds in late Spring or early Summer... but I mention it just in case you also have some of the other hydrangeas.

If plant gets lanky, it s best to behead it. My chroma grew one of the long stem too, and I have to do it yet - maybe I'll wait until Spring. I probably will cut it where the black line is since there is an offset growing lower on the stem: You can also see one dry leaf - that is normal ageing and will soon fall off (or I'll pick it off). As plant ages, and receives enough light, stems should become harder and corkier too. How much sunlight are yours receiving? To make sure it doesn't happen again (stem rotting), perhaps increase drainage. Your mix looks like it has quite a bit of perlite or pumice, but iI am looking only at the photo. If your mix contains lots of peat, there is a chance it may create problem: if kept dry, peat becomes hydrophobic. Another possibility is to use topdressing of gravel - it keeps stems and/or lowest leaves away from moisture. Some ppl do not like topdressing, but I use it on almost all my plants (all succulents, and most non-succulents too). ETA: gravel topdressing helps to keep stems upright too. Your plant is mostly green and that suggests to me that it was kept in relatively low light. Low light is also cause of week stems. Another is that rosette is not as compact. Here is the same rosette showing how much compact it is. Leaves are also darker in color:

"Can I confirm with you to make sure I understand what you said on previous comment. did you mean I should add MORE peat in the soil mix, so it can retain more water and fertilizer in the soil?" No. The peat and sand nullified the most important benefits offered by Seramis, good drainage and aeration. It would be bast if you could eliminate the sand and peat entirely and mix the Seramis into 2 parts of pine or spruce bark which has been screened to remove the fine particles. Ideal bark size range is 3-7 or 8mm. This preserves the large spaces between soil particles that promote aeration/drainage where peat/sand fills those spaces and ensures too much water and too little air in the medium. I'll leave something I wrote about how to eliminate excess water from the medium, but it only works when the pot is small and manageable. ('See Newton's First Law' below) If your champaca is not stable in the pot, you might not be able to use the trick below as you don't want to uproot the plant unintentionally. "I think you said the problem of my plant is cause from not enough water and fertilizer - am I right?" No, I said the opposite about water (your soil holds much too much water) and didn't make any judgment about fertilizer because I didn't have enough information. From your most recent post, it doesn't sound like you're under-fertilizing. If anything, my guess would be you might be over-fertilizing. "About adding Epsom salts. How much should I use, how often should I use, on my 15cm pot? should I dissolve them in water first?" Many of the questions you're asking have already been asking, which makes me wonder if there's a language barrier here? There is absolutely no sarcasm or intent to diminish you in that question. Epsom salts should always be dissolved in water when applying it to containerized plants. If your fertilizer does not contain Mg, use at the rate of 1/4 tsp/ 4L of water. "I add caso4 and mgso4 on soil at the same time. Will that be ok?" It's ok to use gypsum as a Ca source in situations where using lime would create soil pH issues. Gypsum (CaSO4) will not change pH appreciably. Gypsum, however, is much less soluble than Epsom salts (MgSO4). You'll likely only need to apply the gypsum once per year and maybe not even the second year. The Epsom salts should be added to your fertilizer solution at the dose I suggested whenever you fertilize, but only if your fertilizer lacks Mg. IF you're flushing the grow medium when you water (the proper way to water) you should fertilize at somewhere near 3ml of fertilizer + the Epsom salts/4L water. Newton's First Law For conventional container culture, it's a given that saturated/partially saturated media rob roots of the oxygen they need to function normally and efficiently. At best, soil saturation robs your plants of immense measure of potential in areas like growth, appearance, yields, ….. At worst, plants unable to cope with the strain of drought stress caused by saturated media will succumb to it. This isn't a 'scare tactic, it's a very simple and straightforward observation that will be difficult to disagree with a straight face. Newton's First Law of Motion states that an object will remain either at rest, or in motion at a uniform rate and in a straight line unless acted upon by an external offsetting force. In this case, we will designate the 'object' as excess water in your potting medium. At risk of my being redundant, the 'law' can be seen as a simple statement about inertia, that objects will remain in motion and in a straight line unless a force acts to change the motion. To put the law to work for you/your plantings, you should water to beyond the point of total soil saturation - so the medium has been completely saturated and at least 15-20% of the water you have applied has exited the pot. Unless your soil is purposefully constructed to eliminate all/nearly all excess water, it's extremely probable, when the pot has stopped draining, there will be too much water in the potting medium for the plants' liking. To eliminate this excess water: immediately after a thorough watering, hold the pot in one hand over the sink, lawn, or over-sleeping significant other and move it downward, then sharply reverse the direction to upward. You'll immediately note that a good measure of 'excess' water will “continue downward in a straight line” and exit the drain hole. The sharper the reversal of direction, the more water exits the drain hole. When you have repeated the exercise until water no longer exits the drain hole on the reversal of direction, you will have eliminated all excess water and your plants will regard you with a newfound sense of awe.