Is This Really True About Oil Finishes???
kpyeatt
7 years ago
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kpyeatt
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Is this really true about hardwood flooring? Sheen or no sheen?
Comments (11)... The most practical floor in the terms of needing less maintenance is a medium toned floor with a significant grain pattern in a satin or matte finish--thus the popularity of oak flooring. .... I'm the one in a panic over which finish for my hardwoods (a thread from yesterday). Then I read the above in this thread and feel a little better. It's discussions like this that made me not want a glossy finish to start with, but then I talked with my builder's wife who said that they prefer to use semi-gloss for its durability. Anyway, 2 coats of satin are already done (on white oak). Final coat will come after painters finish up in the house. Not having ANY experience at all with hardwoods, I just don't know what to expect. Will I be happy with the way satin holds up (we're not too hard on floors--no kids but will have 2 cats)? Should I switch to semi-gloss for last coat (and/or ask for an extra). Aaaarrrgh. Just this one last agony, and we'll be about ready to move in. Thanks!...See MoreOil finished wood flooring w/ kids & pets: a mistake?
Comments (9)We recently just finished installing and finishing utility grade mixed solid hardwood oak floors from LL (.99/sqft) all DIY. It was our first time installing any type of hardwood flooring DIY. Looking at the Elastilon product, I wouldn't suggest using the very rustic utility grade flooring unless you plan on nailing it down due to the extra fitting/fussing it can take to install it. Also I would be concerned about possible movement with the heavy sanding machines/buffing during the finishing process. I would think an engineered or prefinished hardwood flooring would be better to use with the Elastilon. Laminate (depending on quality) may hold up better with kids and pets as far as scratches. Prefinished hardwood may have a stronger finish (factory) than site finished too. However solid hardwood can be refinished, it may hold up to liquid issues a little better than laminate, have more value, and if you get a rustic character grade flooring the imperfections will blend in. Even with my dogs nails clipped on the site finished solid hardwood, I can still hear the click of their nails, however it's not as loud as it is on laminate floors. If you really want to do site finished utility grade rustic solid hardwood floors, it might be possible to build a proper subfloor accounting for the moisture, on top of the concrete slab. Someone on the Hardwood flooring talk forum may be able to offer some more information on this, I have no idea how easy it is or how well it would hold up. http://hardwoodflooringtalk.com/forum/ Hickory is harder than white oak, so it will probably be more durable, but the lower grades of hickory can have more pattern to them and I don't think hickory takes stain as easily as oak. With a good professional grade finish, I think an oak floor would be fine. With natural oil finishes (100% tung oil, linseed oil, etc.) I think it depends on the finish, after considering it for our floors and researching it, I decided against it. Natural oil finishes can smell and the odor can linger for a while, they may take a long time to dry/cure, and are not as durable as the water based poly finishes. However the natural oil finishes are repairable, which is nice. I've read that in high traffic areas the finish can wear faster requiring recoating once a year or every couple years though. I know my mom has spot repaired old wood floors with poly, but it's probably not as easy as using a natural oil finish because you have to sand. We went with the professional grade floor finishing products (Bona) and decided to use a water based poly (Bona traffic HD in extreme matte) so far with two dogs and two visiting dogs racing and sliding on the floor, it's been wearing like iron. The extreme matte finish gives it a very natural wood look (not really plastic) and is extremely durable, the matte finish also hides more imperfections. The rustic floors also being custom stained with different light/medium brown shades (Bona drifast stains) really helps hide tons of dirt and dog hair. Our floors...See Moreremoving tung oil finish?
Comments (1)Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a thinned (wiping) varnish. No tung oil. You can use a "stripper" to get it off. Sanding is not a good strategy -- it is terribly inefficient and will remove the finish unevenly, causing innumerable problems trying to get new color and finish on it. Pick out a good methylene chloride stripper (the heaviest can will have the highest percentage of MC). Use plenty of ventilation, keep things warm, and let the stripper have time to do its job....See Moretung oil 'finish' may not have tung oil
Comments (9)I was actually reading an article the other day saying that no wood finish has actually been officially FDA approved as food safe. However they're all generally considered safe lacking evidence to the contrary. Anyway, here's what Flexner says about the food-safety of driers (and presumably this applies to mineral spirits as well). "Salad-bowl finish is simply a wiping varnish. The implication in the name is that it is safe for contact with food and for small children who might chew on the finished wood. It is safe of course, once it has cured, but so are all the other available varnishes and wiping varnishes. The safety concern is the metallic driers used to speed the drying of the finish. Lead was once used and it isnÂt safe. But lead isnÂt used anymore. It takes several driers to replace the lead, and there are only a few driers available. So all varnishes use essentially the same driers. There is no difference in the safety factor of any of these driers. All are safe. ItÂs amazing to me how the food-safe myth continues to be repeated in woodworking circles. (And more amazing still that salad-bowl finish is considered safe while the other wiping varnishes arenÂt!) Food safety is a non-issue. All finishes currently available to woodworkers are safe to eat off of or chew on once the finish has fully cured. Curing occurs faster the thinner the film and the warmer the surrounding air. Press your nose up against the hardened finish and take a whiff. If you can smell anything, the finish isnÂt cured. Give it some more time." Here is a link that might be useful: Flexner article on varnishes...See Morekpyeatt
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