Anyone...

Don't leave them sitting up with the top of the root mass left to dry out - the optimum accommodation of all concerns mentioned would be to plant with the top showing a little and then immediately cover it with mulch. And to refill the planting hole with loosened soil, that is not compacted more than is needed to eliminate overly large air pockets. Roots grow in the air between soil particles rather than in the soil particles themselves, and except when plants are wetland adapted or otherwise more tolerant soft, well aerated soil is needed for best growth. However where plants are expected to grow larger and last longer than summer annuals or vegetables the existing soil that fills the entire bed or site should be brought right up to the edges of the root masses of the newly planted specimens, without any textural modification or replacement of planting hole backfill. In the case of your clay soil you should only be using loosening of it to encourage new root growth at planting time, even though it is not inherently well aerated the rest of the time.

Thank you! So you think I should cover the top of the exposed root ball with some mulch? I just thought they didn't like having mulch so close to the base of the trunk

Anyone have comments on covering the top of the exposed root ball? I keep reading not to cover with anything

Bring the mulch to the top edge of the rootball, so that any roots that may be exposed on the sides (from the slightly above grade planting - always a good practice) are properly covered. It certainly won't hurt to have some of the mulch over the top - you don't need to be that precise. You just don't want to bury it in several inches of mulch.

Thanks so much gardengal that helps!

Oh man, leave the roots exposed? So they can die from drying right away? Such a bizarre idea.

Yes, in heavy clay soil plant just a bit above your grade and mulch with bark or leaves. Do not leave it exposed. Keep mulch away from trunk by an inch or two so it doesn't encourage fungal diseases. And the best way to avoid air pockets is to water the plant half way through filling up the hole and than again when filled all the way. This method of planting Camellias has worked for me for years.

Thanks Enith I will do that. Just a light amount of mulch over the top? Some root ball will still be exposed by the trunk is that ok

I mulch with 2-3 inches of course bark and do not leave any roots exposed. Mulch a bit close to the trunk just don't pile anything against it. Keep well watered the first season while it is establishing in its new location.

Thanks Enith. Upon your advice I amended my mulch much closer. I covered the top of the roots with a very light layer of mulch. Hope it works out. I was just worried with our soil conditions about root rot. I'll keep an eye on them

Like rhododendrons (to which they are distantly related), camellias have a very shallow, fibrous and oxygen-demanding root system so it is usually suggested to mulch over the rootball/root spread very lightly. This is also the reasoning behind planting high, with the top portion of the rootball above grade - clay soil or not. Bringing the mulch up to just the edge of the rootball, not necessarily over it, avoids the potential for smothering the surface roots while still adequately protecting any roots along the sides that may be exposed by the above grade planting

Thanks gardengal. That is what I did and sprinkled a little on top!