Dwarf nectarine tree planted too deep? Animals stealing fruit?
cjgw
7 years ago
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Carmine Jewel Dwarf Cherry Tree Planting
Comments (30)Hi, Don555 and all -- So to quote Hyacinth Bucket, we are unanimous that CJ and its siblings don't need much care. I, for one, will not water mine again, unless it's really obvious they need it, like if we have super dry weather and their leaves start drooping. Besides 3 CJs, 2 CPs, and 2 Bali Evans, I also bought 2 Meteors from SLN. Their advice on watering is a little different from what I read on this forum. From the SLN handbook: WATERING This is undoubtedly the most important [last three words in italics] aspect in establishing any new tree or shrub. After planting, follow-up watering is a must. We recommend 5-10 gallons of water per tree regularly (regularly might mean daily, three times a week, or a good soaking every weekend) for the entire first growing season; especially during the dry months of late July through mid-September. Rain in the forecast does not excuse you from your watering chores. And so on. Looks like the difference between what's advised here and what's in the handbook may be the needs of new transplants versus established plants. In any case, as Don555 says, these cherries were developed in a semi-arid climate. My area actually gets an average of 37.97 inches of rain per year. It looks like young sour cherries may not need any watering. In my determination to follow the directions in the handbook, I didn't look at them critically. Thanks for bringing the excess watering issue to my attention. Don555, your and everyone's comments are extremely interesting and helpful to me. Bernard...See MoreDwarf Fruit Tree -vs- Pruning Standard Fruit Tree?
Comments (18)Fruitnut, I have 2 methods and I'm sharing my trade secrets here (what the hell- I'm 6 months from 60 and hope to retire in 25 years anyway). I start some plants straight in the ground, planting them way too close in a fenced off area. Planting them close makes maintenance per plant much less expensive given that it's all done by hand (don't ask). For apples in my climate it takes about 3 years to size them up to about 1.5" diameter- at least when planted this close. I carefully dig up these BR and put them in short 20 gallon pots (wide and shallow) in a mix of 1 part peat, 1 composted wood chips or stable waste ( almost pure humus with some carbo lumps) and 1 sand, plus a little wood ash. They limp the first season but I sell them the next for around $180 per. At this point they are bearing, 12' tall and well branched and the foliage is back to mormal. Other trees I transfer to Carl Whitcomb grow bags in real soil and let them grow about another 3 years and sell them for $250 per, or less to contractors. The grow bags I use are his last edition because they allow more root out of the bag and I can grow them without any irrigation at all- even through drought. Irrigation would reduce production by about a year, I'm sure, but in my operation only my potted plants get any and they are set in the soil as well. I always take some trees in the grow bags, remove the bags and put them into 25 Gallon pots with the soil intact but surrounded by my potting mix which allows me to sell some larger trees during the growing season. Surprisingly the soil surrounded by potting mix works very well and you might want to try that method for your trees as the soil gives you much more bang per square inch and costs less. Repotting would require only replacing the artificial soil on the edge of the soil ball. It makes things real heavy though, and my soil is not too fine so I don't know how it would work with a more clay soil but I bet it would work just fine. I'm sure my prices seem outrageous by your regional standards but I'm less than an hour from NYC and here it's more than competitive- it's the best deal around- because I have scores of varieties and they're actually properly shaped for fruit production. They also plug in better than the competitions BB'd trees, especially the ones I have in pots....See MoreContainer grown fruit trees - planing for winter protection
Comments (18)I was reading about muscadines and found a reference to Jaboticaba. At first I did a double-take, because the webpage was describing what muscadines tasted like and said they tasted more like a Jaboticaba fruit than a regular grape. I looked further and realized the website was for Austrailian gardeners. Then I thought, "What is a Jaboticaba?" and searched for the word. The first thing I saw was a picture that showed the fruit stuck to the trunk of the tree rather than on the tips of the branches, which really peaked my interest. After reading about the Jaboticaba on wikipedia, I immediately went to google shopping, because I had to have one if at all possible. I found an Amazon merchant, Hirt's Gardens, that had them for $15, so I ordered it. The tree is small but darling. Since I live in Zone 7, I may never get it to bear fruit, but it will make a great looking houseplant during the winter for years to come. It can provide company for my ficus tree that I've had for 30 years. The place where I ordered it, sells them for Bonsai growers. It would make a great Bonsai because it has tiny leaves the size of my fingernail. From what I've read, they grow very slowly and make great Bonsai specimens. I'm planning to let it grow as fast as I an get it to grow by keeping it outdoors until frost and then bring it indoors for the winter. My tree from Amazon/Hirt's Gardens is a small leaf variety of Myrciaria Cauliflora. It's funny that the Latin name is "Cauliflora", because when they bear fruit, they remind me of Brussels Sprouts. The one I got is actually prettier than the picture they have online. It is about 9 inches tall and really bushy. They had it pruned to look like a little oak tree or something. How much has yours grown in the past year? I got mine about 2 weeks ago, and it has already put on a new set of leaves over most of the top. It has about 2 inches of fresh new growth this season. Here is a link that might be useful: Jaboticaba Fruit Tree Plant - Bonsai or Houseplant...See Moredwarf nectarine
Comments (4)Depending on where you live in Southern California (look up your Sunset climate zone), you may need to consider chill requirements for stone fruits. Below is a link concerning low chill fruits. As bfreeman notes, you can also plant standard varieties and keep them pruned small. Nectarines and peaches require more spraying during winter for fungal disease, especially near the coast, than most fruits (though all stone fruits should be sprayed in fungus-susceptible areas, with at least one treatment including dormant oil to kill insects. Apricots, cherries, peaches and nectarines may also require spraying if they bloom during wet weather.) Nectarines and peaches generally require summer heat for good flavor. I prefer to concentrate on plums, Pluots, apricots and peaches, since these are easier for me to grow and harder to get with decent quality commercially. But some of those nectarines and peaches with showy flowers really are attractive. Here are some descriptions of nectarine varieties. http://www.davewilson.com/br40/br40_trees/br40Nectarines.html Here is a link that might be useful: low chill fruits...See Morecjgw
7 years agocjgw
7 years agocjgw
7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX