A silly question about gritty mix?
Frank
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Frank
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Gritty Mix questions about turface, watering, and bark
Comments (5)Drew is full of it and aparently never reads any studies that get posted showing that Turface increases the available water in various container media. Turface DOES NOT hold onto water so tightly that the plants can't utilize stored water. There is a point as the mix dries where water that is held in the turface becomes unavailable, but that can be said of plain old garden soil too. Much of the water held in turface is available. That said, the moisture retention curve for axis (DE) is better at holding water that is available to plants than turface (calcined clay) You can use the sifted turface in your garden. Studies have shown it toimprove both sandy and clay soils....See MoreQuestion about screening granite for gritty mix.
Comments (2)Hi Connie , Don't ever worry about asking questions!!! Not a problem for most of us... I like to use a strainer from the kitchen dept at Walmart that has the same small holes as the insect screen. These are easy to find and very easy to use. Just put your grit in swirl it around and you should be find then add to the Turface and bark, then you can store. I also like to store this way and when I'm ready to use, I will moisten the mix before I pot up. If you would like to rinse before you use the grit that will be fine too. It will be fine. Just let it dry out before you store if .. Especially if it is covered. Just remember that the Turface need to be screened a little more because it has more fines than the grit. Hope this helps.. If you need a pic of my strainers.. Just ask!!! Good luck!! Laura This post was edited by loveplants2 on Sun, Jun 2, 13 at 12:41...See MoreQuestions about gritty mix potting.
Comments (7)"What's the best way of doing this?" I use a chopstick to get the majority of the soil loosened and removed. Then I blast the roots with a hose/sprayer to get the rest off. "Is this going to over water my plants?" Roots really aren't damaged by excess water, so much as insufficient oxygen. Overwatering only hurts roots when it displaces oxygen from a dense soil. Roots exposed to air cannot be overwatered. "Some of my plants have really small tangled roots. How do I get all of the soil off of those without damaging them?" You may lose a lot of the fine, delicate roots, and that's fine. Succulents are tough. In a good soil like the one you're using, roots will regrow quickly. And they'll be new, healthy roots that are well adapted to the new soil. I am merciless when I repot plants. I may throw away half of the old root system, and my plants always do great after repotting. "I usually don't water after repotting, does the same rule follow while in a gritty mix?" No. Water immediately after repotting. Keeping the mix dry will just further stress the remaining roots. A gritty mix remains well aerated after watering, so there is no concern. "For those who use Foliage-Pro 963 fertilizer.. there is a few different directions on the back of the bottle, which ones do I follow?" 1 tsp per gallon is considered full strength. Some people will opt for 1/4-1/2 strength when used frequently. I use around 1/2 strength at every watering during the summer, and 1/4 strength occasionally during the winter. "I did this batch with lava rocks, but I think I'm going to switch to Al's recipe. I just don't think I got the lava rock small enough, but it will have to do for this batch. :(" I've done the same thing in the past. It works, but the lava rock doesn't really add anything, and looks a bit weird when it's so much larger than the rest of the mix. "Also, for really big pots, can I put something in the bottom of the pot so I'm not using so much of the gritty mix? Like a bunch of lava rocks?" Most people would simply use a smaller pot. But if you like the look of the pot, you could put lava rock in the bottom. I would add a layer of fiberglass insect screen to prevent the mix from filling in between the lava rocks. That's what I use to cover my drainage holes as well. -Chris...See MoreGritty Mix question about bark
Comments (13)Oh, no problem... happy to help! :-) I remember when I first switched from bagged, peat based potting soil that every store sells to a more porous way of keeping the roots of my container plants healthy, and how nervous I was. I didn't know exactly what I was looking for, where to find it, how to use it... if it hadn't been for Al, Mike, Josh, Laura, plantgal, and a few others here, I might have given up. But I'm sure glad I didn't! They answered all my questions, no matter how dumb I thought I sounded, and they helped me every step of the way. I just kept reading this forum with my coffee every morning, and I kept learning. Just take your time... use winter to locate some sources, do some internet research, and some reading of back-threads here in the forum... I did a lot of Googling, using key words like Gritty Mix, bonsai culture and soils, porous mediums for plants, orchid barks, etc... and I really learned. It all fell into place. Knowledge is key, I think. When spring rolls around, you'll have your stuff ready, and you'll have a little more confidence in the concepts you're about to use. That's the important part... understanding how the concept works, and why you're using it. The science is solid, and Al explains it in his article in layman's terms, so it was easy for me to grasp. I finally understood the workings under the soil, and without healthy roots, a plant can't be happy and healthy. I must have read Al's article - the one I linked above in my previous post - over a dozen times, just to make certain I got what he meant. I copied and pasted it to a text file and left it in a folder on my desktop so I could refer to it whenever I needed. My husband built me a screening system using various sizes of hardware cloth attached to the tops of 5 gallon buckets so I could screen my ingredients to the size I needed. I also thought a lot about what I was planting, where it would be positioned for the season (indoor or out), and I kept following these guys, here... reading about what they were doing, following the questions others asked and the answers Al was giving them. Now, when I need to re-pot my bulbs... my plants of choice are Amaryllis bulbs... I already know exactly where to get what I need, or I already have a batch mixed. I just make sure the bark and other ingredients are saturated well before potting. And when I water, I know the water will run out quickly because of how porous and free-draining the mix is, and I already have them either at my kitchen sink, in my shower stall, or outside where it won't matter if water drains out. I water, wait a little bit for it to drain, then water again to ensure there's adequate moisture down at the root zone. Al can probably tell you more about feeding, but I use what I have available which is MG liquid 12-4-8. I mix a weak solution... probably somewhere around 1/4 or less of the recommended strength... and I feed every time I water to make certain my plants have a steady supply of nutrition. Every once in a while, I flush with clear water. When autumn rolls around I back off a bit to let them have their natural resting period, when growth slows naturally. I'd actually use Foliage Pro plant food if I could afford to buy it, but since I already have this plant food, I'm kinda stuck with it. :-) The beauty of using a medium that doesn't hold perched water is that it's almost impossible to over-water. And with bulbs, rot is a real problem when they're grown in containers. That, in fact, is what brought me here. I was searching for a way to keep my bulb collection from continually rotting. It was so frustrating! When you think about it, we just take for granted that the gardening industry has what we need. We don't really stop to think that like every other industry, they're in it to make profit. The more replacement plants you buy, and the more bags of soil you use, the more money they make. But we keep losing our plants to conditions under the soil surface that we never really think about. So, anyway... don't be nervous... take your time, do some reading... gather what you'll need... make sure you understand how and why the concepts work, and go for it in spring. And we'll be here to answer any questions, or help you if you run into a problem... once you adjust to the slight difference, you'll love it. You'll see the difference in how happy and healthy your plants are. Another tip... once you re-pot, keep your freshly potted plants out of direct sunlight so they can acclimate to their new situation. Gradually work them back into full sun or direct light, depending on indoor or outdoor conditions. Al also has a couple of other articles floating around the forum... one on feeding and plant nutrition, I believe... and one on growing trees in pots and root pruning. Those are worth a read, too. Happy Growing... and remember, there's always someone here to help if you need it. :-) Have a nice day!...See Morerina_Ontario,Canada 5a
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoFrank
6 years agoFrank
6 years agoFrank
6 years agoLaura F (z9FL)
6 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
6 years ago
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