Hi Nancy Thanks for the info. Had a feeling you were growing outdoors, thus the success. I read somewhere many years ago that Max Ten was a photo-sensitive orchid. Can no longer find that info. Kind of turned into theory. You will see many posts here that speak about the "non-blooming variety" of M.T., which of course does not exist. When I read your post I thought that you may be growing outdoors and that's why it may be blooming for you. Shorter light period than indoors. I used to grow in z-9 outdoors. Never had a problem with M.T. blooming but up North indoors, different story. Last year mine did not bloom under lights. This year it did when I limited the hours of light and ran it dry in winter. Going back to the OP's question. I don't think it matters as much what you are potting in as long as you understand that they come from a climate that has a distinct heavy rain season (late spring/ summer) so the medium has to be able to accommodate this cycle. They have to be kept fairly wet until new growth is mature. Then cut back on the water a bit in fall. Winter in situ you are correct they have a distinct rest. They receive substantially less rainfall nov- may; december they receive almost no water. Their temps are fairly even all year round too. ~80 day 60's night. It is a great plant to grow whether it blooms or not, but much better when it does bloom. Just not the kind of plant you can stick under lights for extended periods. I also find that to be true to some degree with Milts indoors. Thanks for your response! Clara

Hi Laura: As Jacqueline, Tessie, and JeriJen often said: "location, location ...." Tapla's recipe of 5 parts fine mulch, 1 part peat moss, 1 part perlite is best for climate like mine: low-sun, flash flood warning and fast drainage is a must. It is recommended by Douglas Green, an owner of a large Ontario nursery of many plants in pots, including roses. If I use Al's 5-1-1, there is no need to put loose gravels or bark nuggets at the bottom for fast drainage. However, I use super-slow draining MiracleGro in green bag, and medium-slow draining Organic MiracleGro. I skipped this important process of putting loose stuff at the bottom, and regret it terribly. Now I have to dump the soil out of each pot, and start all over. I realize this after a heavy-rain simulation with a hose, with the pot flooding over and loses 1" of soil - which happens every time it rains here! Sure, Field Roebuck said it's not important, just put a paper towel at the bottom of the pot, and fill up with soil. His Texas climate doesn't have the low-sun, and 6" of rain flash flood. Each region should have its own recipe of best potting soil. Now I realize that the regular MiracleGro potting soil (green bag) might have been made for indoor pots, where one puts 1 measly cup of water per week. It's not meant for several outdoor heavy thunderstorms with 4 to 6" of rain per bout like my climate.

Thank you. You all have been so helpful. I have gleaned new and useful information. I have 7 bands that are potted in the local nursery's organic potting soil with the ingredients listed above. The next 8 bands will be potted this evening in the Miracle Gro with moisture control. These bands have been received anywhere from 5 - 8 days apart. I am really curious to see what the difference will be between the bands that arrived last week to those arriving this week. The ones planted in organic planting soil will receive a very weak dose of fish emulsion every Sunday. The M.G. plants will receive water. Roseseek, thank you for the information and the images:) Again, Thank you all:) Lynn This post was edited by desertgarden561 on Fri, Jul 19, 13 at 19:26

MIracle Gro soils are pretty much junk. Most container gardeners - and it really doesn't matter much about the type of plants: houseplants, annual containers, edibles, mixed shrubs and perennials and certainly any cacti and succulents - will avoid it like the plague. It is too heavily peat based, too water retentive and too prone to collapse and compaction due to overly fine particle size. Plant failures and rots are rampant with any MG soil! The best homemade houseplant soil is the 5-1-1 mix discussed extensively on the Container Gardening forum. It consists of 5 parts bark fines, 1 part peat or coir and 1 part perlite. It is durable and long lasting (no collapse/compaction), fast draining yet sufficiently moisture retentive. Cacti and succulents require an even faster draining, less water retentive soil and many growers prefer an all mineral "soil" or an almost all mineral soil - just perlite or pumice and granite grit and sometime coarse grained sand. Others will add some bark fines as well (eg. the 'gritty' mix). Most sources will strongly recommend omitting any vermiculite. While it is added to provide aeration initially, once it becomes fully saturated with water, it too will collapse and any draninage enhancement or aeration is lost and it becomes a soggy mess that impedes good drainage. This long post, written by a container gardening expert, is the longest running thread on Garden Web (first posted in 2002) which should say something about the info it offers. It's detailed and a serious read but will educate you thoroughly on why the planting medium for any container growing is so critical to the heath and longevity of any container planting. Link - Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention